EVO8emUp

iTrader: (30)

To you guys that are lower than stock..

I'm sitting about 1" lower than stock in the rear and now I cent seem to get my rear toe back to within specification.

I'm completely maxed out on adjustment and I still need another -.31* to go to get it within tolerance.


Right now both rear wheels are toed out a little \ /.

Any advice?

GTLocke13

iTrader: (1)

Did you fix the camber first?

Kronik

iTrader: (3)

well with the information provided it sounds like you are doing the alignment yourself? Dropping the car should not affect toe (unless you did not get the car aligned after the spring / coilover install).

Unless something is causing the bolt not to rotate you should be able to get your toe back into spec. Have it professionally aligned and you should be fine. I'm running coilovers on my 05 VIII with zero toe on all 4 corners (after a corner weight / alignment session)

meckert

iTrader: (11)

[QUOTE=Kronik;6415731] Dropping the car should not affect toe (unless you did not get the car aligned after the spring / coilover install).


May need to rethink that statement, dropping the car will effect camber and thus toe. It will toe out in most cases and camber will go more negative. A change in one effects the other--For the rear, you can get off set busings for the adj arm that will get you back to spec if you can't move it more. I think its the rear bump steer kit. Worked on my car.

Smike

iTrader: (8)

Wrong.

Lowering the car does affect toe.

Is this any an alignment shop? I find it hard to believe that you cannot get the toe dialed in. You might have something else out of wack (camber adjustment). Recheck everything.

goofygrin

iTrader: (5)

The eccentric bolts sometimes can wear out. You might make sure there's no issue there.

But you should be able to swing that toe around without a problem.... What's your camber setting? The more aggressive I got with the camber, the harder it was to get the toe in spec.

EVO8emUp

iTrader: (30)

I'm doing it myself at the dealer. My friend is a tech, so I bring him a few micro brews and he helps me out.
The bolt is rotating or sliding in all the way. I removed the concentric washer to see if it was binding up and saw that it wasn't, it was just maxed out.

I set the camber first (-1.2*) and set the toe last. You have to do it that way as changing the camber affects the toe and setting the toe doesn't affect the camber.

Can anyone confirm if these were indeed the bump steer bushings that I need?

biggie5252

iTrader: (47)

Bumpsteer bushings (whiteline) installed per the instructions won't help, but you can adjust them to get your toe back in. The mounting hole in the bushing is offset, but the directions tell you to point it straight down which pretty much puts it at about the same position as the stock bushing but pushes the arm up a little bit. I had to adjust it so the hole pointed a little towards the wheel. Another option that was brought up in my thread was to widen the bolt hole towards the car to get a little more adjustment. I would go ahead and get the kit anyways. It's not very expensive.

goofygrin

iTrader: (5)

On my car (lowered quite a bit) you have to set the camber and toe at the same time since everything is on the same plane now.

In any case, something sounds bent if you are unable to get the toe in spec with such a low amount of rear camber.

Did you unlock the plate that the wheel sits on when you're aligning it?

EVO8emUp

iTrader: (30)

Yep. That was the first thing I checked.
I ordered the Whiteline Bumpsteer bushings today.

The car has never been damaged, as for something being bent is highly likely.

I'll install the bushings, with the hole closer to the hub to help pull the toe in a little. Slotting the hole more will be my last resort.