Steering wheel shake when I push on the brakes
Sep 10, 2003, 09:14 AM
#32
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Originally posted by jemm
For the last time people.... your rotors are NOT WARPED!!. Please do not believe your dealership when they tell you this. What you all are suffering from is irregular pad to rotor transfer. This has been a problem with the stock brembo pad / Evo rotor combination since the late 90's. Fit some real pads!! The situation can be further improved by upgrading the rotors and fitting air cooling guides for better heat displacement.
Please see the post from Simom7Extreme from the MLR, as he explains the situation quite nicely:
http://www.lancerregister.com/showth...5&pagenumber=3
For the last time people.... your rotors are NOT WARPED!!. Please do not believe your dealership when they tell you this. What you all are suffering from is irregular pad to rotor transfer. This has been a problem with the stock brembo pad / Evo rotor combination since the late 90's. Fit some real pads!! The situation can be further improved by upgrading the rotors and fitting air cooling guides for better heat displacement.
Please see the post from Simom7Extreme from the MLR, as he explains the situation quite nicely:
http://www.lancerregister.com/showth...5&pagenumber=3
Sep 10, 2003, 10:31 AM
#33
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Look, some people on this board are WAY too sensitive. Whats with this Noitall **** Diesel? you are the last person I would expect that from.
Tell you what.... buy those nice Baer rotors for ~$500 a pair and fit the oem pads and watch what happens.
Tell you what.... buy those nice Baer rotors for ~$500 a pair and fit the oem pads and watch what happens.
Sep 10, 2003, 10:35 AM
#34
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Originally posted by jemm
Look, some people on this board are WAY too sensitive. Whats with this Noitall **** Diesel? you are the last person I would expect that from.
Tell you what.... buy those nice Baer rotors for ~$500 a pair and fit the oem pads and watch what happens.
Look, some people on this board are WAY too sensitive. Whats with this Noitall **** Diesel? you are the last person I would expect that from.
Tell you what.... buy those nice Baer rotors for ~$500 a pair and fit the oem pads and watch what happens.
i see i hit the wrong smiley... should have been this one...
Sep 10, 2003, 10:44 AM
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Originally posted by Diesel
thanks for the insight, Dr. Noitall...
thanks for the insight, Dr. Noitall...
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
".....In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures..."
Sep 10, 2003, 11:08 AM
#38
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Originally posted by Az3ar
jemm we are having the problem not you, what do you know??
jemm we are having the problem not you, what do you know??
No Prob 
Az3ar, I don't mean to sound arrogant ... In 1999 I purchased a new VI which was replaced in 2003 with a 7. In early '99 I had what everyone was telling me was "warped" rotors. Went to the dealership and was told the same thing. My rotors were re-surfaced at my expense. Yet the problem kept happening... sought the advice of another mechanic who told me about the pad transfer problem. Fitted some 'hardish' compund Hawk pads to the 6 before I sold it and the problem never came back (even though the hawks never fit 100% properly). God knows I beat the **** out of those hawks!
This 7 that i have now has the OEM pads (have not had the time to source Ferodo replacements from the USA) and the shaking is now very bad at high speeds. It was fine when I bought it from the previous owner, but just 1 episode of moderately heavy braking coming down a hill resulted in the shudder.
I am just trying to make sure that the new Evo owners in the US don't make the same mistakes that I did. It would be a shame for you to spend so much money on new discs when most of the problem lies elsewhere. Just trying to help.
Last edited by jemm; Sep 10, 2003 at 11:28 AM.
Sep 10, 2003, 11:34 AM
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Originally posted by Az3ar
so its not the disk, then what the pads???
so its not the disk, then what the pads???
1. oem pads that don't seem designed for fast road use.
2. rotors that really encourage pad transfer and have poor heat release.
3. mediocre front brake cooling.
If you want to attack the problem, you have to address all 3.
pm Perversity, he tracks his car and as far as i know, no longer has the shudder. He has fitted aftermarket rotors, ferodo pads, and cooling ducts.
Last edited by jemm; Sep 10, 2003 at 02:05 PM.
Sep 10, 2003, 12:37 PM
#42
I have 4000 Miles. I dont drive hard at all but every once I go realy fast like 140 mph or faster. No track at all cuz I have no time. I start driving since I was 14 in italy, my father was F1 racer and I drove one of these cars. so you know me well by now
Sep 10, 2003, 01:14 PM
#43
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I noticed the shaking for the first time I took the car over 100mph thought it was the road. Then I tried it again on another road and did not notice it as much these were the hoter days around here. The cooler days or early in the morning I dont seem to get the shaking but I have had it happen only at really high speeds. I figured eventually I would get new pads and better rotors. I am not a big fan of bringing the car in for any little thing the car is tough as nails and I drive hard autox, and now I am going to a race school with it. So unless the wheels come flying off or the engine falls out I wont worry to much about a little shaking. I think jemm might have a point about the pads and also in combination with hot weather? lets see what happens when winter rolls around.
Sep 10, 2003, 01:36 PM
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Well Az3ar, what you could try is just fitting some more aggressive pads, bed them in, and then do two 100- 0 mph stops followed by a cool down drive.
That cured the shudder for myself and quite a few others. Softer pads will only make the problem worse, the softer the material the less bite, less stopping power and more likely to transfer the material. If the dealership will re-surface the rotors for you (and I would press them to do it as you have only done 4000miles) and then fit some better pads and these brake cooling guides :
http://www.lancershop.com/brake_cooler.htm
I asked about your driving style because some members of the UK evo racing scene have found that only MOvit brakes solve their shudder problems (yes.. they have tried even the brembo discs), but realise that these blokes track their cars around F1 tracks until their discs glow orange!
At 4000M i doubt you would need to buy new rotors now. Why not try the less expensive alternative first ?
That cured the shudder for myself and quite a few others. Softer pads will only make the problem worse, the softer the material the less bite, less stopping power and more likely to transfer the material. If the dealership will re-surface the rotors for you (and I would press them to do it as you have only done 4000miles) and then fit some better pads and these brake cooling guides :
http://www.lancershop.com/brake_cooler.htm
I asked about your driving style because some members of the UK evo racing scene have found that only MOvit brakes solve their shudder problems (yes.. they have tried even the brembo discs), but realise that these blokes track their cars around F1 tracks until their discs glow orange!
At 4000M i doubt you would need to buy new rotors now. Why not try the less expensive alternative first ?
Last edited by jemm; Sep 10, 2003 at 02:03 PM.
