LayinLo

iTrader: (9)

If you get them in a color like black, does that mean they are zinc coated?

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

^ No, it means that they are painted. My first set were painted red, and most of the paint burned off during the first track day.

l8r)

derekste

iTrader: (9)

the point of the zinc is to protect the surfaces that don't come in contact with the pad from corrosion... or so I thought. it isn't supposed to do anything for the part that touches the pad, just prevent unsightly rust from the non-wearing parts of the rotor.

kim.ry

iTrader: (24)

hmmm I am using PowerSlots all around, and i drive like a fking retard and tailgate most of people on the road, still havent got in any accident. they work like champs, not too expensive neither.

EvoHung

iTrader: (18)

I just installed my rotorpros rotors and pads last Friday. Still trying to break them in. The vendor told me to do 30-10mph braking for about 13 or so miles. Then 55-30mph braking for about 20 or so miles. Then after that I can brake as hard as I want.

EVO196

iTrader: (51)

PowerSlots, is what i'm going with....I've had them before in my integra & they worked very good....

CAD EVO

iTrader: (22)

Standard powerslot slotted rotors (nevermind cryo frozen), can't go wrong, and they look great behind my new 18's

Apparently slotted rotors also allow you to tailgate, woo whoo.

WarmPepsi

iTrader: (35)

I disagree with that. I'd run then originally, and they're basically stock blanks. They're going to hold just as much heat as a stock rotor.

Running them in back is fine though.

For anyone else that hasn't read and done research, it's highly doubtful you warped any rotors. It's brake pad buildup. any questions? put it on a lathe, and measure a few points. it'll be round.

You won't notice any quicker stopping with new rotors, the only reason to upgrade them is if you're running on track, and you're overheating them, and they're holding too much heat. I honestly recommend the performance friction 2 piece units. They were always great for me. Night and day to stock rotors (or rotorpros.)

Secondly, there is no reason to run slotted rotors, unless you like chewing up pads much quicker than needed. Sure, as the rotor spins, it'll get fresh pad every time you want to stop, but on the street. completely unnecessary.

Moral of Story: Go out and use a caliper on your rotors, see if they're within the service limit. If so? Go out and rebed your pads in, you'll be fine.

If not, buy a cheap, non-slotted, non-drilled, non-nothinged rotor, and put it on. it'll be more than sufficient for any street or auto-x car.

If you're heavily tracking, I'd recommend TRACK pads with the proper 2 piece rotors. Street pads have no business being on the track, unless you like destroying stuff, and like to have smoke rolling off your brakes as you pull into the pits.