Brake failure/ first track day with the Evo
#76
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^ Exactly... and its not that hard just a tight fit. Has worked for me and my evo friends for at least 30 different bleeds.
Another tip..... buy a turkey baster from walmart.... they cost about 99 cents. Use the turkey baster to empty the resovoir prior to adding the new fluid. This will speed up the process because you won't have to bleed the the old fluid from the resovoir in addition to the stuff in the lines...
Another tip..... buy a turkey baster from walmart.... they cost about 99 cents. Use the turkey baster to empty the resovoir prior to adding the new fluid. This will speed up the process because you won't have to bleed the the old fluid from the resovoir in addition to the stuff in the lines...
l8r)
Last edited by Ludikraut; Jun 4, 2008 at 04:56 PM.
#77
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For the power bleeder. I had trouble with the cap they initially sent me, it would not go on. I called them up, they sent me a new one and it works great. Also, the one thing that I seemed to notice is that it if the o-ring on the cap sits in brake fluid or gets brake fluid on it it doesn't hold pressure. I wipe the inside of the top of the reservoir before putting it on.
#78
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Well after a semi-painful install and fluid flush (after trouble with the air pressure puller I reverted back to the old tried and true pump the brakes with a friend ), my new set of Performance Friction Metallic Zs and Motul 600 feel fantastic! After a nice night bedding of the brakes things feel great . Better than stock and waaay better than that boiled fluid Ill look into track pads in the future but these PF Zs seem to be nice streeters. We'll see how things work in the future.
Many thanks to all of you for answering my questions! Its good to be on Evom!
Many thanks to all of you for answering my questions! Its good to be on Evom!
Last edited by Protostar1; Jun 4, 2008 at 09:58 PM.
#79
Powerbleeder works best though. Also - putting the Jomar Seal W.O.G plus (instead of using teflon tape) makes sure you don't suck air back in from the threads of the bleeder nipple. It's a rust colored paste / seal that you can buy from your local truck stop / hyrdraulic shop - around 5-6$ per can. Just slap one some in the threads of your bleeder nipple, let it dry for a bit and no more air coming in.
http://www.jomar.com/products/pdf/Fi...WOG%20Plus.pdf
#81
I do agree powerbleeders are the easiest way to get that fluid out - but sometimes, people want it now and have a local autozone handy.
Last edited by funks; Jun 5, 2008 at 03:35 PM.
#82
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I have a quick follow up question to this brake issue. After installing my new pads, I have a slight clunking noise right as i engage the brakes at relatively slow speeds (~15mph). It is definitely coming from the rear. The brakes work fine (better than fine actually ) but the noise is a little disconcerting... Any thoughts?
#83
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I have a quick follow up question to this brake issue. After installing my new pads, I have a slight clunking noise right as i engage the brakes at relatively slow speeds (~15mph). It is definitely coming from the rear. The brakes work fine (better than fine actually ) but the noise is a little disconcerting... Any thoughts?
#85
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No, usually I notice it moving at slow speeds in first gear (like traffic situation) with the clutch disengaged. I notice it most after I have gotten up to about 15 mph, disengage the clutch and then go for the brakes to stop. Not hard braking by any means. I hear a slight clunk from the rear. It sounds like there is a gap between the pad and the rotor and it makes a clank when they hit. Like I said, it doesnt seem to have a negative effect on braking (or anything else). I was just wondering if anyone else had the same issue. Also, I am 99% sure the noise is from the rear brakes, not the tranny or differential.
#86
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For stock replacement I like RB better
http://www.racingbrake.com/product_p/2043-311.htm
... and search is overrated. Every conceivable topic regarding the Evo8/9 has already been discussed on this board, but if all anybody ever did was search and not post from now on, this would be a very dull place.
http://www.racingbrake.com/product_p/2043-311.htm
... and search is overrated. Every conceivable topic regarding the Evo8/9 has already been discussed on this board, but if all anybody ever did was search and not post from now on, this would be a very dull place.
#87
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For stock replacement I like RB better
http://www.racingbrake.com/product_p/2043-311.htm
... and search is overrated. Every conceivable topic regarding the Evo8/9 has already been discussed on this board, but if all anybody ever did was search and not post from now on, this would be a very dull place.
http://www.racingbrake.com/product_p/2043-311.htm
... and search is overrated. Every conceivable topic regarding the Evo8/9 has already been discussed on this board, but if all anybody ever did was search and not post from now on, this would be a very dull place.
Anyone on the clunking???
#88
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http://www.albinoblacksheep.com/flash/posting
Give little Billy an answer he has 1 answer. Teach little Billy to search he can eat for a lifetime. Looks like little Billy is gonna starve.
Give little Billy an answer he has 1 answer. Teach little Billy to search he can eat for a lifetime. Looks like little Billy is gonna starve.
#89
http://www.cvrmotorsports.com/store/...roduct_id=1786
They are an evolutionm supporting vendor
#90
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you're so right..
..I for one prefer 2nd and 3rd hand information that somebody read about instead of experienced for themselves. Did anybody bother to search on the PF rotors yet? Let's see who can be the first to get good info on them.