Jeff_Jeske

iTrader: (66)

If you search for Rotor Pros in the motorsport section you will find many folks have had great luck with them.

UT_Evo

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, any non-evo specific shop will say the calipers are toast and need to be completely replaced if they see the burnt ring... I had a shop tell me that here. What Cleve said is 150% true, with that setup, I see you having hardly any problems for very long events.

I only used track pads (DTC70s were my last set, not my favorite set though) front and rear and Super Blue ATE or other high-heat brakefluid... And they were more than enough for 20-30 min HPDE sessions.

DaWorstPlaya

iTrader: (31)

+1 ... I highly doubt you damaged your brake calipers. Most likely the pads are toast and possibly the rotors. You can try replacing the pads 1st to make sure it is only the pads before you replace the rotors ...

Jeff_Jeske

iTrader: (66)

Well after I had metal on metal contact my rotors looked like this:



Now I religiously check my pads before and after every session. As another precaution if I'm not slicing and dicing with someone I'll take mid session cool down lap just for grins.

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

Yeah, you can score a full set (all 4 corners) of rotorpros for under $300. Don't get painted ones if you plan on tracking the car. The paint just burns off in the first two sessions, and you will have painted wheel wells.

l8r)

4Trouble

There is no 07 evo in the states, but there are in Japan and Hong Kong -) Unfortunately mine isn't IX MR RS (9.5 RS) though.

The brake had air trapped in and fluid level was low once, then it felt like pedal was the trigger for some manual air pump for sporting goods. Had the lines bled and fluid refilled, it ran fine for the day. The next day went fine as well, but I started to feel fade pretty badly so I decided to go back to the pit. I did push hard on the car which wasn't really smart when the brakes were starting to fade. Then before a sharp turn (kind of 150 degree turn where I have to brake down to 2nd gear) the car didn't slow down so I pressed all the way down. That helped a little but still no way enough I will slow down enough in time. I deliberately threw the car around by swerving so I will spin out but on the grass it skidded much more than I was hoping and skid to a pebbled area. The pebbles were light and hollow but very rough and tough. Quite a lot of them got jammed in the calipers as well as 'sanding' down the exterior. I need to goto the shop and take a look myself, perhaps they damaged the pistons bad?

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

You are correct, not very smart to push a car with fading brakes, especially when there's nothing but your own **** on the line....

If you are ever in that situation again (minus the pushing a car with fading brakes, hopefully), pump your brakes, don't just stand on them.

l8r)

4Trouble

Only problem is though, the brakes weren't locking, so ABS modulation won't really help much in that situation, kinda like on ice. The rear brakes did have tiny bit of pad material left, should've gone for the e-brake, but as I said, I'm still inexperienced -)

apex electric

Road Racing is very expensive. Your stock brakes will not last trying to slow down a 3200lb vehicle. You can not switch pad material without changing rotors. Vented racing rotors will improve stopping but only for several laps. Unless your willing to spend $12,000 on Brembo endurance racing brakes you will not be able to run 100% for 30 minutes. Change your braking style. Brake earlier (which will allow you to make proper down shifts) and longer. Diving in at maximum speed will eat your pads very quickly. They sell Evo's cheap which allows many people to run them. Evo's can attain Porsche level performance at a fraction of the price, but the cost of performance road racing an evolution is just as expensive. If you want to road race buy a real race car ie formula ford, sports racer or a tube frame machine ( or Skip Barber). Save your Evo for driving in the country. Its a street car. Do as I say not as I do!! #101 ST-2 NASA Super Touring Evolution. My 3 day weekend cost running a 350hp ST Evo is around $3500. When choosing rotors learn that real racing rotors are milled not cast (show rotors). Also remove your front license plate that will block air to the left front rotor. Air Air Air.. But even the AMS kit doesn,t provide enough air with 2" hoses. Limitations are part of modifying street cars. Evo's were designed to win Group N rally not run on road racing tracks with straights leading into heavy braking zones lap after lap. Classic example, you can run the old 17 mile north Nurburgring in Germany all day and never change your pads. It's fast and flowing with no heavy braking needed. But, try to run 4 laps on the new Formula 1 course and the brakes will be gone.

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

I think you really need to qualify that statement. I have had no problems with my brakes (stock brembos, various pads) running 30 to 40 minutes on street tires. I could see the benefit of upgrading if you're running significantly larger and stickier tires, but not of anything near stock size.

4trouble: when your brakes fade, pumping the brake pedal is not to simulate ABS, it is to try to get more brake pressure (think of it like pumping the brake pedal when you're bleeding your brakes). If you're in the early stages of brake fade, it will usually work for at least one corner ... usually.

l8r)

broddey

iTrader: (5)

Innaccurate. The stock brakes perform flawlessly with good fluid, if your technique is up to par. Understand this: you will destroy any brake pad and cook the fluid if you brake too early and to softly. High performance brakes (stock on our cars) are designed to last under conditions when the driver brakes hard and quickly, minimizing heat soak.

You don't need a $12k brake system, you need to spend the money on driving school. I have been to 3 autocrosses and some extremely spirited driving around my area with long stretches to 90 degree turns, decreasing radius turns, and so on. I have never had an issue with the stock brakes with Motul fluid, and I engage the ABS on EVERY decel.

Keep your stock brakes, there is a reason why racing teams don't mess with them (albeit on tighter tracks)

broddey

iTrader: (5)

If you really want to tear something up and/or kill yourself, pull the e-brake on a track.

Do yourself a favor, go to racing school.

GTLocke13

iTrader: (1)

None of which puts anywhere near the strain on your brakes that just a couple of laps on a track will. The stock brake pads are designed to be quiet and to work in cold temperatures. They're not designed for the extended high temperatures that you'll see on the track, especially if you run race tires.

Get a set of dedicated track pads, and swap them out when you get there. It's easy to do on the Evo. Get ready to replace rotors as necessary, racing ain't cheap (however, read that StopTech article I posted earlier, it has some great information). Run DOT 4 or DOT 5 fluid if you're doing extended sessions. DOT 3 fluid isn't designed for race conditions. When you boil DOT 3 fluid, you permanently reduce its boiling point, so it'll boil that much more easily the next time.

Jeff_Jeske

iTrader: (66)

Sounds like this guy did ALOT of damage to his car. I was at Road America once and a 350Z went off into the stones. All four rims were damaged (stone blasted) and the paint up to the door handle on the passenger side was ruined.

I feel for you buddy...... but I would still like to see some pics!!!!

theshadow

I feel your brake woes here too...the stock brakes just aren't up for tracking.

I've tried tracking with the stock brakes, got pad fade and fluid fade. Then I switched to performance friction rotors and PF97 pads. Excellent stopping power but still too much heat, which eventually causes the fluid to boil.

Aside from switching to high temp pads for the track, and running Motul RBF600 fluid, I'd suggest getting a brake ducting kit as well as getting some backing plates for the pads so they won't transfer heat to the calipers so quickly. Without the ducting kit, I'm still boiling the RBF600 fluid near the end of my 20 minute tracking sessions so it will be interesting to see what happens with the ducting kit in place.

Sure there's some improvements to be had with improved braking technique but ultimately the problem will always be heat dissipation. Only if you can get your brakes running at a stable temperature, within the operating parameters of the pads and fluid, will you have any luck.