View Poll Results: Would you but Rota's
I would buy Rota's no doubt
264
59.33%
No they are too cheap
101
22.70%
Thinking about it
80
17.98%
Voters: 445. You may not vote on this poll
Let's talk real about Rotas
#32
I guess I am doing this thread becuase I am considering Rota's I mean for the price I just don't see a better deal. Now lets talk truth here. How many people do any of you know of that have driven with Rota's DD or Track car and have had any problems i.e., cracking etc. I personally have never heard anything bad from any of the people I know that have used them. Now they do copy other rim company's for style and looks but that really does'nt bother me that bad, but I do acknowledge that they are "knock offs." They are light but not the lightest. You can get them in so many colors. They do have to meet the same standards as any other rim manufacturer importing to the U.S. It is not the end of the day if you scratch them or hurt them. I mean for the price you can get 2 sets totally different styles and change it up versus getting 1 set and keeping it the same. I guess I don't really get why people get upset if people put them on their $30k car maybe for me at least I am a little more intrested in speed and handling, that and I don't think my wife would be cool with me getting $3k dollars rims, that's fun in vegas money! Now takes this thread for what it is I know people have different opinions but I am just curious what the big deal really is. I mean I have mostly Japanese and Bushcur mods on my car does that make it better than a car running Megan parts that is just as fast?
They are copies of other designs, but that has NOTHING to do with the decision making process in terms of whether or not it's worth the money to buy them. My thing when I was making the decision was safety. They pass standards of the big three importers and actually surpass the standards set forth by Japan...which oddly enough everyone nut rides for their exceptional standards.
It also helps to understand that casting < forged. But also that there are different types of casting which has it's own internal heiarchy of structural rigidity.
For what it's worth...I've got some Rota Boosts coming in by the end of December. I'm going to slap another layer of clear on them, and install them, and use them to drive around town. When I go to HPDE's, I'll put the forged BBS SE wheels back on.
#33
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these broken wheels you guys show, probably are from bad crashes, and if you had a different rim, if it didnt break it would get bent or still not be usable after the accident anyways. so either way you need a new wheel reguardless.
#34
I've bent a Rota Slipstream (those spoon knockoff ones) on my old Miata before, and put a dent in another one, all in daily driving, no track use. My friend's mom managed to bend a very expensive Volk Progressiv Spoke too, so that doesn't say much.
A lot of people hate on iForge, Rota, etc. because they're unorigional in design and the consequence it devalues the original. I'd be pissed if my $1200 Works got mistaken for $600 Rotas. Some people don't even know that rotas are knockoffs at all
If they had original designs, I bet a lot less people would complain.
Manufacture methods can be fairly misleading as well. There're different casting and forging techniques, each with their own strengths. Forged wheels can produce strong light rims, but they can be brittle. Enkei/AME uses a proprietary casting method that produces a strong slightly flexible rim that can absorb the forces that would bend/crack a forged rim, etc etc.
A lot of people hate on iForge, Rota, etc. because they're unorigional in design and the consequence it devalues the original. I'd be pissed if my $1200 Works got mistaken for $600 Rotas. Some people don't even know that rotas are knockoffs at all
If they had original designs, I bet a lot less people would complain.
Manufacture methods can be fairly misleading as well. There're different casting and forging techniques, each with their own strengths. Forged wheels can produce strong light rims, but they can be brittle. Enkei/AME uses a proprietary casting method that produces a strong slightly flexible rim that can absorb the forces that would bend/crack a forged rim, etc etc.
#35
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I've bent a Rota Slipstream (those spoon knockoff ones) on my old Miata before, and put a dent in another one, all in daily driving, no track use. My friend's mom managed to bend a very expensive Volk Progressiv Spoke too, so that doesn't say much.
A lot of people hate on iForge, Rota, etc. because they're unorigional in design and the consequence it devalues the original. I'd be pissed if my $1200 Works got mistaken for $600 Rotas. Some people don't even know that rotas are knockoffs at all
If they had original designs, I bet a lot less people would complain.
Manufacture methods can be fairly misleading as well. There're different casting and forging techniques, each with their own strengths. Forged wheels can produce strong light rims, but they can be brittle. Enkei/AME uses a proprietary casting method that produces a strong slightly flexible rim that can absorb the forces that would bend/crack a forged rim, etc etc.
A lot of people hate on iForge, Rota, etc. because they're unorigional in design and the consequence it devalues the original. I'd be pissed if my $1200 Works got mistaken for $600 Rotas. Some people don't even know that rotas are knockoffs at all
If they had original designs, I bet a lot less people would complain.
Manufacture methods can be fairly misleading as well. There're different casting and forging techniques, each with their own strengths. Forged wheels can produce strong light rims, but they can be brittle. Enkei/AME uses a proprietary casting method that produces a strong slightly flexible rim that can absorb the forces that would bend/crack a forged rim, etc etc.
As for casted wheels. These are the brittle and weak ones. They are hard and when flexed to far will break.
