Brake failure/ first track day with the Evo
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Brake failure/ first track day with the Evo
Today was the first day my baby saw some track time. I knew the car handled great, but I was astounded by its agility. Something I was less pleased with was the brakes. After about 6 hard laps (8 total w/ warmup) my brake fade changed to brake failure. Pedal to the floor, completely unresponsive. Luckily I figured this out after slowing down some and then downshifted to a point I could use the e-brake. Having to use your e-brake to actually perform a stop was a little interesting... Looks like the fluid boiled and the pads overheated. I knew that fade was an issue on the stock brembos, but after 6 hard laps I am a little surprised by the brakes failing, to say the least. Now that the fluid is boiled and the brakes are not up to my needs, Im asking the community for recommendations on fluids, pads, and a good set of brake ducts.
My current plan is Castrol SRF fluid, Ferodo Pads (DS-2500?) or Hawk HP+, and AMS brake duct cooling kit.
Any recommendations?
Thanks in advance!
My current plan is Castrol SRF fluid, Ferodo Pads (DS-2500?) or Hawk HP+, and AMS brake duct cooling kit.
Any recommendations?
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by Protostar1; Jun 1, 2008 at 03:38 PM.
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Its not necesairly the pads, although I hate the stockers. Its the fluid, if youre going to track the car, definately get at least something decent.
that upgrade package you have set up for yourself is a great setup. if you can deal with a bit of pad noise, go with the HP+'s. much cheaper and they are a very very good pad. although they are too noisy for most evo drivers (which dont track their cars anyways) they stop very well.
that upgrade package you have set up for yourself is a great setup. if you can deal with a bit of pad noise, go with the HP+'s. much cheaper and they are a very very good pad. although they are too noisy for most evo drivers (which dont track their cars anyways) they stop very well.
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If you plan to track your car you have to have a dedicated set of track pads.
I recommend CarboTech XP12 pads. Hands down the best stopping power I've ever had. I've tried 2500s, 3000s, and Porterfields. The Carbotech have never ever let me down.
I run Motul 600 for fluid.
I recommend CarboTech XP12 pads. Hands down the best stopping power I've ever had. I've tried 2500s, 3000s, and Porterfields. The Carbotech have never ever let me down.
I run Motul 600 for fluid.
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Keep the advice flowing! I am alreadly rethinking things, and yes the SRF fluid is insanely expensive, but I ran my car today at competition levels and I would really like to avoid a wall at 90 . How does the RBF600 compare to the SRF?
I was also thinking I would get the Buschur SS lines at the same time. Opinions?
Also, I found some ATE Super Blue Racing in my garage (unopened), I had a Porsche tuner tell me that the blue worked poorly in a customers Evo...
I was also thinking I would get the Buschur SS lines at the same time. Opinions?
Also, I found some ATE Super Blue Racing in my garage (unopened), I had a Porsche tuner tell me that the blue worked poorly in a customers Evo...
Last edited by Protostar1; Jun 1, 2008 at 05:46 PM.
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Stainless lines, motul and a dedicated track pad on all 4 corners
the 2500's are a good street pad. They will fade on track.
i ve ran a lot of different pads, i have been running raybestous T43 for the past year. I am more than happy with them.
the 2500's are a good street pad. They will fade on track.
i ve ran a lot of different pads, i have been running raybestous T43 for the past year. I am more than happy with them.
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Im not sure you do have to change the fluid nearly as often. From what I have gathered in my brief research, SRF is non-hygroscopic, meaning it does not absorb water. So, as long as you dont boil the fluid, you can hang on to it for a good while. The stuff is patented by Castrol and if its true you dont need to change it much, that would be the reason for the high cost.
Last edited by Protostar1; Jun 1, 2008 at 11:49 PM.
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I actually switch between ATF and MOTUL each season. I notice no difference between the two. I suggest getting a powerbleeder (not speedbleeder) for your car. It makes bleeding very easy... especially just to clear the last 6" of line after a track day.
My opinion is that SS lines aren't needed. I do have the GIRODISC titanium shims and they seem to protect the piston seals but when running new pads they don't always fit.
My opinion is that SS lines aren't needed. I do have the GIRODISC titanium shims and they seem to protect the piston seals but when running new pads they don't always fit.
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Stock/old fluid does not hold up at all to track use. Fresh RBF600 is all you need. I flush the brake fluid before every track day; cheap insurance The DS2500 are great street pads but only a very light duty track pad. Think 40F air temps and a track with light braking. You should definitely look into a track-only pad.
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I've boiled fluid before, too. It's no fun. Castrol used to make a cheaper synthetic that wasn't SRF, but I haven't been able to find it anymore. The SRF is a race-only deal. Very short lifespan, the RBF600 is a better way to go if you drive your car every day.
The Carbotechs are amazing, by the way. I used XP12's in front and XP10's in the back and it amazed me how good they were. I kept going deeper and deeper into the turns and never ran out of brakes. The brakes were stronger than my self-confidence, I never did find their limits.
The Carbotechs are amazing, by the way. I used XP12's in front and XP10's in the back and it amazed me how good they were. I kept going deeper and deeper into the turns and never ran out of brakes. The brakes were stronger than my self-confidence, I never did find their limits.
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going out on stock pads & fluid is suicide, glad you survived...
motul600 & some aggressive pads will do.... stainless steel lines & air duct kit if you want to call it a day.
motul600 & some aggressive pads will do.... stainless steel lines & air duct kit if you want to call it a day.
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Another question : How much fluid do I need to flush the system? (ie will the 1 liter jug get the job done?)
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At $10 per can of ATF super blue it doesn't really matter how long it lasts. Most people will bleed the fluid before and after an event. Keep in mind this isn't a complete flush .... just a bleed to get the brown turds from the poobo's out of the lines.
If you use ATF superblue and want a complete bleed then just go to autozone and get some cheap gold crap to clean the lines with. Refill / bleed with ATF and call it a day.
If you use ATF superblue and want a complete bleed then just go to autozone and get some cheap gold crap to clean the lines with. Refill / bleed with ATF and call it a day.
#15
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Just nit picking.. it's ATE Super Blue... not ATF.. just so the newbies don't get confused.
At $10 per can of ATF super blue it doesn't really matter how long it lasts. Most people will bleed the fluid before and after an event. Keep in mind this isn't a complete flush .... just a bleed to get the brown turds from the poobo's out of the lines.
If you use ATF superblue and want a complete bleed then just go to autozone and get some cheap gold crap to clean the lines with. Refill / bleed with ATF and call it a day.
If you use ATF superblue and want a complete bleed then just go to autozone and get some cheap gold crap to clean the lines with. Refill / bleed with ATF and call it a day.