Evo IX Stock Alignment Specs?????
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Evo IX Stock Alignment Specs?????
I am so fed up in trying to find this....I've searched on here and other evo forums...read thru service manuals...searched on google.....so after an hour of searching I figured I'd ask.
I saw in a sticky thread by Trinydex where he posted specs but it didn't say whether it was for an 8 or a 9 evo....I thought I read somewhere that the alignment specs for the two are different.
Also, I do no tracking of my car...so what should I be set up for to optimize daily driving with out sacrificing any serious hard YANK ability?
Thanks to anyone who actually has detailed info
I saw in a sticky thread by Trinydex where he posted specs but it didn't say whether it was for an 8 or a 9 evo....I thought I read somewhere that the alignment specs for the two are different.
Also, I do no tracking of my car...so what should I be set up for to optimize daily driving with out sacrificing any serious hard YANK ability?
Thanks to anyone who actually has detailed info
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#2
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The alignment specs for the EVO 8 and 9 are the same on the stock suspension. To optimize for daily driving follow these settings:
Castor: non-adjustable
Camber: Front set camber bolt to minimum negative camber position about - 0.75 to -1 deg. I think arrow pointing in (can't remember it's been a while). Rear set camber to - 0.8 to -1 deg.
Toe: Set Front and Rear toe to zero for best tire longevity.
Castor: non-adjustable
Camber: Front set camber bolt to minimum negative camber position about - 0.75 to -1 deg. I think arrow pointing in (can't remember it's been a while). Rear set camber to - 0.8 to -1 deg.
Toe: Set Front and Rear toe to zero for best tire longevity.
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The alignment specs for the EVO 8 and 9 are the same on the stock suspension. To optimize for daily driving follow these settings:
Castor: non-adjustable
Camber: Front set camber bolt to minimum negative camber position about - 0.75 to -1 deg. I think arrow pointing in (can't remember it's been a while). Rear set camber to - 0.8 to -1 deg.
Toe: Set Front and Rear toe to zero for best tire longevity.
Castor: non-adjustable
Camber: Front set camber bolt to minimum negative camber position about - 0.75 to -1 deg. I think arrow pointing in (can't remember it's been a while). Rear set camber to - 0.8 to -1 deg.
Toe: Set Front and Rear toe to zero for best tire longevity.
if I set front and rear toe to 0 will that or could that hinder any type of (relatively) "hard driving/cornering" on the street?.....I would hate to set things up for my tires to last longer and then sacrifice out right cornering ability...(of course to a certain extent since we're talking street driving)
Thanks.....oh I almost forgot...I'm riding on WORKS ride springs if that matters...they told me it wouldn't
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For hard cornering on the street, 0 toe won't matter much. If you like to push it a bit and want slightly more front grip while cornering, set the front camber bolt for max negative camber. -1.4 to -1.8 deg. The car will turn better while still giving you decent wear.
#5
Da worst I need your opinion. I replace my stock spring to swift MR spring and it works fine with my Evo and I want to put in a bigger wheel which is 18x9(I got stock BBS rim), some people advice me to do alignment first before putting my new rims on, other people said that put the new rims on then do the alignment afterwards. So who is telling the truth? Can you help me?
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Okay so last question here....
my steering wheel is set slightly to the left...so when the wheel is set directly UP the car veers to the right...it may be off 1/2 inch to the left.....does that matter? And can that be corrected?
Lastly, from Trinydex's post he said the stock settings for rear toe was -3mm +/-2mm(0.12" +/- .0.07").....and the front was set at 0 toe...but from what you are saying setting front and rear to 0 toe would be fine and shouldn't hinder cornering.
At this point my front and rear advans have a 1 inch stripe on the inside of the tire that is more worn out...so I would assume that is because of how the toe is set....and maybe setting that toe 0 all around may cure that
Anyways thanks again
my steering wheel is set slightly to the left...so when the wheel is set directly UP the car veers to the right...it may be off 1/2 inch to the left.....does that matter? And can that be corrected?
Lastly, from Trinydex's post he said the stock settings for rear toe was -3mm +/-2mm(0.12" +/- .0.07").....and the front was set at 0 toe...but from what you are saying setting front and rear to 0 toe would be fine and shouldn't hinder cornering.
At this point my front and rear advans have a 1 inch stripe on the inside of the tire that is more worn out...so I would assume that is because of how the toe is set....and maybe setting that toe 0 all around may cure that
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Anyways thanks again
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#8
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jamsky: Do the alignment 1st, putting on new rims and tires won't affect you alignment. Wheels do not change your suspension geometery. That way you won't wear out your tires much.
matt6g72: To adjust the stock setup per side (L or R):
For the front: There is a camber bolt that changes camber between 2 settings and toe can be changed using the tie rods.
For the rear: There are adjustment bolts, one controls camber the other controls toe.
You are better off paying an alignment shop to set them up properly, unless you have alignment equipment, laser, strings, camber and toe plates, etc ...
CPA5: For a small/minor tilt it really doesn't matter much as long as your car tracks straight but is more of an annoyance and can easily be fixed on an alignment rack. The front tie rods would need to be adjusted after the steering wheel is straightened out according to driver preference.
Remember alignments are always approximations and you will never get perfect and exact values due to a variety of factors. Just get them as close as you can and enjoy ....
matt6g72: To adjust the stock setup per side (L or R):
For the front: There is a camber bolt that changes camber between 2 settings and toe can be changed using the tie rods.
For the rear: There are adjustment bolts, one controls camber the other controls toe.
You are better off paying an alignment shop to set them up properly, unless you have alignment equipment, laser, strings, camber and toe plates, etc ...
CPA5: For a small/minor tilt it really doesn't matter much as long as your car tracks straight but is more of an annoyance and can easily be fixed on an alignment rack. The front tie rods would need to be adjusted after the steering wheel is straightened out according to driver preference.
Remember alignments are always approximations and you will never get perfect and exact values due to a variety of factors. Just get them as close as you can and enjoy ....
Last edited by DaWorstPlaya; Dec 27, 2007 at 10:58 AM. Reason: spelling
#9
DaWorst--
if I set front and rear toe to 0 will that or could that hinder any type of (relatively) "hard driving/cornering" on the street?.....I would hate to set things up for my tires to last longer and then sacrifice out right cornering ability...(of course to a certain extent since we're talking street driving)
Thanks.....oh I almost forgot...I'm riding on WORKS ride springs if that matters...they told me it wouldn't
if I set front and rear toe to 0 will that or could that hinder any type of (relatively) "hard driving/cornering" on the street?.....I would hate to set things up for my tires to last longer and then sacrifice out right cornering ability...(of course to a certain extent since we're talking street driving)
Thanks.....oh I almost forgot...I'm riding on WORKS ride springs if that matters...they told me it wouldn't
Toe out your front and keep rear 0, you will feel different.
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