MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

Has anyone (besides the ones who posted within the thread) tried this?

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...front+sway+bar

I'm looking to upgrade my sway bars. I don't want to do this "upgrade the rear and leave the front alone" trend. I feel like too many people think since the car swings sideways it "feels" faster. I'm not looking to DRASTICALLY reduce body roll, but a noticable reduction in body roll would be awesome. This car rolls so much. I come from a car with little roll, so it's a little wierd to me. I don't want to go with JUST the rear because I like the balance my car currently has. I can easily overcome understeer with a brush of brakes at turn-in and a little flick of the wheel.

I would like to upgrade both sway bars, like I said to keep the balance I have. I would love to buy the Swift sway bar combo. But I've been doing a lot of searching and there aren't any how-to's on front sway bar installation. I understand you need to drop the sub-frame and steering rack, but nothing very detailed. No short-cuts, tips or things to look out for on the way. I did find this how-to, though. Seems like it may work, and I'm looking for some good, solid reviews on this, good AND bad. If you have something good to say about this mod, PLEASE let me know. If you have something bad to say about this mod, PLEASE share your opinion. That's the point of this thread. I want good, honest and knowledgable opinions

I'd like to try this in conjuction with a decent rear sway bar. That way I can fine-tune my current "balance" back in with the rear bar's adjustments and a custom alignment. I have access to an alignment rack to do my own alignments

Any help from experienced suspension guru's or anybody who has tried this mod is highly appriciated.

Thanks in advance, guys!

madmax199

iTrader: (20)

I have this mod in my car front and rear, however after testing the effect of all the possible combinations I'm using the upraded front holes with the stock rear ones.

My car is on coilovers with high spring rates/Rc correction/ heavy static camber and huge tires, so running the stiffer holes front and rear might be the ticket for a stockish car with softer springs. You should however do some testing to see what works for you.

As far as the effect of the mod are concerned, it does what it's suppose to do, increase the torsional force of the sway bars just like a bigger bar would, but differently (shortening of the arms).

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

Bump. Any more feedback on this? So far it looks like I may give it a shot with an aftermarket RSB and Whiteline endlinks font and rear. It looks like it adds some extra stress to the endlinks, so I'd want to get the Whiteline links for extra strength.

mitsuatb

iTrader: (6)

I am wondering about this also.

Tanbe has a 25.4mm hollow front sway bar.

It is a single position bar intended for the stock endlinks.

Hollow bar is musch lighter about 25% less than a solid bar.

Depending on the wall thickness about 80-90% of the stiffness of a solid bar.

They also have a 22mm rear bar, but I think that is a stock size.

My thought is that the front only might work.

I also wonder if the ACD is having an affect, perhaps the ralliart ACD controller might change the handling.

My 02

Mitsuatb

scheides

iTrader: (10)

Bump, looks like a cool mod. Any real-world reviews?

madmax199

iTrader: (20)

What is real world to you: street, track, street/track?

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

madmax199 posted some good info in the link in my original post. VERY convincing info. Great info as far as on track performance goes.

What I'm looking for is different opinions from many people who have done this. So far the only negative thing I've read is it'll induce understeer, but if I remeber correctly these people either had the stock rear sway bar, or coil-overs already dialed in. Of course adding JUST this mod will create understeer.

I'll be using this mod, if I'm convinced in conjunction with a 24mm adjustable WhiteLine RSB to keep close to the current balance I have now. Also, be able to fine tune the balance. Installing a front sway bar seems like a pain in the *** and if this mod has the same benifits as an aftermarket front sway bar, installing and paying for a front sway bar doesn't seem worth it. Even if an aftermarket front sway bar is hardly better, still this mod is worth saving the money and hassle.

If I feel too much understeer with this mod, my goal is to be able balance it out with an adjustable RSB and put the stock front bar back to the stock holes, or keep the front bar where it's at and play with rear adjustments. It all depends.

What I really want is reduced body roll without losing the current balance. Not drastically reduce roll, but enough to make a differance. If I wanted to be totally flat, I wouldn't go this route. I have Swift Springs, but the car still rolls WAY too much. The car is VERY well planted, but I think with a little less roll, it'll be better and give greater confidence. The body roll, I think, reduces confidence which is a big part in going fast.

madmax199

iTrader: (20)

You are on the right track, the bars (altough have an effect on final wheel rate) shouldn't really be used primarely to control roll, your main roll control should be your springs and the bars used as a secondary tool to fine tune sway and balance(push vs rotation).

