Notices
Evo Tires / Wheels / Brakes / Suspension Discuss everything that helps make your car start and stop to the best of it's abilities.

Brake failure/ first track day with the Evo

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 4, 2008, 04:48 PM
  #76  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (17)
 
Ludikraut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: 41° 59' N, 87° 54' W
Posts: 6,224
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Jeff_Jeske
^ Exactly... and its not that hard just a tight fit. Has worked for me and my evo friends for at least 30 different bleeds.

Another tip..... buy a turkey baster from walmart.... they cost about 99 cents. Use the turkey baster to empty the resovoir prior to adding the new fluid. This will speed up the process because you won't have to bleed the the old fluid from the resovoir in addition to the stuff in the lines...
good one. I was just wondering what I was going to use to siphon the brake fluid out of the reservoir. Thanks!!

l8r)

Last edited by Ludikraut; Jun 4, 2008 at 04:56 PM.
Old Jun 4, 2008, 09:05 PM
  #77  
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (7)
 
Adam@MMS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Amityville, Long Island, NY
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
For the power bleeder. I had trouble with the cap they initially sent me, it would not go on. I called them up, they sent me a new one and it works great. Also, the one thing that I seemed to notice is that it if the o-ring on the cap sits in brake fluid or gets brake fluid on it it doesn't hold pressure. I wipe the inside of the top of the reservoir before putting it on.
Old Jun 4, 2008, 09:31 PM
  #78  
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Protostar1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 956
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Well after a semi-painful install and fluid flush (after trouble with the air pressure puller I reverted back to the old tried and true pump the brakes with a friend ), my new set of Performance Friction Metallic Zs and Motul 600 feel fantastic! After a nice night bedding of the brakes things feel great . Better than stock and waaay better than that boiled fluid Ill look into track pads in the future but these PF Zs seem to be nice streeters. We'll see how things work in the future.

Many thanks to all of you for answering my questions! Its good to be on Evom!

Last edited by Protostar1; Jun 4, 2008 at 09:58 PM.
Old Jun 4, 2008, 09:56 PM
  #79  
Evolving Member
iTrader: (4)
 
funks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Ludikraut
good one. I was just wondering what I was going to use to siphon the brake fluid out of the reservoir. Thanks!!

l8r)
Either that or just do it right - get a MightVac Hand Operated Vacuum pump from autozone - it's 29.99$ (it's in OEM packaging in their tools section). It has attachments for bleeding the brakes.

Powerbleeder works best though. Also - putting the Jomar Seal W.O.G plus (instead of using teflon tape) makes sure you don't suck air back in from the threads of the bleeder nipple. It's a rust colored paste / seal that you can buy from your local truck stop / hyrdraulic shop - around 5-6$ per can. Just slap one some in the threads of your bleeder nipple, let it dry for a bit and no more air coming in.

http://www.jomar.com/products/pdf/Fi...WOG%20Plus.pdf
Old Jun 5, 2008, 05:44 AM
  #80  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (41)
 
EVO8LTW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 4,603
Received 96 Likes on 83 Posts
^I've tried the Miti-vac suction route and it was frustrating because air gets into the line from the bleeder threads, so you never know whether the bubbles are from the system or not. When you push the fluid through, you don't have that problem.
Old Jun 5, 2008, 03:32 PM
  #81  
Evolving Member
iTrader: (4)
 
funks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
^I've tried the Miti-vac suction route and it was frustrating because air gets into the line from the bleeder threads, so you never know whether the bubbles are from the system or not. When you push the fluid through, you don't have that problem.
Jomar Seal WOG sealant is the brown stuff that they put on the speedbleeders so that it doesn't let air in from the threads when crack them open a bit.

I do agree powerbleeders are the easiest way to get that fluid out - but sometimes, people want it now and have a local autozone handy.

