LilJapnBoy

iTrader: (6)

Looking for alignment spec suggestions. Will be bringing it in for a custom alignment next week after putting in coilovers. Particularly looking on camber degree suggestions as toe will probably be set to 0.

Currently running BC Racing Coilovers (inverted) with 10k/8k spring rates.
Don't know exact riding height but did drop additional 3/4" from what they were preset at upon installation.

I'm looking for an alignment that will be a little aggressive but not kill the tire wear. Evo is a weekend track car but still daily driveable.

Leaning toward a -3 degree in the front, -2 degree in the back or -2.5 front/-1.5 back. Thoughts?

puckadog

iTrader: (4)

-2.5fr./-1.5 back
that's the allignment i've been using all summer on my car for track days and seems to be a good compromise 'cause i drive my car to the track

19psi

iTrader: (6)

If it's you DD, I wouldnt go past -2 in the front and -1 or -1.5 in the rear.
0 toe in the front and a bit of toe-in in the rear will give you a bit more stable ride.

BTW, make sure you check your tire wear frequently and rotate your tires every 5k miles.

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

^+1

I'm running -1.9f/-1.4 rear w/zero toe all the way around. The front eccentric camber bolts are nice if someone doesn't have coilovers. You should have a wide range of selection your setup but if it's your DD I'd keep it a little less-extreme.

evobeatsti

iTrader: (7)

i have -3 degrees camber up front and -1.7 in the back, the car is amazing in the turns. do 0 toe if you can.

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

I definitely wouldn't do anywhere near -3.0F if you are concerned about tire wear and it being a daily driver. -2.0R camber is way too much, too. -2.5F/-1.5R at the MOST, but remember that camber is only one piece of the equation. The first part you got wrong was your spring rates, which are backwards, so you'll need to find out how to manipulate other parts of the suspension to make up for that.

jkim2001

iTrader: (8)

Coud you explain how his spring rates are backwards? 10K/8K sound right to me....anyway, I am running 9K/8K with rear sway bar and I am doing fine at Nurburgring.

mrMTB

iTrader: (13)

For a DD, I'd take Warrtalon's advice (from previous threads about the subject), and do camber -2.0/-0.5 (F/R), and toe 0/0. (I am running -2.0/-0.7, and find it to be very nice .)

Perhaps you could tell us about the rest of your suspension modifications to help put this into perspective?

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

The stock ratio has more in the rear, and it's best to maintain that ratio. More spring rate in the front is backwards.

Doing "fine" at the Ring doesn't mean it's right. I did quite well on my stock suspension for over a year of tracking and autocrossing, but then I went with a race suspension (12k/16k), and it was night and day.

Smike

iTrader: (8)

And the front of the car is still heavier. Traditional susp. set ups will favor the front. Even if the Evo came favoring the rear changing to a front bias could get the job done.

I have the 12k/10k track verisons, -2.5/-1.5. The "trick" I have found to get the car to rotate is favoring the rear damper adjustment to near full stiff and have the front damper to about 3/4 stiff. And also running 36psi front tire pressure and 40psi rear (cold temps).

EDIT: Sounds like you lowered your car about as much (or should I say little as I did). I leveled the car so measuring from just infront of the rear tire and just behind the front tire on the side rails they are equal (aka no rake).

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k6...o/DSC00866.jpg

In the end, its in the hands of the owner to learn how to drive the car around the track.

LilJapnBoy

iTrader: (6)

Cusco Rear Strut Bar
Cusco V2 Lower Arms
Kumho MX (235/40/18)

Yes, I'd like to add a Hotchkis rear sway and go wider tires (235 were as wide as I could go without rubbing on my lowering springs).

Thanks for everyone's feedback. Perhaps I should have clarified a little more. I said daily driveable...meaning I still drive it on the street...but it's not my DD.

Basically I enjoy weekend track days during the season but unfortunately I couldn't do the track junkie route..yet. I'd like a balance, I'm looking for something a little aggressive so I can get optimum traction without changing tires every 5k miles.

I've done track days before on my lowering springs and was surprised that they held as well as they did. I imagine it'll be night and day with coilovers and playing around with the right settings, so I can't wait to to get out there and do some test'n'tune.

4cdndctn

iTrader: (8)

f: camber = -2.7 / toe = 1/8 out
r: camber - -1.4 / toe = 1/16 out

I have tried a lot of settings, so far this is my fastest (and no doubt wears the tire down most).

Erred in fractions

XK120

iTrader: (18)

Most important thing to do would be to get the car corner weighted. It's not going to help much listening to everybody's opinion on here as everybody has different driving styles. With that said, for a DD/weekend track car, I'd stay away from 0 toe all around. Put it to 0 in the front, but give it maybe a 16th of a degree toe in in the rear. I've driven cars with 0 all around, and while it's very nice in most situations, it makes things a little bit more unstable than I would like in an AutoX slalom. Don't do toe out unless you want to kick the rear out super easily. Again, get corner weighted above all else. Then worry about the alignment.

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

4cdndctn, that is HUGE toe out. I would NOT recommend that to this guy.

XK120, slight toe out has never caused my rear to kick. 0 toe all around works great and does not make the car unstable in any racing situation. I spent a whole year with 0 toe all around.

XK120

iTrader: (18)

Ya maybe I should have clarified, when I said toe out, I meant something drastic like what 4cdndctn posted.