wjamyers

Yes I already searched here and google and cannot find the answer...

I just had Ferodo DS2500s installed on my 2006 Evo IX. A also had them put on a set of Technafit brake lines cause I might track it one day. I got the parts last week from http://www.RaceShopper.com.

When I got it back, last night after hours, the pedal went nearly to the floor before engaging the brakes. Pissed.

I took it back this AM, told them it was no good and they took a 2nd look and said that the pad didn't fit right and it was pushing the pad back. They said they need to grind the pad to make it fit. I said go ahead. When I got it back they said the brakes were still "spongey". Well I got in and they had obviously reset the upper limit of the brake pedal to make it appear as though it had a shorter push to engage the brakes. As if a performance car owner who drives their car just for fun is not going to notice such a thing.

Man I'm pissed. Obviously I won't be going back to my local shop but now what?

The invoice I got from raceshopper says "2006 Evolution 8" WTF?

2 questions...

Is there any difference between the 8 and 9 for brake pad fitment?

Now what?

Can anyone recommend an EVO specialist to take it to near Arlington Virginia?

Please advise.

dbsears

iTrader: (37)

You might want to see if you are loosing fluid. Ferodos pads also usually fit good. I have seen some cases where Technafit lines dont fit very well. As far as 8 or 9 they are both the same.

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

They probably installed the lines and didn't bleed the brakes properly, or possibly at all. Evo's have a specifc bleeding order.

wjamyers

Ah HA!!! This sounds promising. Thanks guys!!

They SAY they bled them but they also obviously tried to trick me by changing the top reset position of the brake pedal (is there a more correct term for this?)

Does anyone know where to find the proper bleed order (and any other such useful technical info in one place)?

Man these brakes were so awsome 2 weeks ago.

4cdndctn

iTrader: (8)

From furthest to the master cylinder to closest and most do outside caliper followed by inside caliper.

Remember to continuously refill the resevoir as the fluid drops below the line...

wjamyers

Ok I found it here:

http://www.joe250.com/cars/evo8/brak...ebleeding.html

There are TWO nipples PER!? WTF?

4cdndctn

iTrader: (8)

If that's your response, you may want to consider not doing the job yourself...

You need to read the how to section carefully if you are going to attempt to do this yourself.

What the how to might not say is after your done, and you go for a test drive, remember you don't have pressure in your system the first one or two stops so do some test pumping...

wjamyers

Considering that this shop is friends of a friend and I already paid for the job to be done right, I'll be taking it back first thing Monday morning with a printout of the bleed order and telling them to do it again.

I don't have a good place to do the work myself and i'm too lazy.

4cdndctn

iTrader: (8)

Way to be honest! Good plan and good for doing the research as to how THEY should be working on your car...

wjamyers

Got the car back today. Everythings fine after I printed off the bleed order for them.

Ferodos kick *** even though I haven't bedded them yet.

Where should I take my EVO for work in the future in Northern Virginia?

Please Advise.

Ad-Rok

iTrader: (3)

Never take your car anywhere other than Atlantic Motorsports in Gaithersburg if you are remotely near DC. Ever.

Also, get the stock fluid out and put in Motul 600 brake fluid. I run Ferodo DS2500's, steel lines, and slotted rotors now, and they rock. I boiled the stock fluid using the uber-crappy Hawk HPS crap-pads at the track in '06 which was quite scary.

Cory can provide you with great rotors which will match much better than the soft stockers for those much grippier DS2500s, quite cheaply, if you want them. Ask him and tell him Adam sent you. :-)

Cheers,
Adam

4cdndctn

iTrader: (8)

Just a thought here... Based on the 2500 pads top operating temp threshold, the RBF600 is overkill in performance and your wallet. I'm all for 'better' fluid to a point, but this is more like a mix of applications.

I'll explain...

If you have RBF600, one of the most hydroscopic fluids, you have to flush (not bleed) your fluids frequently or you risk corrosion. For the cost and/or effort of having RBF600, you could have dedicated pads you would swap with your brake fluid 6 or so times/yr based on season that are not a compromise pad like a Ferodo 2500. Matching Ferodos up with Motul 5.1 or Ate before RBF600 would be more practical.

FWIW, I use Ate Blue in the winter and Motul 5.1 in the warmer months. The Ate is used with RB ET500 pads and the Motul 5.1 is used with dedicated track pads with a threshold well over the Ferodos and I still don't boil.

So is your car tracked with a light duty pad or is it street driven with a heavy duty fluid?

Motul 5.1 is about $8 when RBF600 is about $18 btw...

Ad-Rok

iTrader: (3)

Unclear whether you were asking me about my car or the OP about his car?

I had not heard of Motul 600 causing corrosion, that's interesting. IMO, Ferodo does not make a "light-duty" pad and despite their description, the DS2500's are hardly much of a compromise for me. If anything, they are noisy and harsh on the street and superbly predictable on the track. I'd also rather not swap pads and fluid 6 times a year. A few Motul 600 flushes would certainly seem cheaper than 6 fluid and pad changes in labor and parts, but then, if I was worried about a beer's worth of price difference on brake fluid, I would not be tracking my car in the desert heat.

I confess, I haven't heard anyone say "don't perform that modification, it improves performance too much" in a long while.

4cdndctn

iTrader: (8)

That was a reply to you Ad-Rok... The corrosion is an adverse effect of ultra-hydroscopic fluid and it only happens when regular maintenence is not performed. Unfortunately hydroscopic regular maintenance includes high frequency full flushes than other fluids. I believe some people refer to hydroscopic fluid as a "Find-n-bind" to moisture...

Regarding the pads, I left out a word in my prior thread. The 2500s could be considered a light duty track pad as opposed to a light duty pad, sorry bout that... My point was you are likely using too high maintenance (not quality) a fluid or too low a threshold pad. If your pads are working great on track and on the street, try Motul 5.1 which should give you the same performance for less dollars, and require both less and less frequent maintenance. However, if for some odd reason, you feel that 5.1 reaches its boiling point (and it shouldn't if your Ferodos maintain their integrity), than RBF600 is the next step up.

By the way, I like Ferodo 2500s a lot. They were my benchmark all purpose pad until recently when I found a pad that was less noisy, produces less dust and maintained similar bite and modulation characteristics up to the same op temp threshold.

Ride on-

wjamyers

update

I'm about sick of the gawdawful non-stop squealing of these brake pads, sometimes the left and right harmonize with each other in symphonic splendor. I thought it was supposed to go away at some point but I have more than 10K on them, I'm sure.

the performance is just excelent, tho, so. best braking car I've ever driven so nothing to compare it to, just nutz had deep you can dive into corners.

whatever, "it's a rally car, that's why"

YMMV, naturally.

party on...