Brake failure/ first track day with the Evo
#108
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Did some research, Ferodo 2500s vs. PF Z-Rated thread with telemetry:
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/tunin...telemetry.html
I am considering going with PF 97s up front for track duty and leaving the PF Z-Rated in the rear for street/track as they don't see nearly the abuse the fronts get and it'll save me time prepping for the track.
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/tunin...telemetry.html
I am considering going with PF 97s up front for track duty and leaving the PF Z-Rated in the rear for street/track as they don't see nearly the abuse the fronts get and it'll save me time prepping for the track.
#109
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the brake ducts are good but you will still have the same problem with the 2500s, go with the hawk blue for a great track pad, and a good set of rotors dba for example, i always used motul rbf 600 and had no problems with it. stainless steel brake lines are also needed to stop the expansion of the stock rubber lines. if you do all this you should never have any brake fade ( but this is a track only setup nice to have another set of front rotors and street pads for dd
#110
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The 2500s or Z-rated street pads will go in the rear, and will not see nearly the heat the PF 97s will see. I'm willing to test this out for the benefit of not having to swap the rear pads b4 every trackday. So long as I match the 'bite' or torque of the PF 97s with the Z-rated in the rear. The temperature rating of the Z-rated in the rear won't be an issue I think.
#111
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PF97s are outrageously expensive IMO. I have a set of Hawk HT10s going in next weekend and PFZs still on the rear. My front PFZs are looking a tad cached but they might be fine for next winter use. The rears are still in great condition. The brake ducts are totally worth the price of admission. You WILL notice a difference. The rotors are not worth the cost unless you have money to throw around and you want that extra 2% fade prevention, with race pads, blank rotors, good fluid, and ducting you should be straight.
#112
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I've been reading the HT10s are "old technology" and if going with the Hawk like go with something like DTC70s as they were engineered to out perform them.
Hawk HT10: 300-1300F, intermediate to high torque
Performance Friction 97's: 167-2000F, intermediate to high torque
Hawk DTC60: 400-1600F, high torque
Hawk DTC70: 400-1600F, higher torque than 60's
Hawk HT10: 300-1300F, intermediate to high torque
Performance Friction 97's: 167-2000F, intermediate to high torque
Hawk DTC60: 400-1600F, high torque
Hawk DTC70: 400-1600F, higher torque than 60's
#113
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Did some research, Ferodo 2500s vs. PF Z-Rated thread with telemetry:
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/tunin...telemetry.html
I am considering going with PF 97s up front for track duty and leaving the PF Z-Rated in the rear for street/track as they don't see nearly the abuse the fronts get and it'll save me time prepping for the track.
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/tunin...telemetry.html
I am considering going with PF 97s up front for track duty and leaving the PF Z-Rated in the rear for street/track as they don't see nearly the abuse the fronts get and it'll save me time prepping for the track.
#114
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I've been reading the HT10s are "old technology" and if going with the Hawk like go with something like DTC70s as they were engineered to out perform them.
Hawk HT10: 300-1300F, intermediate to high torque
Performance Friction 97's: 167-2000F, intermediate to high torque
Hawk DTC60: 400-1600F, high torque
Hawk DTC70: 400-1600F, higher torque than 60's
Hawk HT10: 300-1300F, intermediate to high torque
Performance Friction 97's: 167-2000F, intermediate to high torque
Hawk DTC60: 400-1600F, high torque
Hawk DTC70: 400-1600F, higher torque than 60's
#117
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Wow, I got mine for $215-220, shipped, I want to say, PM Adam@MAPerformance. From the three different places I got quotes from, HT10s undercut everything by a decent margin. There is some Performance Brake pad or something that is cheaper but I have heard its crap... I was also originally recommended Raybestos ST43s by BlackTrack but decided on a less expensive, fronts only approach to the track this year.
#118
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First, you need to be running R-comp or be blazing on the track with street tires to warrant a "high torque" pad, otherwise youll just lock 'er up. Second, the HT10s are some of the cheapest "good" track pads. Third, you pay for the high torque, you will annihilate your rotors. HT10s are a moderate, inexpensive track pad that will likely see you through the track assuming you are under 400whp and arent on R-comps (as in me).
#119
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The DTCs are expensive, but they work very well, are easy to modulate and are very rotor friendly actually. They also seem to wear pretty well. I've used them mostly with street tires and had no issues with them. I haven't tried the HT10s, but the DTCs are way better than the Blues or Ferodo 3000s in all respects.