OK on a wet autox track my IX rotates and slithers and feels like its a metalic extension of my will.

But on the dry I am constantly having to back down speed to get this thing to steer. Smooth is fast. But this just plain feels SLOW.

I have
245/40/17's re01rs
- 2.0/0 -1/0 aligment
Gtwork Springs
Whiteline rear bar set to medium

Race tire pressure is 38ft/40rr

I can hardly heat my rear tires on the course. The fronts are taking a beating.

I have been racing for 10 years and I am a little miffed that a car that is so spectacular in the wet can be this unforgiving in the dry. Do I have something screwed up ?

I am not in big so no coilovers for me. But I am open to suggestions ?
Should I go full stiff on the rear bar ?
Should I get upper camber plates and wonk out to 2.5-3.0?
Are my tire pressures hokey ? I could let 5lbs or more out of the rears and still not hit the arrow? but then I am pretty sure I will get even less front traction..

TIA Guys

 

I ran 35-37psi in the front this weekend. Seemed to help the more I dropped it.

If that doesn't savy you, try the rear bar stiffer.

I have a completely stock evo, and to be honest there were times the rear was dancing pretty well.

 

I just called GTworx/Racecomp. I am going to dial that rear bar up to full stiff for the next event. I think I may have let the pressure increase to 39/40 this past weekend so I will expeeriment with pressures some more.

Upper cambers may be too much coin for now, but I am going to check with them...

 

And you should drop it more. I found 32F/36R to be the sweet spot on asphalt. Oddly, every single person who's come up to me has been running 38-40 psi. I tell them to try 32 and they immediately go faster.

OP: If you have enough adjustment, try -3.0F/1.25R camber.

d

 

I will give it a try. 32/36 it is. This was a sealed asphalt lot so it was pretty darned slippery.

 

I guess you talked to Myles....but yeah try the rear bar on a stiffer setting and try the tire pressures listed above.


- Andrew

 

Well my opinion is your alignment is out of whack or your driving style is not tailored towards an evo. I have swift springs which are fairly similiar with my 25mm swaybar set in the middle. I can get oversteer on command. I run stock size RE01R but the principle is still the same. Running your bar at full stiff and running really high rear psi is not fast...it is slow covering something up. Only time I battle understeer is tight sweepers which can be fixed by some trail braking and getting on the throttle early to get the backend to hang out a bit.

 

had the alignment done last month had the bolts flipped and it put her at 1.9/2.0 FT and zero toe. Rear we went with 1.0/0.

I won the previous event by .5 seconds against 10, 7th ftd out of 105 cars. But I had to slow it way down or I would push push push. That was on a grippier surface (unsealed black top)

This weekends event admittedly I had too much red mist. But I still couldnt unstick the rear well or put heat into the rear tires. Normally I can do a tiny flick of the wheel to get the back to step a bit. I was sliding up front not slithering. This was on on sealed asphalt. I will try the bar stiffnes and the tire pressures.

I should mention that the car was tuned and my power output increased greatly, so the ability to be too fast was a factor...

Coming in second is not good enough for me

EDIT: Sorry I think I sound like a ****** in this post: I really appreciate the help guys!

 

I'd re-check the alignment. I had mine re-checked a couple of weeks ago and was amazed at how far it had changed ... granted I hadn't checked in over a year, but ...

If the other posted suggestions don't work, then maybe look into the following things ... stuff that I consider to be relatively low cost:
- trunk bar (cheap, helps keep your trunk from flexing)
- rear strut tower brace (I run the Cusco V-brace and am very happy with it)
- rear trailing arm bushings (I added these last year, and it made a noticeable difference ... e.g. less understeer)
- go with a smaller battery or relocate it to the trunk (I've got the stocker in the trunk to help with weight distribution)
- TRE rear diff upgrade (at $400 + shipping + labor to remove/install rear diff, it isn't super cheap, but man it does make a big difference)

l8r)

 

Wow I am amazed the number of things that I can buy for this car. Are we sure these are ford mustangs in disguise!!

Thanks LudiKraut. I am going to try to tune the stuff I already have (especially the loose nut behind the wheel). But if I cant get this worked out I will open the floodgates again

BTW Do you guys rotate your tires per event ?

 

I hate to disagree with you here, but i've found that to be pretty much a zero gain mod. The rear suspension is multilink, not struts. The shock top mounts don't move around much and even if they did, they don't affect geometry like the fronts do.

The one I would add to the list is camber plates. Once you go -3 degrees up front, it's a whole different ballgame. Even low speed push isn't an issue.

d

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe this would bump him from STU. Oh, and +1 for the uselessness of a rear trunk brace.

-Alex@ECS

 

I don't auto-x, so I don't know how a rear diff mod would affect classing.

As I said, I'm happy with the V-brace, but I'll be the first to admit that I don't have before/after data. Unlike most ppl though, I also lug the stock battery around in the spare tire wheel well, so I'll take any extra bracing I can get for my trunk. I also agree that getting more negative front camber will have a much more noticeable effect.

l8r)

 

Get a TRE diff!

http://www.teamrip.com/EVOLUTION%20R...20SERVICE.html

 

I don't think that anyone would notice, unless they blabbed about it.