Max Power

iTrader: (1)

I agree with this... but I don't think you HAVE to buy wide fronts or pull them. Plenty of cars have fit a 275 (or more) under the stock bodywork. In fact, I didn't roll or pull the fronts and fit 275/40's - they did rub the fender liner a bit, but thats it.

sponge bob

iTrader: (3)

I agree but mine only rub at full lock.

Not always, that depends on offset and actual tire width. My Kumho MX 275/40's do not rub the arms, actual tire section width varies for any given size so its possible but not always.

You will have to roll the rear fender lip, yes.

Now this is just bad info! I have a lot of clearance up front with stock fenders untouched. If you are running a huge front spacer then maybe yes.


As its been stated, getting the maximum tire inside the fenders is not a cut a try process, there are a ton of variables.

Here are two key variables I think get overlooked by some.

Some of the confusion centers around actual tires size, compare 10 different tires all the same “size” and you will find 10 different actual section widths. Some will be close but some will be very different. If one is barely squeezing in a 275/40/17 from brand K then a switch to brand T might result with rubbing issues. This is why you sometime here two different accounts regarding two seemingly identical setups.

Another thing a lot of people don’t consider when listening to other peoples accounts of what fits and what doesn’t is the factory adjustable camber settings. Set the front to MAX negative setting and the tire is now tilted in towards the strut housing thus decreasing clearance at the strut and increasing clearance near the fender lip. Depending on where you need added clearance this could help you or hurt you.

To make a 275/40/17 Kumho MX tires mounted on 17x9.5 38mm offset rims fit without spacers all I had to do was roll the rear fender lip and leave the factory front camber setting to minimum. They barely clear the strut housing in front. They easily clear the front fender lip. They barely clear the rear trailing arm in back. They easily clear the rear ROLLED fender lip. They do rub the wheel well liner at full lock. (but this only effects me when parking) They don’t rub anywhere else at any other time and I regularly see my suspension to nearly full bump at my local race track (a big dip on a high speed section of track).

Yes a shorter tire would rub the wheel well less.

If you are sticking with 17’s your next step down from a 275/40 is a 255/40, a very good choice! Plenty of rubber on the ground and you may not have to roll the rear fenders.

robi

iTrader: (24)

couldn't have said it better my self!
(and yes I have nto-3's with a 38 offset to work with the 255's with little or no mods.....

evobeatsti

iTrader: (7)

i have 17x9.5 nto3+m's with like a +43 offset (they were off a subie) i ran a 5mm spacer in the back and a 25mm in the front and had about a mm of clearance off the rear control arm (had to pull the balance off to get it to work) when i ran this setup i used some 255/40/17 A048's without rolling or pulling the fenders at all rear camber setting was -.6 -1.8 (i know i hit a bad bump) and front camber setting was right at -2.0

all i can say is i loved this wheel and tire setup and i was dominating race cars (thanks robi for the awsome suspension)

now i am running a 275/40/17 v710 on that wheel and had my fenders rolled, i also put on camber plates and am running -1.8 in the back and -3.2 up front. i have not driven these tires but i fit them in my garage and i can tell that they will definately rub the fender liner, they seem to clear everywhere else, i also had to bump up to a 10mm spacer in the rear to clear the control arm

hope this helps

if i were you i would go with a 17x9.5 or 18x9.5 and run a 255/40/17 A048 or like a 265-285/35-30/18

i loved the A048, has tons of grip even after like 15 heat cycles lol i got mine after at least 15 decent track floggings and i was owning pretty much everything out there through the turns

jbfoco

iTrader: (13)

Far from bad information, speaking from personal experience with R compound tires. But then again this is evom... i should expect at least one dumb *** comment.

Good luck.

evo ippo

iTrader: (40)

ok you guy tell me is this wired or not, i have the 17x9.5 nto3+m +38 (thanks robi ) running 275/40/17 hankook r compounds. when i had this combo on my car with the apexi evx coilovers they would hit the coilovers on the inside even when i set the camber bolts at max positive, i ended up having to run a +15mm spacer to clear.

but her the weird part after that i got DMS 40 put on and now the wheel and tire combo clears without any spacer at first i was like robi wont sell something to me says it clears and then it doesn't. anyone have this experience????

but in my opinion is you are planning on running 275 tires trust me the fender lining is the last thing to worry about your going to have to remove the fender lining, pull the front fender and roll the rear fenders, and people becarful not to ruin your show cars j/k but you should be fine with 255 though.

THANKS ROBI FOR THE WHEELS

jbfoco

iTrader: (13)

^^ bought the same wheels/ spacers from robi and we shared the same modifications to make them fit.

Still bad information??

sponge bob

iTrader: (3)

You just told someone, unequivocally I might add, if they run tires in the 275mm class then front fender modifications/changes are needed. That statement is not true. The dumb statement is to make a generalization without considering and presenting all the factors involved. Yes if your 275’s have a very large section width and you are using spacers or low offset wheels then you might need wider front fenders. But not all tires in the 275mm class are wide enough to require wider fenders so your statement is misleading.

sponge bob

iTrader: (3)

No, it was very good info actually. ippo gave a detailed description of his configurations and did make generalized statements.

sponge bob

iTrader: (3)

Seems the dimension of the DMS was very different to the Apexi, maybe the shock body OD was larger on the Apexi or the mounting tabs were a different configuration thus locating the strut body closer/further from the tire.

My question is this, when you went to the DMS and removed the spacers how was your fender clearance?

evo ippo

iTrader: (40)

ok lets clear something up i bought the wheels from robi with the thought of not using spacer because when robi post the group buy it said "nto3+m custom +38mm off set no spacer needed" or something like that but when i got the wheels i ordered my tires from frisby tires 275/40/17 Hankook Z211. when i went to put the wheel on to the car i realize it didnt fit so i went to get different spacer to make it work.

but as for the fender clearance my fenders where originally pulled to clear the apexi, 15mm spacer and the 17x9.5 +38mm so when i put the dms 40 on and didnt run the spacers it didnt completely fill the gap. ill try to take some pictures of my race set up and my street set up (advan rg2 18x9 +29mm, 265/35/18) so you guys can see how it looks like but as for what it looked like stock it beat the hell out of me

letMeIn

iTrader: (12)

you can easily roll front and rear fenders, so no need to buy wider. If you crack the paint on the fronts, you can always take them off and get it painted. With rears, its a different story so don't forget to heat up the paint, but I had much better time rolling rears than fronts. As for pulling fronts, the middle part of the fender is very soft and flexible and doesn't like to stay when you push it outside with a roller, at least thats what I experienced. I just rolled it to the max.

Also in some cases you MAY have to relocate the bolt that holds the rear bumper. It all depends what wheels you get and offset. But if you decide to go with 275s, you may have to.

I think going WIDE is well worth it. You will have to work around the problems, but once you done you will be happy. Good luck