cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

search button is at the top of every page "little billy".

http://www.albinoblacksheep.com/flash/posting

Jeff_Jeske

iTrader: (66)

Listen man.... I run all the same tracks as you.... Autobahn, Blackhawk, Gingerman, Grattan, and Road America. You need to fork out money for a true track pad. Its the difference between an excellent track day and a wreck!

You can get Carbotech XP12 front pads for $210. HP+ is not a track pad.

Instead of dropping the $350 on the AMS kit get good pads. You don't need fancy rotors or SS lines (more people have had problems with SS than stock).

As for the bleeding.... if you get the power bleeder like I recommended you can swap pads and bleed all calipers in 30 minutes by yourself. The hardest part of the job is removing the wheels.

dbsears

iTrader: (37)

I would definately listen to Jeff's advice...he's been to the track a few times

My advice would be basically what Jeff stated above. As far as street pads I would look at the Performance Friction Z rated. They one of the best ranked street pads out and are on the same level as Ferodo 2500's but are quieter and dust less. They are also leagues and bounds better than HP+. I still don't understand why people reccomend them because they are junk for their pricepoint/performance level.

If you are going to track an evo and drive hard you will either compromise streetability or track performance. Now that you know what it feels like to lose your brakes I wouldn't waste your money to gamble on it happening it again. If you say money it technically not an issue buy real pads. Dont waste money on SRF. RBF600 is plenty for what you need.

Buy some Carbotech, Hawk DTC, PF01, etc for the track and swap them in. Once you do once or twice it will become second nature swapping back and force.

Forza EVO 613

Stage 1 for any track Evo - more important (in terms of what is absolutely needed for the track) than anything else:

Stainelss Steel Lines
Motul RBF 600 / 660
Ferodo DS 2500 for street / track
PFC 97 or PFC 01 (personal preference) track only pad

Keep in mind:

Theoretically, PFC pads will lay down on top of everything prior, Ferrodos will not...

With this, your car is basically a track car already (because it is an Evo).

Thanks!

voidhawk

iTrader: (20)

I'm using Stoptech ST-40 calipers and 332 mm rotors up front, DWS2500 on all corners, and RBF600 with stainless lines. This setup works well for me as a DD & on the track as long as I keep my sessions under 30 minutes and I left-foot brake quite a bit. I'm guessing the improved cooling from the larger rotors helps the DS2500 last longer. Not the cheapest solution, but I'm lazy and it works for me on street and track.

For those who suggested using a dedicated track-pad; I've considered this too, but was put off by the manufacturer saying that a pad needs to be bedded to a specific rotor to perform correctly. For example, Carbotech says you need to turn your rotors when switching to their pads from a different one to get them to work right. How do you deal with that, change rotors too? Just curious. Quote from their FAQ:

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

Okay I cant ignore it then. Ill look into some Carbotechs or the Hawk DTC's. Some of these pads seem to be readily available in only the fronts. If I get a new set of good street pads (DS2500s or the PF z's) is it okay to only switch the fronts when I hit the track with the track only pad? Also, as I drive to my track (~1.5 hours) are the DTC's or the like going to kill me on the way down? And what voidhawk says is a little concerning, how do the rest of you bed your pads?

You all have been very helpful. Thanks a lot!

jdmdc2r01

iTrader: (23)

I track my Evo, and yes you have to change your brake fluid, pads, brakelines as well. The stockers just will not hold up. I use Motul fluid, stainless lines, Hawk HP+ pads, and slotted rotors. And they worked very well for many laps no brake fade. I do drive to the track so I use the HP+'s. Noisey but it works.

Jeff_Jeske

iTrader: (66)

I always drive to the track.... give me time to bed in the brakes! The only side effect of a track pad is very loud squealing. Its not preventable.

The other thing you have to watch is how much pad you have left. I accidentally killed an entire set of XP12s while at a full track autobahn event. I drove home with metal to metal contact because I didn't have another set of pads. (IDIOT! -- I probably should have went to autozone and picked up a cheapy set!)

I suggest swapping all four pads for a track day. You want well balanced braking and swapping the rears take no time at all.


I still don't think SS lines are required. I tracked the crap out of my 03 and my 06 has seen plenty as well. I've never had a problem with stock rubber lines. In fact most track EVOs still have the rubber lines. Most show EVOs have the SS ones!

Adam@MMS

iTrader: (7)

+1 I run HP+'s on the street and the track. I can change pads quickly but I don't want to do it at every track day. You have do all four or it throws off the brake balance. The HP+'s don't squeal too bad in the summer. In the colder weather I had to go to HPS's because of the noise but I don't track in the winter so it doesn't matter. As far as not reaching operating temperatures on the street the HP+'s stop just fine cold (really firmly actually) as did the HT-10's when I ran them on the street. I didn't notice any real difference with the HT-10's, I still wore through them in two track days. Will try the DTC's eventually.

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

Jeff, do you recommend the XP12 pad or something like the PF01's? Good street pad (DS2500, PF Z, Hawk HPS)?

And while I have your experience to draw from, are there any other pitfalls I should avoid when tracking my Evo. The brake failure was surprising so are there any other areas of strengthening you recommend?

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

I couldn't disagree with you more. OEM rubber lines deteriorate with use and lead to a squishy pedal feel over time in all cars. They also are not designed with extreme heat in mind. The fact that you have not had a problem doesn't mean that the OEM lines are not necessary. That's like the guy making 500 whp on a stock block saying that the stock bottom end is fine for 500 whp because he hasn't had a problem. As far as "most track evos still having rubber lines," it's probably true that most Evos that see the track have rubber lines...and street tires, and street pads, and novice drivers.

I went to a track event a few years back where a Mustang went off the end of the front straight doing 140. HPDE fatal accident. The cause? Ruptured stock rubber brake line.

The Evo has a history of problems with the stock lines. Look at the post below. CJ just won an SCCA race at VIR last weekend and Marty Grand, whom he mentions below, won the SCCA race a couple weeks ago at Summit. These guys are fast and are pushing their cars hard, but they are still running fairly stock cars in T2 without a zillion HP or huge sticky tires. If they can burst a stock brake line with their mod level, then any modded Evo should strongly consider the upgrade to SS lines. It's cheap insurance, if properly installed.

Jeff_Jeske

iTrader: (66)

My opinion is that the best street pad is stock. You can get them on ebay fairly cheap.

The XP12 and PF01 are very similar. Either is an excellent choice.

I'm no expert but here are two tips people have shared with me.

1. If you are running really hard for a few laps.... its a good idea to drop back to 85% for a lap just to let things cool down. Managing your car during the event includes conserving brakes and tires.
2. If you don't already have a harness then look into the CG-Lock. The thing works great and only takes seconds to install/uninstall. http://www.cg-lock.com/faq.html

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

If you would had enough sense and respect for the other forum members and use the search feature above before the "brake failure" you wouldn't have started this useless thread that has already been answered 100 times.


http://www.albinoblacksheep.com/flash/posting

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

^^ its the internet, relax. nobody was harmed by the making of this thread.

Adam@MMS

iTrader: (7)

Respectfully disagree. His brakes went away at the track and he asked for help. I don't care if there are 100 more threads created like this I will always answer them. After all, new people come on the boards with new experiences everyday, manufacturers come out with different pads, etc.... It's not like he asked which BOV is the loudest, he's asking about something very important to his safety.