For more info search a cast(hyperutetic) vs forged piston. From what you saying we all would ditch our forged pieces for some casted up slugs.
Come on man please stop the know it all posting and only post what you have experinced first hand. Not what you thought you heard or read.
This is a very very common problem on message boards. Basically this type of postin has lead to this thread.
Sorry if I offended you. But face it you posted misleading and false info. I was a mod I prob limit you to the show and shine section.
#36
Ouch...but still very true. Casting can still produce a strong (enough) wheel, but it is not comparable to a forged wheel.
Basically:
Forged = strong and light (fully forged > semi forged)
Cast = not quite as strong and heavier than the forged version. (The heiarchy relative to one another is high pressure casting > vacuum casting > low pressure/gravity casting).
Keep in mind that most wheels are indeed cast wheels. Even BBS and Enkei's and the like that so many people recommend as alternatives. Gravity casting and vacuum casting are probably the most common and are what Rota typically uses (They pour the mix into the mold from the top or suck it in from the bottom).
I'm still going to sport the Rota Boosts though around town. Perhaps I'll sell them later on when I save up enough for the bling-bling wheels...but until then I have faith that they'll be fine. As an alternative and close price range you can get 5-zigens FN01R-C -- but those are still cast as well......
Basically:
Forged = strong and light (fully forged > semi forged)
Cast = not quite as strong and heavier than the forged version. (The heiarchy relative to one another is high pressure casting > vacuum casting > low pressure/gravity casting).
Keep in mind that most wheels are indeed cast wheels. Even BBS and Enkei's and the like that so many people recommend as alternatives. Gravity casting and vacuum casting are probably the most common and are what Rota typically uses (They pour the mix into the mold from the top or suck it in from the bottom).
I'm still going to sport the Rota Boosts though around town. Perhaps I'll sell them later on when I save up enough for the bling-bling wheels...but until then I have faith that they'll be fine. As an alternative and close price range you can get 5-zigens FN01R-C -- but those are still cast as well......
Last edited by belizelittle39439; Dec 1, 2007 at 09:26 AM.
#37
Evolved Member
Let me paint a different picture for everyone...
Rota wheel, cheap to replace if 1 got damaged.
Forged wheel, super strong, and wont break, but your; strut, control arm, chassis, etc. will take the shock, and those are more expensive and more of a pain to fix.
Rota wheel, cheap to replace if 1 got damaged.
Forged wheel, super strong, and wont break, but your; strut, control arm, chassis, etc. will take the shock, and those are more expensive and more of a pain to fix.
#39
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to all the peeps that think forged wheels are super strong.............NOT REALLY
cast or forged they will crack...........
and some forged wheels are freaken heavy.............
wheels are peoples choice like shoes on your feet.........
i had several rotas before and no problem but the P45r's are freaken heavy........
cast or forged they will crack...........
and some forged wheels are freaken heavy.............
wheels are peoples choice like shoes on your feet.........
i had several rotas before and no problem but the P45r's are freaken heavy........
#41
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Curious about Forged Line wheels? Anyone in the Evo world run them?
We was running these on Mustangs in the mid 90's. Super light, super strong.
Also note that forged wheels can use different alloys of aluminum. Nothing like using 7075. That stuff is awesome. I and all other RC racers use it to make our parts with.
Forged stuff is more apt to bend and roll in to ball of alloy vs cracking.
Find me one cracked forged rim. That is one that is not bent nearly in half then stress cracked.
Funny thing is I work with so much different kinds of aluminum. Some you can not bend in a 90 with out cracking. Others can be folded over and not crack.
Back on topic, How much do the p45r's weigh? When I take them off this winter for a polish job I will scale one with a tire.
We was running these on Mustangs in the mid 90's. Super light, super strong.
Also note that forged wheels can use different alloys of aluminum. Nothing like using 7075. That stuff is awesome. I and all other RC racers use it to make our parts with.
Forged stuff is more apt to bend and roll in to ball of alloy vs cracking.
Find me one cracked forged rim. That is one that is not bent nearly in half then stress cracked.
Funny thing is I work with so much different kinds of aluminum. Some you can not bend in a 90 with out cracking. Others can be folded over and not crack.
Back on topic, How much do the p45r's weigh? When I take them off this winter for a polish job I will scale one with a tire.
#43
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ive had 3sets and havent had a problem with them. i like them alot really. I cant see paying out 1500 on a set of volks that are just a light and is goign to crub the same way! LOL
#45
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If the attraction to Rota's is due to being functional at a low price. Why not just stick with the "cheaper" option of staying on the very functional stock rims?
If the reason is to have a different look to your car (ie. bling), then you are not achieving that either, since they are lower quality than the OEM equipment that you already have.
Everyone made very good points, and these are only my opinions. But isn't the point of modding is to upgrade?
If the reason is to have a different look to your car (ie. bling), then you are not achieving that either, since they are lower quality than the OEM equipment that you already have.
Everyone made very good points, and these are only my opinions. But isn't the point of modding is to upgrade?