andber

I have a 9 MR with swift springs and cusco rear swaybar.

What is the best setup for camber and toe front/rear for me, using the car for autocross/sprints and some trackdays + alot of cruising on normal roads...

So I want a setup that will be fast but not eat my tires.


I am thinking of this setup

front:
-1,6 degrees camber
0,5 toe-in

rear:
-1,2 degrees camber
0,5 toe-in

What effect will this have on the handling?

19psi

iTrader: (6)

IMO, swift springs aren't up to the task of what you're asking them to do.
Springs are ok but once you start getting some serious track sessions, you'll be
dissappointed with your current setup.
If you're serious about tracking/auto-x, get yourself some decent coilover set up.

As far as alignment goes, you want to run maximum camber in the front.
Ask around in the motorsport section on the forum.
Most people use around -2.5 to -3.5 front camber and about -1.5 rear camber.

Now if it's once or twice a year you track your car, your current setup should be fine.

Oh BTW, you usually want a bit of toe-out on the front, not toe-in.
Your alignment looks like a good daily driver set up.

andber

I run about 15-20 autox per summer and a few track days.

Anyway, I will give the swifts a chance and want some info about a good alignment that will make the car handle well with my mods but not toast my tires when driving on the motorway.

What about the toe front/rear?

19psi

iTrader: (6)

rear toe looks good but you might wanna run a tad of toe-out in the front
toe-out of .05

wrcwannabe

iTrader: (1)

I would go with -2 degrees up front and zero toe. Out back -1 degree and zero toe.

This will be very good on the course as well as the highway.

If you want a little bit more turn in use a tiny bit of toe out up front. Don not over do this. 1/16" is more than enough.

If you have an adjustable rear bar, set it at the stiffest setting. If you havent already done so, get the Whiteline front sway bar bushings and bump steer correction kit.

The springs you have are too soft for controlling the weight transfer. If you dont want to go much stiffer, then use a larger front bar to keep it from rolling over onto the front outside.

Technique wise it is actually better to get the rear end to slide out a little as this reduces the weight transfer to the front outside, and keeps the front end flatter. You'll have to drive the car very differently to do this. Look up chronohunter and Warrtalon 's threads on getting the car to handle better on the autox course.

Milburn

boomn29

iTrader: (47)

I was told -1.5 front camber and -1 rear camber. And just zero out the toe.

I'm running Swifts and a rear swaybar as well. I ended up with -1.5 camber all around since are stock setup doesn't offer a lot of adjustability.
A lot of people knock springs, but definitely give them a chance. Swifts are a big upgrade from stock, and it takes a lot to progress past the abilty of the car's stock suspension anyways.

I've read it so many times and I agree - it's much better to learn the stock setup before upgrading. My .02...

belizelittle39439

iTrader: (4)

I ended up doing -1.9 camber up front and -1.4 in the rear; zero'd out the toe all around.

It really is a matter of preference and trial and error. Car runs well with those settings it seems.

spdracerut

iTrader: (2)

For a street driven car I'd shoot for around -2.0 camber in the front, with zero-toe or maybe a hair of toe-in. Toe-out is great for the track, but it'll chew up the inside of your tires much faster than running negative camber.

boostinpsi

id run max neg camber in the front with 0 cross and then -1 in the rear. this will let the backend come out a little more. if its too loose bump to like -1.2 or -1.3.

a tiny bit of toe out up front and toe in in back will help turn in but will eat tires so id just go 0 toe all the way around if its not a dedicated track car.