MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

I FIANLLY got my Perrin endlinks the other day and I've had some time to go out and do a few hard drives. The set up for anyone who doesn't know is: DIY front sway bar mod with WhiteLine front endlinks, WhiteLine RSB (middle hole) with Perrin rear endlinks and Swift Sports.

A few things I noticed. Initial turn in is awesome. Almost scary, I'm holding back a little because I feel like it may spin if I turn in like I used to. I really like to trail-brake, which I may need to break that habit Probably wouldn't spin, but I'm just being cautious. Mid-corner feels great. A little less roll, which is exactly what I was going for. The car doesn't feel like it's being "thrown" so much. Still off camber corners, which there are ALOT of around here, still feel crappy. The only negative thing I'm noticing, which may be due to slightly colder road temps now that it's October, is that I'm getting more understeer when going WOT out of the corner. The front tires are spinning and creating understeer. The car used to, if anything grip 100% OR actually slightly step the rear end out which I loved. The understeer is just frustrating.

My question is, to solve this, what would you do? I was thinking about going to the stiffest hole on the RSB, and leaving the front as is, OR going back to the stock setting on the front and leaving the rear alone. This is specifically to balance out under/oversteer. Also, I did this all while on a full tank of gas. I'm not sure why, but I've ALWAYS noticed more understeer with a full tank of gas. It did seem like later on during the day as the needle got closer to E the car became more neutral. Anybody else notice this?

I'm going to go out and test a bit more tomorrow, but I'd like to hear some opinions.

Ohh and just for fun, here's a picture I took along the way


PS: I NEED BRAKES!!!!!!

Zeus

iTrader: (66)

I've broken two RSB brackets on the OE suspension... then again, I'm NOT kind.

Sorry, late to the thread... PM me on your setup...

madmax199

iTrader: (20)

Try putting the rear sway bar on the softest setting, then dial in a little more rear camber and report back.

The sharper turn-in and improved mid corner is a clear indication that you've improved your front end grip with the DIY sway bar and end links, so leave that alone.

I'm almost positive that in your particular case, what you are experiencing at exit is one of 3 things that you need to adress:

1) Too much rear bar, lifting the inside rear wheel delaying your ability to be back on the gas as early as you would want to(very common with the evo).

2) You have reached the point of needing a rear diff upgrade(TRE rear upgrade should be on the top of your Christmas wish list )

3) Need of more negative rear camber.

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

Well, like I said, I'm going to go out and do some more "testing" today since my tank is a little lower. I feel more understeer with more weight in the back. It's weird. I always thought the rule of thumb was just the opposite. more weight in the back is supposed to cause oversteer. We'll see how things go today. Also, it's warmer today, so a little more grip. If things are still the same, I'll try the softer setting on the rear bar.

Would the front OEM LSD out of the 04+ cars help with WOT understeer out of corners? I'd imagine a rear diff upgrade would help just as much. I used to actually get REAR wheel spin causing the rear to slightly step out on really tight 2nd gear corners. It was fun

mitsuatb

iTrader: (6)

Understeer means too much grip at the rear.

The increased weight of the fuel load when full, plus the suspension squat (Negative camber increases) when loaded will give you more rear grip and understeer, just what you have seen.

Softer rear sway and more negative camber will increase understeer, not what you are looking for.

If anything you need less rear camber and stiffer bar setting on the rear.

The stiffest end will slide first.

mitsuatb

madmax199

iTrader: (20)

Or mainly not enough grip in the front to change the straight line momentum.

Remember he is seeing push at exit, not at entry or mid corner.

OP, do your own testing and you'll find what works.

madmax199

iTrader: (20)

Double post, sorry

madmax199

iTrader: (20)

MitsuJdm, when testing do one modification at the time and test it, then move to the next one .

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

Before I did any changes I went out again just to double check my understeering issues. I drive the 15 - 20 miles away from home to my favorite road. The only road that is usually deserted enough and that I know well enough to go nearly 100% on. I start on the road, and just mentally, something doesn't feel right. I take it easy through the first few corners, I start to see random people on the side of the road telling me to slow down. Not because I was driving fast, because I wasn't at the time, but because there was an accident ahead. I was told to turn around. 15 - 20 mile drive for nothing. It seemed the accident wasn't all that bad, so I went on my way.

ANYWAY... I was later able to tell what the issue is. As usual, turn-in is good, but as I would bring the car to it's limits, I would notice pretty harsh mid-corner understeer, which would result in corner exit understeer. The car wasn't mid-corner understeering before, I'm assuming because I was easy on turn-in. I did this on a few more corners as well. Now that I'm confident enough to really throw the car into the corner as I used to, it would go straight into an understeer. Nothing crazy, but just enough to be frustrating.

I decided to take what both madmax and mitsulab had mentioned, and decided that since there is NOW mid-corner understeer, I'd try another notch on the rear bar. Well, so far, so good. I was purposely trying to make the car understeer with a harsh turn-in on throttle. The car didn't care. It got through the corner with minimal drama. Body roll feels much better too. I'm STILL not 100% on these settings YET, but I like them so far. I did a few WOT pulls out of tight 2nd gear corners and the car had little wheel spin, or no spin at all. It could just be my driving habits, it could be the specific corners as to why the car acted different both times. There is more testing to be done this weekend. As of now, I destoried a full tank of gas in 177miles (ususally able to get 230 driving normal) and I have to work 12 hour days for the next three days, so I'll be to tired :P So far, this is my favorite setting. BUT....we'll see

GTWORX.com

iTrader: (35)

Yes, especially with the stiffer front bar. Do it if you can.

Pretty picture by the way.


- Andrew

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

Man, f*** Mitsubishi for cutting costs on the '03's, haha. If I had known better before I bought an Evo, I would have tracked down an '05 for the front LSD and 10.5 hotside. I'm stuck with the worst handling, slowest accelerating (stock) Evo ever Well, except for maybe the UKDM 260 version Of course NOW it's faster and better handling than stock... But that's not the point I'm trying to make.

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

With the rear bar at full stiff, I'm lifting the inside rear wheel around tight corners. I'm going to try putting the front back to stock and the rear at the middle, and see how I like that.

madmax199

iTrader: (20)

I tried telling you (post # 33) that the rear need to be on full soft or you'll accentuate the tripode effect. The stiffer front bar helped the heavy front end from rolling over itself( outside corner dive).

The rear however, IMO never likes more rear bar unless your goal is to mask the understeer by removing rear grip and inducing oversteer before the still existing push reappear. If for some reason you must run more rear bar (insufficient spring rates for example) the increase of front bar stiffness would have to be higher to achieve that desired balance.

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

I'm just expeirmenting with all the possible combonations of sway bar stiffness I can. As of now, this combo is AWESOME for third gear, 50mph corners and higher due to less roll and less understeer, but still on the REAL tight stuff, I'm still pushing out of the corner, which I think is the end of the mid corner understeer. Also, lifting the inside rear wheel. I defiantly appriciate the help, I just have to find a setting that is all around "good". So far everything I've tried is only good at one type of corner, but sucks at another.

kekek

iTrader: (22)

TRE has front diff's for like $600. They can be swapped in a couple hours, not a bad job, IMO.

Totally worth it too.