DOHCtor

iTrader: (1)

A lot of track junkies do their own alignment because lets face it, we always change our settings and paying 80 to 100 bucks to an alignment shop 6 to 8 times a year pretty much pay for the tools to do it yourself.

I would get some slip plates for toe adjustment/reading

and as for camber you can pretty much find a camber gauge anywhere for a decent price.

I know the caster on our car can't be adjusted so I don't have to worry about that.

Adjusting the camber and toe for the front is easy, it's just a matter of getting your steering wheel centered.

I'm kind of stuck on the rear. If I measured the toe and it's at dead 0 I am still uncertain if it's correct because if the wheel is like this for both side / / then it would read the same right? So you would think you got the toe dialed in.

My question is; how can you tell if it's parallel? For example if I wanted 0 toe it should be | | or a little toe out \ / and vice versa for toe in. I don't trust the eyeball method to know if I got it right. Is there a measuring technique to check for this?

I would be doing everything on a leveled surface of course

Thanks for your help!

MR Turco

iTrader: (16)

for toe you can always measure the distance from the front of the rear drivers tire to front of the rear passengers tires and then the rear of the rear drivers tire to the rear of the rear passengers tires and make sure the distance is the same.

Does that make sense? it is rudimentary but it should get you in the ballpark or able to verify settings.

DOHCtor

iTrader: (1)

even if the rear tires are parallel they still can be slanted and even by measuring it won't pick it up. anyways, i got some answer on another forum about using the string method. ill try that i guess.

justboosted02

iTrader: (31)

get a laser rack alignment for toe one time, then you know it will be right and you can confidently make changes to the toe

DOHCtor

iTrader: (1)

this is what I got from a member on socalevo

DOHCtor

iTrader: (1)

I been researching on this all night. I like this setup, seems more easy.



His write up can be found here http://www.elantragtclub.com/elantra/id554.html . I would be doing it a little differently though.

Profoxcg

iTrader: (9)

guys, what is the best way to slide / move the camber plates (for the front)
when the car is sitting on the tires, and you undo the bolts on the camber plates, the plates still do not slide because the weight of the car... if I jack the car up, and begin to undo the bolts, the sturt being to fall out because you have the tires and whole stut assembly hanging for it... this makes it very hard to set my camber.. can someone please share their method? I do own a digital camber gauge.. and I was abel to do the rears of my car very easily, but the front is so HARD !! and I thought camber plates were meant to make things very easy.

My car was places on tiles to level my floor surface, but I didnt put any grease of salt on my tiles, so every times I changes the camber (rear) I went for a drive to settle the suspension...

I know I am on the right track but I need some extra help please.

cpoevo

iTrader: (1)

Heres a video on youtube on how to align cars. He also has CO install and corner balancing.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=sZoL1gaWedA

jid2

iTrader: (62)

Good thread.

I've been using strings for toe for a couple of years now with good results. I don't use the slip plates, I just roll the car back and forward between adjustments. That usually requires that I then reset the strings but overall it doesn't take too long. Maybe I'll build some slip plates...

For camber I just use a large carpenters square and calipers along with a little trigonometry!