Whiteline Roll Center Correction kit--need some help
#31
OP - How did you get the balljoints to finally set in?
well, I had the same issue, the freakin stock balljoint ripped a piece of the raised lip at the lower balljoint coming out. I don't think the lip does much than to keep dirt out and I will grease it up after on the car to keep shizz out...All I can do, I suppose....
I am not sure my wrc balljoint is fully seated as well. The freakin thing goes in at an angle and pressing it in with a 10 ton press sucked. The snap rings go in smoothly on the front, the rear are still suspect - heck, I even spent 27 bux buying a special mitsu balljoint tool to push the wrc balljoint in, but that lip (which ripped off halfway) did not allow for it to push it in fully. Time to take it to a shop just to make sure....
Pretty frustrated with the wrc balljoints.... UNG!
All of the other whiteline bushings (I did the whole flippin car, yesterday) went halfway decently well, but they were ****** coming out - the steel collars seem to rust up and hard to press out. The collars all need cut with a sawzall and then hammered out with a screwdriver. Also, aluminium shavings seem to come out as mentioned above.
Bushings are by far the worst project I have taken on with this car, I tell you! Probably coz my car is in the rust capital of the world, aka Iowa and this car has been driven in gravel for 3 years day in and out...
Anyways, I am *****ing.
well, I had the same issue, the freakin stock balljoint ripped a piece of the raised lip at the lower balljoint coming out. I don't think the lip does much than to keep dirt out and I will grease it up after on the car to keep shizz out...All I can do, I suppose....
I am not sure my wrc balljoint is fully seated as well. The freakin thing goes in at an angle and pressing it in with a 10 ton press sucked. The snap rings go in smoothly on the front, the rear are still suspect - heck, I even spent 27 bux buying a special mitsu balljoint tool to push the wrc balljoint in, but that lip (which ripped off halfway) did not allow for it to push it in fully. Time to take it to a shop just to make sure....
Pretty frustrated with the wrc balljoints.... UNG!
All of the other whiteline bushings (I did the whole flippin car, yesterday) went halfway decently well, but they were ****** coming out - the steel collars seem to rust up and hard to press out. The collars all need cut with a sawzall and then hammered out with a screwdriver. Also, aluminium shavings seem to come out as mentioned above.
Bushings are by far the worst project I have taken on with this car, I tell you! Probably coz my car is in the rust capital of the world, aka Iowa and this car has been driven in gravel for 3 years day in and out...
Anyways, I am *****ing.
#32
The most frustrating part of the installs for me, was the c-clips until I got the tool. The other part was the rear bump steer kit scratching up my car underneath because the ridges that are cut into the ends of the inner cylinder.
The pressing was a PITA in terms of getting them to set completely without breaking stuff. Once there though you just clip em and move on.
The pressing was a PITA in terms of getting them to set completely without breaking stuff. Once there though you just clip em and move on.
#34
Well...you simply have to press it in until it goes in no further. Just continue to press it until you can dig out all the aluminum shavings and get that snap ring on there. When I said breaking stuff I was breaking other things (cheap tools).
The piece of the ring that broke off the lower arm is no big deal, there's no functional purpose as far as supporting the ball joint goes.
The piece of the ring that broke off the lower arm is no big deal, there's no functional purpose as far as supporting the ball joint goes.
#35
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OP - How did you get the balljoints to finally set in?
well, I had the same issue, the freakin stock balljoint ripped a piece of the raised lip at the lower balljoint coming out. I don't think the lip does much than to keep dirt out and I will grease it up after on the car to keep shizz out...All I can do, I suppose....
well, I had the same issue, the freakin stock balljoint ripped a piece of the raised lip at the lower balljoint coming out. I don't think the lip does much than to keep dirt out and I will grease it up after on the car to keep shizz out...All I can do, I suppose....
#37
Whew, good to know, guys. I know the dealership is waiting to have teh buttsecs with me if I had to order that lower control arm. Man, stuff is expensive for the Evo. I wish someone made replacement balljoints. Its insane how we are expected to replace the whole arm if the balljoint goes. Get expensive for those who race a lot, I'm sure!
#39
Yeah, I don't need a set now, I was commenting on the lack of balljoint availability
Nagisa is the only one for the front and per Robi after a while they can bend easily and should not be used on a daily driver.
Nagisa is the only one for the front and per Robi after a while they can bend easily and should not be used on a daily driver.
#42
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man I cant even get the old ball joint out with my 12 ton press. sounds like its about to break. I did take the original aluminum c clip out also. sounds dumb but which way are you supposed to press it out from???????
#44
you push it downwards - yeah, mine were seized in pretty good too. Also, they sit at an angle, so you need to put pressure at an angle....
Yeah, when you put the RCA balljoint in, you'll see that lip is sorta useless, it probably keeps dust and such from getting in, I plan on adding some grease to mine or heck even a bead of caulking that will come off easily, if need be!
Yeah, when you put the RCA balljoint in, you'll see that lip is sorta useless, it probably keeps dust and such from getting in, I plan on adding some grease to mine or heck even a bead of caulking that will come off easily, if need be!
#45
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ok cool...When that little lip broke off I thought I had ruined my control arm. So you basically press on the top of the ball joint. the part that connected into the hub assembly???