voidhawk

iTrader: (20)

agree, I've been here for a long time and still learned something new from this thread . BTW somebody mentioned a "Power Bleeder" ... +1E90 on that making it easy to bleed your brakes. I just did mine this morning and you can do it by yourself so easily & quickly. The company is called Motive Products , you can use any of their power bleeders with a 1107 adapter for the Evo.

Anybody have an opinion on the matching pads to rotors thing? I've been wanting to try Carbotech for a while now, but it sounds like hassle to have the rotors resurfaced.

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

with regard to the power bleeder, what pressures are you using?

First time I did 10psi and it was very slow, tried 20psi the other day and it seemed to work better.

Adam@MMS

iTrader: (7)

I think I crank it to like 20psi as well.

PVD04

iTrader: (23)

I typically keep the pressure a bit lower as I don't like the idea of forcing water into the fluid with higher pressure. I've never had much of an issue flushing the system relatively quickly at ~8-10 psi.

-Paul

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

anyone have issues with getting air pushed into the lines?

the other day when I bleed mine I was on the last caliper and the bleeder started spitting air out even though there was still a good bit of fluid in the tank.

Also, how much fluid do you normally use?

One of those little bottles of Motul RBF600 is all I used and I still had some left over.

to the OP, sorry for jacking your thread.

voidhawk

iTrader: (20)

I do 10 psi for bleeding too, although it is a little slow. No problems with air getting into the system, even if there's air in the line of the bleeder, it won't get pushed in as it stays on top of the car's reservoir. Word of caution, don't over tighten your bleeder screws, I did and stripped the thread on the caliper which meant I had to get a new one for $500 ... yeah that was stupid ...

TempeRacerGuy

iTrader: (9)

for a good street pad with little green fade, I use Porterfield R4-S pads. I have used the Carbotechs and while they are a great brake to use on the track, they just chew up rotors too fast for me.

CEB Unit

iTrader: (6)

Please explain how these power bleeders work? I do it the old/slow way but I don't understand how these work.

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

No problem, everything so far has been helpful.

I have the Griot's one-man-brake bleeder. It uses compressed air but pulls the fluid through the system rather than pushing. Is this a good one to use?

How much fluid is required for a full flush? Is the Motul 600 okay to store larger quantities without degrading over time? I know its a plastic bottle but is supposidly stored with nitrogen in the bottle. Thanks again guys.

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

because he refuses to use the search button, and if had bothered to look at the "MVP Tracktime" web site, the company that put together the track day, he would have found this.

"Brakes and Fluid:
Most non-car people ask "How fast does your (FILL IN CAR NAME) go?" My concern is
often how fast can it stop. Your brake system should be in good working order with no
leaks. Brake lines are often made of rubber and rubber degrades over time. Make sure your
lines have no cracks. A good set of DOT approved braided steel brake lines go a long way to pedal feel.
Fluid should be new throughout the brake system. I've seen clean brake fluid in the reservoir
only to help owners bleed the old fluid from the lines. A brake fluid flush is inexpensive and
can save your life. Brake pads need to be at least 50%. Like the tires, these are the only
things truly stopping your car. Track specification pads are not necessary but recommended.
Talk to others with similar cars and track experience to determine what may work for your
car. Brake lights need to be properly functioning as well."

People need to get their heads out of their asses.

voidhawk

iTrader: (20)

The "power bleeder" pressurizes the brake fluid reservoir on the car, so all you have to do is open the bleed screws on the calipers and wait until no more bubbles and/or old fluid comes out (no pedal pumping or second person needed). I've used a "sucking" type pump before too, but I like the "pushing" type better, since the "sucking" type can suck in air bubbles right at the bleed screw (when opened), and then you don't know if the air is coming from the car's lines or from the outside. Either one works though, it's pretty much personal preference.

Jeff_Jeske

iTrader: (66)

The power bleeder is excellent because you hook it up and give it a few pumps then you can work on all four calipers without dicking with anything else. I just hook the hose up to bleeder (as seen in picture with pretty new brembos). I also see bubbles in the lines at time. No problem its not from inside the line its air getting sucked through the bleeder.

I normally use less than one can of brake fluid for a full flush. As mentioned above both ATE super blue and Motul 600 are excellent fluids that will last for months.

There was a question about swapping pads and turning rotors.... I never turn the rotors. I go from stock street pads to carbotechs and back simply by re-bedding the pads. I like to do three very hard 30-0 and three 60-0 stops to do that. Other people have different methods but that has worked great for me.

In summary..... brakes are the number one thing you need to worry about at a lapping day. Do not skimp out on brakes. You get what you pay for.

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

Thanks again guys for all your help. Hoping to return to the track this weekend with new pads and fluid for a more successful attemp

Adam@MMS

iTrader: (7)

Everyone else seems to be ignoring you so I will now do the same. Hopefully you will catch on.

Adam@MMS

iTrader: (7)

Aluminum caliper = soft. Glad I am not the only one who learned the hard way. Did the same thing, bought a used caliper to replace it.