Last edited by funks; Jun 5, 2008 at 03:35 PM.
Old Jun 6, 2008, 07:26 PM
  #82  
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Protostar1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 956
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have a quick follow up question to this brake issue. After installing my new pads, I have a slight clunking noise right as i engage the brakes at relatively slow speeds (~15mph). It is definitely coming from the rear. The brakes work fine (better than fine actually ) but the noise is a little disconcerting... Any thoughts?
Old Jun 7, 2008, 06:56 AM
  #83  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (41)
 
EVO8LTW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 4,603
Received 96 Likes on 83 Posts
Originally Posted by Protostar1
I have a quick follow up question to this brake issue. After installing my new pads, I have a slight clunking noise right as i engage the brakes at relatively slow speeds (~15mph). It is definitely coming from the rear. The brakes work fine (better than fine actually ) but the noise is a little disconcerting... Any thoughts?
Is it after you've changed direction, like if you put the brakes on after having backed up? I think that's normal.
Old Jun 7, 2008, 01:55 PM
  #84  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
 
cfdfireman1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Chicago
Posts: 4,165
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
yes buy them

Originally Posted by Protostar1
Oh and because I am awake and keep thinking of new things to ask... Do you guys eat stock rotors with the track pads? Is wear less with something like the PF 2-piece front rotors?
PF makes the best rotors out, and don't search what ever you do.
Old Jun 7, 2008, 03:28 PM
  #85  
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Protostar1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 956
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
Is it after you've changed direction, like if you put the brakes on after having backed up? I think that's normal.
No, usually I notice it moving at slow speeds in first gear (like traffic situation) with the clutch disengaged. I notice it most after I have gotten up to about 15 mph, disengage the clutch and then go for the brakes to stop. Not hard braking by any means. I hear a slight clunk from the rear. It sounds like there is a gap between the pad and the rotor and it makes a clank when they hit. Like I said, it doesnt seem to have a negative effect on braking (or anything else). I was just wondering if anyone else had the same issue. Also, I am 99% sure the noise is from the rear brakes, not the tranny or differential.
Old Jun 7, 2008, 03:29 PM
  #86  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (20)
 
voidhawk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 891
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
For stock replacement I like RB better

http://www.racingbrake.com/product_p/2043-311.htm

... and search is overrated. Every conceivable topic regarding the Evo8/9 has already been discussed on this board, but if all anybody ever did was search and not post from now on, this would be a very dull place.
Old Jun 7, 2008, 05:02 PM
  #87  
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Protostar1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 956
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by voidhawk
For stock replacement I like RB better

http://www.racingbrake.com/product_p/2043-311.htm

... and search is overrated. Every conceivable topic regarding the Evo8/9 has already been discussed on this board, but if all anybody ever did was search and not post from now on, this would be a very dull place.
When I do go for rotors, I will probably stick with Performance Friction (650 for the front pair from AMS versus 400 per rear!).

Anyone on the clunking???
Old Jun 7, 2008, 05:39 PM
  #88  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
 
cfdfireman1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Chicago
Posts: 4,165
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
http://www.albinoblacksheep.com/flash/posting

Give little Billy an answer he has 1 answer. Teach little Billy to search he can eat for a lifetime. Looks like little Billy is gonna starve.
Old Jun 7, 2008, 06:04 PM
  #89  
Evolving Member
iTrader: (4)
 
funks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Protostar1
When I do go for rotors, I will probably stick with Performance Friction (650 for the front pair from AMS versus 400 per rear!).

Anyone on the clunking???
The performance friction 2 piece rotors are only 539$ shipped. Quite a bit cheaper compared to other vendors (you'll be paying over 100$ from the rest).

http://www.cvrmotorsports.com/store/...roduct_id=1786

They are an evolutionm supporting vendor
Old Jun 8, 2008, 07:36 AM
  #90  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
 
cfdfireman1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Chicago
Posts: 4,165
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
you're so right..

Originally Posted by voidhawk


... and search is overrated. Every conceivable topic regarding the Evo8/9 has already been discussed on this board, but if all anybody ever did was search and not post from now on, this would be a very dull place.
..I for one prefer 2nd and 3rd hand information that somebody read about instead of experienced for themselves. Did anybody bother to search on the PF rotors yet? Let's see who can be the first to get good info on them.


Quick Reply: Brake failure/ first track day with the Evo



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:37 PM.