Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

Today was the first day my baby saw some track time. I knew the car handled great, but I was astounded by its agility. Something I was less pleased with was the brakes. After about 6 hard laps (8 total w/ warmup) my brake fade changed to brake failure. Pedal to the floor, completely unresponsive. Luckily I figured this out after slowing down some and then downshifted to a point I could use the e-brake. Having to use your e-brake to actually perform a stop was a little interesting... Looks like the fluid boiled and the pads overheated. I knew that fade was an issue on the stock brembos, but after 6 hard laps I am a little surprised by the brakes failing, to say the least. Now that the fluid is boiled and the brakes are not up to my needs, Im asking the community for recommendations on fluids, pads, and a good set of brake ducts.

My current plan is Castrol SRF fluid, Ferodo Pads (DS-2500?) or Hawk HP+, and AMS brake duct cooling kit.

Any recommendations?

Thanks in advance!

P-ROY

iTrader: (1)

I used the Motul Fluid but I never went to the track.

Drove her pretty hard on the sreet and never had a boil issue.

RaNGVR-4

iTrader: (4)

Its not necesairly the pads, although I hate the stockers. Its the fluid, if youre going to track the car, definately get at least something decent.

that upgrade package you have set up for yourself is a great setup. if you can deal with a bit of pad noise, go with the HP+'s. much cheaper and they are a very very good pad. although they are too noisy for most evo drivers (which dont track their cars anyways) they stop very well.

DarksideEng

iTrader: (38)

I believe you will have to change out the SRF often aswell. Thats some expensive fluid , thats why most run RBF600

Jeff_Jeske

iTrader: (66)

If you plan to track your car you have to have a dedicated set of track pads.

I recommend CarboTech XP12 pads. Hands down the best stopping power I've ever had. I've tried 2500s, 3000s, and Porterfields. The Carbotech have never ever let me down.

I run Motul 600 for fluid.

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

Keep the advice flowing! I am alreadly rethinking things, and yes the SRF fluid is insanely expensive, but I ran my car today at competition levels and I would really like to avoid a wall at 90 . How does the RBF600 compare to the SRF?

I was also thinking I would get the Buschur SS lines at the same time. Opinions?

Also, I found some ATE Super Blue Racing in my garage (unopened), I had a Porsche tuner tell me that the blue worked poorly in a customers Evo...

jbfoco

iTrader: (13)

Stainless lines, motul and a dedicated track pad on all 4 corners

the 2500's are a good street pad. They will fade on track.

i ve ran a lot of different pads, i have been running raybestous T43 for the past year. I am more than happy with them.

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

Im not sure you do have to change the fluid nearly as often. From what I have gathered in my brief research, SRF is non-hygroscopic, meaning it does not absorb water. So, as long as you dont boil the fluid, you can hang on to it for a good while. The stuff is patented by Castrol and if its true you dont need to change it much, that would be the reason for the high cost.

Jeff_Jeske

iTrader: (66)

I actually switch between ATF and MOTUL each season. I notice no difference between the two. I suggest getting a powerbleeder (not speedbleeder) for your car. It makes bleeding very easy... especially just to clear the last 6" of line after a track day.




My opinion is that SS lines aren't needed. I do have the GIRODISC titanium shims and they seem to protect the piston seals but when running new pads they don't always fit.

spdracerut

iTrader: (2)

Stock/old fluid does not hold up at all to track use. Fresh RBF600 is all you need. I flush the brake fluid before every track day; cheap insurance The DS2500 are great street pads but only a very light duty track pad. Think 40F air temps and a track with light braking. You should definitely look into a track-only pad.

jbrown

iTrader: (17)

I've boiled fluid before, too. It's no fun. Castrol used to make a cheaper synthetic that wasn't SRF, but I haven't been able to find it anymore. The SRF is a race-only deal. Very short lifespan, the RBF600 is a better way to go if you drive your car every day.

The Carbotechs are amazing, by the way. I used XP12's in front and XP10's in the back and it amazed me how good they were. I kept going deeper and deeper into the turns and never ran out of brakes. The brakes were stronger than my self-confidence, I never did find their limits.

nils

iTrader: (56)

going out on stock pads & fluid is suicide, glad you survived...

motul600 & some aggressive pads will do.... stainless steel lines & air duct kit if you want to call it a day.

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

From all the sources I have read, the SRF seems to be a longer lasting fluid because of its dry boiling point of 590F and very high wet boil point of 518F. That wet boiling point is better than many dry limits for other fluids and the wet boil point seems to be a real restrictor on lifespan of fluid.

Another question : How much fluid do I need to flush the system? (ie will the 1 liter jug get the job done?)

Jeff_Jeske

iTrader: (66)

At $10 per can of ATF super blue it doesn't really matter how long it lasts. Most people will bleed the fluid before and after an event. Keep in mind this isn't a complete flush .... just a bleed to get the brown turds from the poobo's out of the lines.

If you use ATF superblue and want a complete bleed then just go to autozone and get some cheap gold crap to clean the lines with. Refill / bleed with ATF and call it a day.

rsboy

iTrader: (48)

Just nit picking.. it's ATE Super Blue... not ATF.. just so the newbies don't get confused.