Smike

iTrader: (8)

SS lines and ducts = great ideas (aka do it).

That fluid is way too expensive. Look into the RBF600 or Amsoil DOT4. I have been running the Amsoil DOT4 this season with great results (aka havent boiled it). I ran the RBF600 in the past. Worked well also.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/bf4.aspx

+1,2,3, or whatever on getting track pads for the track. Street pads for the street.

PS - DS2500s are rated to 1000F, HP+ are rated to 800F. Neither will do for heavy tracking. I see temps at 1000+F with ducts when I am pushing the brake zones.

I run the Hawk HT10 pads on Dunlop Z1 tires. I have not run the CarboTechs, but I know they are agressive. Everyone likes different pad setups. So its more of taste when it comes to bite and modulation.

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the input. Two things, money for the SRF fluid is not an issue, UNLESS it needs to be replaced as often as any other brand. Second, I understand that I should run a track pad and a street pad, however, assuming I ignore such advice, is there a good pad that can do both decently? I can stand some noise and I am not competitively running the car at this point, so I am willing to compromise on both sides. Just asking...

spdracerut

iTrader: (2)

Well, i have a lightly modded 05 pushing probably about 280-300whp. In my aforementioned 40F air temps, the Mitsu air brake guides, still have the backplates on the front brakes, and DS2500 pads, they held up fine at Streets of Willow.

In 80-90F temps at Buttonwillow, I was getting pad transfer causing a pulsating pedal. It didn't really hurt my stopping power however. In such conditions, you might be able to get away with DS3000 pads but I don't have experience with those on the street. I'd assume they need more heat to get up to operating temperature.

boomn29

iTrader: (47)

+1.

I have SS Lines, Air Duct Kit, Ti Shims, slotted front rotors, Motul and track pads. Whew! I bleed before every event.

Everyone has their pad of choice. I've used PFC01's and DTC60's as dedicated track pads and like the stopping power of both.

High_PSI

iTrader: (50)

Get some DOT 4 Break Fluid, problem solved. Some slotted rotors could help too.

EvoBZ

Definatly do stainless lines, fluid, and have track pads.

My first day ever on a track I was on stock fluid and pads and learned my lesson going into one of the faster breaking zones on the track (thank the lord for run off) ... since I've made the switch to new fluid, lines, and pads and have never looked back. At the very least I would suggest fluid and somewhat more aggresive pads if you really don't want to have to change them out for track events.

Changing pads gets fairly easy after you do it a few times, so overall there isn't that big of a downside to just have a set of track only brake pads.

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

EvoBZ, do you have a recommendation for a more agressive, non track only pad?

Another way to look at my issue is that I got 6 hard laps out of the stock equipment. I would like 15 hard laps (for reference I drive at Autobahn CC in Joliet, specifically these laps are on the North course). Will Motul RBF600, Hawk HP+ pads, AMS brake ducts, and Buschur SS lines get this job done?

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

I thought DS2500 pads were the **** until yesterday @ pocono when I started getting fade after a fresh Motul 600 RPF fluid flush. Checked the pads and they're almost down to the backing plate.

Needless to say I'm looking to upgrade pads before my next outing.

A buddy of mine with an R32, which is similar in weight to my EVO, recommended Carbotech pads, I forgot which model though.

I used the DS2500's for everything from daily driving to autox to HPDE's but I think now that I'm getting faster its time to upgrade to a dedicated race pad.

I've already got SS lines and I will only be running on street tires.
what pads would people recommend for the track?

Also I am going to need rotors too. I have been running the RotorPro's dimpled, slotted & vented one piece units and they held up well for about 55k miles.
I could purchase them again and be perfectly happy, but if its only a little more money to upgrade to a better rotor that will last as long and stop better I'm all for it.

Adam@MMS

iTrader: (7)

I run HP+'s, racing brake rotors, stainless lines and super blue fluid bled before each track event with a power bleeder.

I also however run 3 inch brake ducting with inline fans. I had to hack up the right side of the car a bit to get it to fit since the oil cooler is in the way but they make a huge difference. The 2 inch AMS brake ducting didn't seem to do much.

Really though for me moderation is the key, if I wanted to boil the fluid I could do it in about 5 laps I think. If you stand on the brakes with the abs pumping on r-compound tires each time you hit a braking zone I don't think any fluid or brake pad combination (short of some really expensive stuff) is really going to save you. My .02

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

Everybody always suggests the Motul, but it is a lot more expensive than the ATE fluid. I've had no problems with ATE fluid (gold, but I think it is the same as the blue), so it might be worth a try before going for the Motul. If money is no object, the SRF will require fewer changes.

Given that there have been some racers on here who have had the stock rubber lines rupture, even on an almost brand new car, I would definitely upgrade to SS lines just from a safety standpoint alone. I would switch between race pads and street pads, at least in the front. These calipers are extremely easy to swap pads.

Personally, I think the stock calipers on these cars are fantastic. I have a lot of track time on my car and have had zero brake issues. No fade, no boiled fluid, no problems other than the stock front rotors warping (I have PFCs now), and I've been at a number of events where people slower than I am have been fighting boiled fluid, pad fade, etc. I use the Hawk DTC pads and change the fluid every couple of events. Fresh cheaper fluid is better than old expensive fluid. I have used the Ferodo 3000s...once. I hated them. They had good stopping power, but they wore horribly compared to the DTCs. I got a day and a half from them.

Finally, keep in mind that brake wear depends a lot on driving style. If you drag the brakes a lot or use them too much, then you will go through fluid and pads a lot faster. Brake wear is definitely not proportional (inversely proportional?) to lap times.

I use Ferodo 2500s on the street and for autocross. They are okay on the street, but the stopping power of a real race pad is much MUCH more. Doesn't make sense to use one pad for everything unless you are just getting started with tracking.

AlwaysinBoost, if you run the pads down to the backing plates they will overheat/fade a lot faster than they will with more meat on them. They also will transfer a lot more heat to the pistons/fluid. I save my thin pads for shorter, less intense sessions, like when I'm just learning a new track.

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

good point about the Pad thickness Rich, I never thought of that.

boomn29

iTrader: (47)

Autobahn North isn't hard on brakes. It's a < 1.5 miles I think; and assuming stock turbo, you are probably only hitting 110ish. That setup is more than enough.

Keep in mind that bad braking technique and excessive trail-braking will put a lot more heat into the system.

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, thats what I really wanted to know. I think the track is 1.6 miles and Im not a professional, but my braking is short and hard with no dragging and little trail braking (abs was rarely if ever triggered). Yes 110 is about what Im hitting on the straight, I could get a little more out of it if I run past redline. I think I just ran 6 very agressive laps and it was too much for the stock components. I really would like to have two sets of pads for street and track but as an example the Hawk DTC-70s are upwards of 350$ for just the front... just a little bit more than the Hawk HP+ for all four corners

New questions now (sorta...),

-EVO8LTW, do you think that I would need to bleed half as often with SRF versus Motul or ATE? If so it starts to justify its price tag.

-I know I keep asking... but will the HP+ pads be decent on the track and decent on the street? I know I am compromising so I am just looking for competence in both of those realms not excepional performance.

-Lastly, is the AMS duct kit at 350$ justified?

ECS Performance

iTrader: (2)

No, don't use them on the street. Not only will they NEVER meet optimal temps, but they will squeal like there is no tomorrow (gets old really fast). Using a track pad at street temps is dangerous...period

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

The HP+ pad is termed from the manufacturer as a "street pad capable of track duty". I was thinking that it would be an issue on the track not the street.

Do you have a recommendation for what Im asking? A decent track pad and decent street pad combo?