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Curb damage estimate high?

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Old Jan 22, 2008, 10:12 AM
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Curb damage estimate high?

I hope this is the best place to post this but I recently curbed my car. I hit the front rim first which created a dent in the lip and then the rear end swung around quite viciously which more or less scratched the rim and knocked the camber in.

For issues I found, of course the two rims are trashed. I knew that there were issues with the ABS given the missing teeth and immediate sounds of ABS whenever getting on the brakes. I also knew something in the rear was bent as the rear camber was still off when I adjusted the camber approximately to the same as the other side. Finally, I figured I would have a bad wheel bearing on front, rear or both. Small scuff on front lip was only paint/body damage.

After taking it to the stealership, I was given an estimate of close to $4500. According to their service rep, this "included a worst case scenerio" with the following determined to be damaged:

-2 BBS Rims
-Front wheel bearing (hub?)
-Rear hub
-Rear Knuckle
-Rear Caliper (possibly bent/damaged but they weren't sure)
-Scuffed lip

1) With this damage and with thoughts of labor, does $4500 sound a little steep even for a dealership? It does to me but I am going to be biased here.

2) Can the rear caliper be bent/damaged from smacking into the curb? I don't see how the caliper itself could have been damaged.

3) If you lose any ABS "teeth," is this part of the axle or hub? I was under the impression it was part of the axle. I would assume they missed this if it is a part of the axle and the whole axle needs to be replaced.

4) Would a damaged knuckle cause issues with camber?

5) Would you personally have the dealership or someone else work on your car if it had this damage? I don't know if I trust any dealership over a good mom/pop shop for their work and cost but then I don't trust anyone but the dealer on the knowledge/expertise of an Evo. I don't know what to do!

Thanks in advance!
Old Jan 22, 2008, 10:21 AM
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try and get the car back to aligned back to factory spec, if you can not then you will have to replace parts.
Old Jan 22, 2008, 10:30 AM
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Post up some pictures. This is the second time I've heard this happen on EvoM this week. Guys gotta be careful out there.
Old Jan 22, 2008, 10:43 AM
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As much as it sucks, 4500 is about what a dealership would charge for parts and labor. Depending how hard you hit the knuckle, it may well have taken the caliper with it. Aluminum will crack so i would really inspect it. How critical are new parts to you? Searching on ebay i've found quite a few venders selling parts from totalled evos that looked in great shape. Even buying the parts new from another vender online may save you some cash instead of buying from your dealer. If you dont mind getting dirty, download a shop manual and get the parts you need and get to it. And yeah, a bent knuckle will screw with your alignment. At the very least limit the amount of adjustment if you could even get in to spec. The only thing you'll need to source out should be just be final alignment. Good luck.
Old Jan 22, 2008, 10:51 AM
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And another thing, don't let them replace your BBS wheels. I, unfortunately, was run off the road on new year's day, and had the entire rear passenger suspension (and subframe) replaced. The line item for the one BBS wheel was about $950. I was able to track down an entire set for about that...
Old Jan 22, 2008, 10:53 AM
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I smacked a curb a year ago doing about 20mph. I took it to a body shop for the repairs. I do not like going to the dealership for repairs. I had to have the rim repaired and repainted. The lower a-arm, the front lip and front undertray replaced. They found out after that the front crossmember was bent when they tried to align it. They then replaced the front crossmember. They could not get the alignment back into spec. The cost was $3200. I paid out of pocket because I did not want my insurance to go up. I sounds like you might have hit the curb harder than I did if all of those parts have to be replaced. I agree with thatguy and try to see if it can be repaired without replacing all of the parts. If the part is defiantly broke, replace it.

Having to replace the front undertray gave me a laugh. The body shop did not have a part number for the "zero lift kit" that is on the MR that was installed on the car when I bought it from the dealership brand new. I called the dealership and they had no idea what I was talking about. I brought my paperwork in to show them. They still had no idea. I ended up getting the parts from another Mitsubishi dealership. I just could not believe they had no idea what they were selling to me. All they knew was that they sold me a 2006 Evo MR. This is one reason I can not stand to go to the dealership for anything.
Old Jan 22, 2008, 11:10 AM
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Dealerships are idiots when it comes to Evos, unless they specialize in them. My dealership gave me some ridiculously low quote on my clutch when I called them. I had to explain very carefully that it was not a Lancer before they gave me something that sounded right.

Suspension work is easy. All you need is a good set of wrenches and sockets, an impact gun, and a BFH. The trouble you'll run into if you do it yourself is pressing all the bushings into the new suspension components. Of course, this would be an excellent time to upgrade all your rear bushings. Oh, and get one of thses.

(Yes, I could have tried to make the stealership stick with their phone quote, but they would have gotten the whole car apart before realizing that they had the wrong clutch, then it would have sat there for a week while they got the right one shipped, then they would have charged me full price anyway and it would either be just pay for it or get a lawyer and let my car be held hostage by my dealer. I just got a guy from my autocross club to do it for a much lower price instead. It about about the 50th one he'd done, so he knew what he was doing.)
Old Jan 22, 2008, 03:23 PM
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Thanks for the replies.

What if I furthermore add that I intend to keep my warranty for a while longer? Can I still do the work without any issues on the warranty? The booklets are in the car...otherwise I would look it up myself.

I can take the insurance route, but I'd hate to see it go up. I have a clean record with cheaper insurance.
Old Jan 22, 2008, 08:55 PM
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One accident shouldnt raise your insurance significantly. Thats not the point I wanted to make. Minus wheels, even a Civic will be 1000 a corner if you have to replace the knuckle, control arm, bearing, etc. As an alignment tech I can say honestly that it doesnt take much to make a car unalignable especially when you have as much aluminum in the suspension as we do.
Old Jan 22, 2008, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 4G63 4EVR
Thanks for the replies.

What if I furthermore add that I intend to keep my warranty for a while longer? Can I still do the work without any issues on the warranty? The booklets are in the car...otherwise I would look it up myself.

I can take the insurance route, but I'd hate to see it go up. I have a clean record with cheaper insurance.
Some dealerships will try to get out of warranty work if they know about prior damage. My ex sent her chrysler to the dealer for a bad front drivers hub bearing with the car still under warranty. They found out that it was in an minor front end collision and did the work only after a lot of tense phone calls (funny thing was, another dealer did the repair). Even then, they terminated the warranty with about 10k to go. Since you took your car to mitsu did they say weather or not your warranty would be affected?
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