The advantage of the DIY mod is you can go back to stock setting when/if needed on the fly.

A bigger front bar reduces understeer considerably in our platform regardless of what some may feel unless obviously your front spring rates are already high enough to keep RC migration and camber loss in check for the lateral G loads your set up is generating.

For my car for example 12k springs on 315 R-comp wasn't enough and needed more front bar and I'm pretty sure that a car at the level you are at will benefit from less roll and camber loss but, always test for yourself .

xtnct

iTrader: (33)

I didn't try this yet, but may give it a go.

This is a worthy read: http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/lean-less/ .

By my calculations, on the rear bar, moving the end link inwards by 10mm, would gain about 3.5% more stiffness over the stock location.

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

Very true when they say body roll effects the driver. I feel like the car tosses me around. I really do need a better seat. I must say the stock Recaros are the best OEM seat I've ever been in, but the Sparco I have in my Mirage is simply awesome.

I'll be getting a WhiteLine 24mm RSB along with all four endlinks, and probably drill out the front bar, just for balancing purposes. I feel this should be a pretty good street set-up and do decent on a track. I'm not looking to be competitive, but maybe a few hillclimbs next year.

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

So, I did this mod over the past 3 days. First day I trashed a 3/8" titanium bit. Got about half way through. Went out and bought a 1/4" Cobolt bit, and a 13/32" Titanium. Got through the Passanger side the next day with A LOT of effort and an oily mess all over my Control arm :P This is NOT an easy thing to do. The next side, I went out and bought a new titanium 3/8" drill bit. I sharpended the old 3/8" and the 13/32". I used the cobolt 1/4" (which was the sharpest and most durable of them all) and got pretty far then my friend and I took turns finishing the hole. It helps once you break through a litte to start drilling from the otherside of the bar. We used regular lubricationg oil, penetrating oil, WD-40 and water. But, I'm finally done. And sore.

I have no idea how people are getting through in 10 minutes You people must be behemoths or something. Oh well, it's done. And my advice to anybody who wants to give this a shot, my advice is this:

- 1/4" cobolt drill bit
- 3/8" cobolt drill bit
- 13/32" or 25/64" or 27/64" cobolt drill bit (titaniums will work, but I like the cobolts better)
- Penetrating oil
- A GOOD corded drill
- A bench grinder (to sharpen the bits. This helps a TON and saves money)
- 5 hour energy shot (a little dissapointed in these. They worked, just not like I had hoped)
- A good friend to help and take turns so you don't die.
- Anywhere from 2 hours to 2 days worth of time

The car isn't back together yet. It's been on jackstands the past four days. My new front and rear endlinks as well as my WhiteLine RSB will be here tuesday. I'm not going to bother putting the car back together until then. Even though the car is in the garage, it's raining and not worth it to go "test" in the rain.

We'll see how I like this mod. I'm trying to avoid the hassle of installation of a front sway bar. I'm capable and have a lift at work, but I already work a 12 hour day and don't feel like doing it at work :P If this mod doesn't impress me or hurts performce at all, I'll go back to the stock holes and go with a WhiteLine FSB later on. We shall see

goofygrin

iTrader: (5)

I have an X, but interested to see how this turns out! Too bad you won't get to test it before doing other things to know that this was what made the difference or not...

madmax199

iTrader: (20)

Wow!!! You did it the hard way, I didn't think it was possible to sart it with such a big size drill bit.

The reason it was so difficult, beside the fact that it's hardened steel, is that you needed to step up the drill bits from something like a 3/32 or 7/64 and work your way up to the desired size. I did it by starting with 7/64 and went to 5/32, 13/64, 1/4, 9/32, 21/64 then finally 3/8, kind of a lot but they all went trough like a hot knife in butter.

The good thing is you were able to finish it and can now enjoy the results. To me it was limited front pitch that cured the resulting camber loss and understeer, much crisper turn in and not lifting the inside rear allowing me to stand on the gas pedal so much earlier(point and shoot style).

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

I started with a 1/4". I thought that'd be small enough!

I'm looking for a little less body roll, and more over/understeer adjustability. I have Wednesday off to install everything and go out of a nice long drive

madmax199

iTrader: (20)

The upgraded FSB will give you less front roll and more grip unless you had spring rates high enough to keep that in check (12k wasn't enough in my case).
Keep us posted on how you like them when the car is back together.