Brake failure/ first track day with the Evo
Thanks
Jun 3, 2008, 09:01 PM
#62
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Since I need to get my car back to battle ready status, I am going to go with Motul 600 and Performance Friction PF01s for now and maybe get the SS lines and duct kit at a later date. Is there a place that sells them for a good price that you all recommend? Prices seem to be all over the place for the racing pads...
Last edited by Protostar1; Jun 3, 2008 at 09:03 PM.
Jun 3, 2008, 10:24 PM
#63
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Oh and because I am awake and keep thinking of new things to ask... Do you guys eat stock rotors with the track pads? Is wear less with something like the PF 2-piece front rotors?
Jun 4, 2008, 12:52 AM
#64
mate - I did the same as you did.
stock fluids - 2mm of DS3000 pads, no brakes... weeee what fun.
anyways I have flushed with HTX115 (elf) and all is good.
mitsubishi are fking nuts for using **** fluid on an evo, especially when good fluid is like $50...
pads wise I like the DS3000's but they dont last and tend to curve rotors
so I have switched to endless N35S's...
stock fluids - 2mm of DS3000 pads, no brakes... weeee what fun.
anyways I have flushed with HTX115 (elf) and all is good.
mitsubishi are fking nuts for using **** fluid on an evo, especially when good fluid is like $50...
pads wise I like the DS3000's but they dont last and tend to curve rotors
so I have switched to endless N35S's...
Jun 4, 2008, 03:30 AM
#65
Since I need to get my car back to battle ready status, I am going to go with Motul 600 and Performance Friction PF01s for now and maybe get the SS lines and duct kit at a later date. Is there a place that sells them for a good price that you all recommend? Prices seem to be all over the place for the racing pads...
Jun 4, 2008, 06:26 AM
#66
Since I need to get my car back to battle ready status, I am going to go with Motul 600 and Performance Friction PF01s for now and maybe get the SS lines and duct kit at a later date. Is there a place that sells them for a good price that you all recommend? Prices seem to be all over the place for the racing pads...
I would still do the SS lines.
Techna-fit SS lines $115 for all 4 lines (from my experience there seems to be two versions of the flared ends with the IX models. Some have the VIII ends and some have a different end. From talking with the Mitsubishi reps here the later IXs had a change in the line ends. No way to tell until you have yours off though...just an FYI...I would say 80% have the VIII style though...only 1 of my friends here had the other issue)
http://www.techna-fit.com/
For the future --
Hot Lap Motorsports Duct Kit:
http://www.hotlapmotorsports.com/pro...8&idproduct=77
If you search posts I have created there is a install write-up that I did for them. Great product.
Jun 4, 2008, 09:01 AM
#67
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Since nobody has directly addressed this, I'll throw in my $.02. Hawk HP+ pads are just barely enough for the Autobahn North loop. You will get some fade on the back straight, though. HP+ are not enough for Autobahn South or for the full track.
As far as brake fluid is concerned, I'm going to Castrol SRF this year. I was running Motul RBF600 last year, but I ended up boiling it at Autobahn's south course last year ... so I guess it's time to upgrade.
Another note on brake pads ... make sure that you get a pad that works with your tires. If you're running on street tires, then a pad like the PF-01 is probably too much. I ran PF-97 pads last year on the stock advans, and it was just way too easy to trigger the ABS. Also, be aware that some race pads will spew corrosive dust onto your wheels ... meaning that you will have to religiously clean your wheels after each event.
l8r)
As far as brake fluid is concerned, I'm going to Castrol SRF this year. I was running Motul RBF600 last year, but I ended up boiling it at Autobahn's south course last year ... so I guess it's time to upgrade.
Another note on brake pads ... make sure that you get a pad that works with your tires. If you're running on street tires, then a pad like the PF-01 is probably too much. I ran PF-97 pads last year on the stock advans, and it was just way too easy to trigger the ABS. Also, be aware that some race pads will spew corrosive dust onto your wheels ... meaning that you will have to religiously clean your wheels after each event.
l8r)
Jun 4, 2008, 02:16 PM
#72
I have a Motive bleeder but I've had big problems getting it to seal to the master cylinder. They sold me the universal cap that chains to the master. When I was at my last event, another member had a direct fit cap. Is that what everyone else is using successfully? I have a direct fit cap for my other car and it also leaks. Don't want to spend a bunch of money on yet another direct fit cap for the Evo if I'm likely to have the same problem. Thanks.
Jun 4, 2008, 02:42 PM
#73
I have a Motive bleeder but I've had big problems getting it to seal to the master cylinder. They sold me the universal cap that chains to the master. When I was at my last event, another member had a direct fit cap. Is that what everyone else is using successfully? I have a direct fit cap for my other car and it also leaks. Don't want to spend a bunch of money on yet another direct fit cap for the Evo if I'm likely to have the same problem. Thanks.
Jun 4, 2008, 03:00 PM
#74
^ Exactly... and its not that hard just a tight fit. Has worked for me and my evo friends for at least 30 different bleeds.
Another tip..... buy a turkey baster from walmart.... they cost about 99 cents. Use the turkey baster to empty the resovoir prior to adding the new fluid. This will speed up the process because you won't have to bleed the the old fluid from the resovoir in addition to the stuff in the lines.
Between the turkey baster and motive power bleeder I can completely bleed my entire brake system on about a half a can of ATE super blue. I rarely do a complete bleed. That is about a once a season thing for me. I normally add fresh fluid to the resovoir and bleed out the older abused fluid at the calipers. Once all the "floaters" are gone I call it good. I've never had a problem doing it this way.
Another tip..... buy a turkey baster from walmart.... they cost about 99 cents. Use the turkey baster to empty the resovoir prior to adding the new fluid. This will speed up the process because you won't have to bleed the the old fluid from the resovoir in addition to the stuff in the lines.
Between the turkey baster and motive power bleeder I can completely bleed my entire brake system on about a half a can of ATE super blue. I rarely do a complete bleed. That is about a once a season thing for me. I normally add fresh fluid to the resovoir and bleed out the older abused fluid at the calipers. Once all the "floaters" are gone I call it good. I've never had a problem doing it this way.
Jun 4, 2008, 03:40 PM
#75
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the first time i used the motive bleeder the cap was impossable to get off and I thought I was going to rip my MC resivior apart trying. the last time I used it there was no problem getting it on or off... go figure.
when I bleed my brakes i just do the normal rotation of furthest caliper from the MC. another evo driver I know who races a lot does the same and has no problems either.
when I bleed my brakes i just do the normal rotation of furthest caliper from the MC. another evo driver I know who races a lot does the same and has no problems either.
Last edited by AlwaysinBoost; Jun 4, 2008 at 04:55 PM.