BremBo Retainer PINS and CLIPS
#32
Brembo Pins and CLips
Well not sure if those work... i would love to try and find out but after the RIP off of 70 bucks for STI pins I'm not buying any more to test... I'm selling the STI pins on eBay or if any one wants let me know... they are NEW never used... LOL..
so PLAN #2 is to take OEM pins and grind a TINY edge into the pin just past the inside of the caliper... and then using thin C-Clips to push on to the pin... C-Clips are DIRT cheap buy 100's for pennies... so... loose them or break them so what... and the pins aren't compromised because the pressure is up and down not side to side... i had a metal worker and a cert mechanic that has been around forever look all of this over.....
we are going to be cutting the grove into a new set of pins i bought from MITSU dealer and trying them out.
once this is done i will let you know how they work, ALSO put up pictures... going to be a couple of weeks..
so PLAN #2 is to take OEM pins and grind a TINY edge into the pin just past the inside of the caliper... and then using thin C-Clips to push on to the pin... C-Clips are DIRT cheap buy 100's for pennies... so... loose them or break them so what... and the pins aren't compromised because the pressure is up and down not side to side... i had a metal worker and a cert mechanic that has been around forever look all of this over.....
we are going to be cutting the grove into a new set of pins i bought from MITSU dealer and trying them out.
once this is done i will let you know how they work, ALSO put up pictures... going to be a couple of weeks..
#36
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you can get them from the dealer, they sell the fronts and rear seperately.
This is a really annoying issue, I seem to lose my rear pins after a session or two.
A thought I had was to use aluminum foil or equivalent wrapped around the head of the pin (the part that squeezes to hold the pin in) to increase its diameter (increase squeezing pressure) or maybe aluminum tape over the top of the pin hole to keep it from moving or somehow increasing the effective rate of the spring clip to keep the pin from moving.
This is a really annoying issue, I seem to lose my rear pins after a session or two.
A thought I had was to use aluminum foil or equivalent wrapped around the head of the pin (the part that squeezes to hold the pin in) to increase its diameter (increase squeezing pressure) or maybe aluminum tape over the top of the pin hole to keep it from moving or somehow increasing the effective rate of the spring clip to keep the pin from moving.
#37
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I actually solved this last weekend. I took a new set of rear pins, grind a flat surface into the tip, take a tiny bit in a drill press, and VERY carefully got 2 out of the 4 with proper holes, the other two the bit went sideways and made the hole into the edge. Then went to discount and got their variety pack of clips...not the cotter pins but the ones with the ridge like |\/ (like the ones you find in racing fire systems), and now I have one on each rear caliper. I'll work on two more pins later on but this seems to work well. And walla, no rattle, no pads going poof!
#39
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I actually solved this last weekend. I took a new set of rear pins, grind a flat surface into the tip, take a tiny bit in a drill press, and VERY carefully got 2 out of the 4 with proper holes, the other two the bit went sideways and made the hole into the edge. Then went to discount and got their variety pack of clips...not the cotter pins but the ones with the ridge like |\/ (like the ones you find in racing fire systems), and now I have one on each rear caliper. I'll work on two more pins later on but this seems to work well. And walla, no rattle, no pads going poof!
I might try this the next time I have my pads out. I always felt "sketchy" about the bang out pins.
#40
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another solution.
Just spent the day at the track (buttonwillow here in socal#1cw).
Previous night I popped off the rear tires, popped the rear brake pins loose, put red rtv (silicon gasket maker, high temp) into each of the holes and then a bit around the head of the pin.
Tapped the pins in and then I covered the head and tail of each pin completely in rvt.
Ran the whole day (5 sessions) plus two sprint races.
Pins didn't move a bit.
Just spent the day at the track (buttonwillow here in socal#1cw).
Previous night I popped off the rear tires, popped the rear brake pins loose, put red rtv (silicon gasket maker, high temp) into each of the holes and then a bit around the head of the pin.
Tapped the pins in and then I covered the head and tail of each pin completely in rvt.
Ran the whole day (5 sessions) plus two sprint races.
Pins didn't move a bit.
#41
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Use a decent one, I was in a machine shop so i'm assuming I was using decent metal specific bits. Use one with a guided tip unlike i did or predent the hole so it won't shake loose and you should be fine. I'm surprised none of the vendors make these yet lol. DSM modding ftw
#42
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another solution.
Just spent the day at the track (buttonwillow here in socal#1cw).
Previous night I popped off the rear tires, popped the rear brake pins loose, put red rtv (silicon gasket maker, high temp) into each of the holes and then a bit around the head of the pin.
Tapped the pins in and then I covered the head and tail of each pin completely in rvt.
Ran the whole day (5 sessions) plus two sprint races.
Pins didn't move a bit.
Just spent the day at the track (buttonwillow here in socal#1cw).
Previous night I popped off the rear tires, popped the rear brake pins loose, put red rtv (silicon gasket maker, high temp) into each of the holes and then a bit around the head of the pin.
Tapped the pins in and then I covered the head and tail of each pin completely in rvt.
Ran the whole day (5 sessions) plus two sprint races.
Pins didn't move a bit.
EDIT: Or do both...hell
#43
i hate to bump and old thread but i need to go pick up some new hardware (pins and retainers etc.) and im looking to find the best way to hold them in.
a.how much does the new hardware cost roughly
b.did the c clip/rtv methods hold up at the track?
thanks guys
a.how much does the new hardware cost roughly
b.did the c clip/rtv methods hold up at the track?
thanks guys
#44
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delayed response. The RVT solution works great. The pins will absolutely not move if they're covered. BTW, my evo is track only so I beat on it. Dusted a set of hawk blues in the rear without having to touch the pins and those pads last forever.
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