says in post 1, but they are +38 offset... the front wheels will be running a 20mm spacer

 

I'm thinking maybe I should just find somebody to roll my fenders so I wont have to worry about it! I am going to start AutoXing in spring so I might get rubbing under hard driving conditions then even if I dont around town- its not my daily driver so tire wear isnt as much of a concern... just wondering how much shorter the tire life is with those camber settings... I can probably search for it here, but if any of you guys run lots of negative camber how many miles have you got out of your tires?

 

If you corner hard or AX it, you will get better life out of the tires with neg camber. Toe is what wears the tires out, set it to zero all around. I'm a bad example as I have/had 14 sets of tires for the Evo

 

^^^ wow! thats a lot of tires!!!

So I finally have these bolted on, and I am pretty dang happy with how they turned out! I have minor rubbing on the fender liners at full steering lock, but so far no other rubbing! Pretty good considering I am dropped an inch with 0* camber

 

Take a few pics if you get a chance.

 

Set the camber on the front using the factory bolts on the strut mounting collar. You should have about -1 degree on the setting with white marl pointing into the car centerline. Spinning the bolt head 180 to have the white mark point out should give -2 degrees. You will need to reset the toe then. Set it to zero

Match the toe in/out to zero front and back.

The camber on the rear is also adjustable using the the factory marked bolts at the inside end of the lower control arm and the toe link.

Try to get 1 - 1.5 neg camber. Too much will cause the rear to stick a bit much and too little will cause it to be a little loose. Same for rear toe. Setting it to the factory setting of ~ 1/8" toe in will help stability, but causes slight wear on the tires as they scrub slightly, and reduces the cars ability to rotate .

It is much better to set the toe to zero in the rear. This will allow the rear end to rotate easily, actually reduce tire wear as they are now rolling straight, and allow you to try different camber settings to test at the ax.

I use -2 up front zero toe and ~-1 out back with zero toe. The car can be setup to handle extremely neutrally using the softest setting on my 25mm adj rear bar, and will easily oversteer on the stiffest setting. Its fun sliding around but not the fastest way. You dont need a bar though. The factory one combined with those settings will be just fine.

As you can tell by my sig, I run the factory Bilsteins on my MR with Espilir GT lowering springs ( 1.2 drop front ) ~300 lb ~ 1 drop rear ~ 320 lb

I run 245/45/17 ES100's on the factory BBS's, no rubbing period. They are not the stickiest but they are great dailies and fun at the ax ( read a little slippery )

Let me know if this helps you.

Milburn