progressive springs for KWV3's?
Jan 5, 2009, 11:25 PM
#2
Wow! I have heard that you can change springs a limited amount from what they are valved at from factory. you migth want to email or PM RobiSpec as they know enough to get custom KW built to their specifications. Seems to me Robi knows his stuff. Had the opportunity to meet him and have him set up my Ohlins . 
So its' safe to assume you tried setting adjustments to full soft?
So its' safe to assume you tried setting adjustments to full soft?
Jan 6, 2009, 01:10 AM
#3
yeah full soft is "better" but still takes the hard bumps pretty "crashy"
also full soft its very wallowy (for an evo) so I feel like i have made the car worse than stock...
not necessarily going todo it, but just interested in ppls opinions on prog springs..
also full soft its very wallowy (for an evo) so I feel like i have made the car worse than stock...
not necessarily going todo it, but just interested in ppls opinions on prog springs..
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Jan 8, 2009, 05:49 PM
#8
Andrew, I just ordered 8K springs up front from you guys - (Hypercoil 60 MM ID, 8KG/mm, 170 mm free length) and was wondering if it's smarter for me to jump from 9K -> 7K instead.
I too have the V3's and they are a bit rough in our bad SoCal roads. I guess a similar issue w/ tephra. IMHO the stock rear (6K), is fine (coupled with stiffer sway bars) but the front leaves alot to be desired on the street and is a bit rough.
I too have the V3's and they are a bit rough in our bad SoCal roads. I guess a similar issue w/ tephra. IMHO the stock rear (6K), is fine (coupled with stiffer sway bars) but the front leaves alot to be desired on the street and is a bit rough.
Last edited by funks; Jan 8, 2009 at 05:54 PM.
Jan 8, 2009, 06:02 PM
#10
Will do - I ordered the 8K springs yesterday from GTWorx - if he can change the order to 7KG/mm springs instead - i'll try those.. When I talked to KW Suspension US a while back (when they were still in Canada), was stated that it's generally okay to go +/- 2KG/mm.
I chose 8KG/mm because that's what the Bilsteins PSS9 use (450 inch/lbs) and they rode better on the street (driven an evo with them before).
I chose 8KG/mm because that's what the Bilsteins PSS9 use (450 inch/lbs) and they rode better on the street (driven an evo with them before).
Last edited by funks; Jan 8, 2009 at 06:08 PM.
Jan 9, 2009, 02:18 PM
#11
Hopefully, GTWorx will create some sort of hypercoil replacement spring package for us - lol.
Per Andrew, running a lower rate spring of the same free length is not a good idea. I'd be happy if they sell a package set of lower rate springs of the proper free length.
I guess that will require some calculations to make sure the user doesn't run into coil bind before hitting the bump stops. I'm assuming longer free length springs might also require removing the helper springs altogether (I think it's only used during droop because it's fully compressed when the car is sitting on the ground - lol).
Per KW's site, the 80-170 have the same spring max-travel as the 90-170's (100mm).. So I'm crossing my fingers that the Hypercoil 7M0450s (7" Free length (177mm), 8 KG/mm (450 inch/lbs), 60mm ID) should be fine.
Per Andrew, running a lower rate spring of the same free length is not a good idea. I'd be happy if they sell a package set of lower rate springs of the proper free length.
I guess that will require some calculations to make sure the user doesn't run into coil bind before hitting the bump stops. I'm assuming longer free length springs might also require removing the helper springs altogether (I think it's only used during droop because it's fully compressed when the car is sitting on the ground - lol).
Per KW's site, the 80-170 have the same spring max-travel as the 90-170's (100mm).. So I'm crossing my fingers that the Hypercoil 7M0450s (7" Free length (177mm), 8 KG/mm (450 inch/lbs), 60mm ID) should be fine.
Last edited by funks; Jan 9, 2009 at 02:24 PM.
Jan 19, 2009, 06:16 PM
#13
tephra, I finally installed the 8KG/mm springs Hypercoil springs and it's definitely an improvement IMHO (left the rears the same). The harsh bumps are definitely muted, moreover - the high-speed ricer bounce that I got with the old setup (freeway speeds coupled w/ concrete seams == ricer bounce) is almost gone.
It's hard to explain, the car now has a very slight floaty type of feeling in the freeway compared to the old setup. Maybe it's a placebo effect but it's definitely there as I take the I-15 to work everday.
The fronts went from around 513 inch/lbs (90 Nm) -> 447 inch/lbs (8 kg/mm). The 60mm ID hypercoil springs are also 7" tall, so around 8 mm taller than the old springs. So I flopped them in, lowered the front perches around 6 mm and was good to go (ended up being the same ride height as the old setup per my yardstick).
I'm thinking about going to the mountains this weekend and will try them out in the twisties.
It's hard to explain, the car now has a very slight floaty type of feeling in the freeway compared to the old setup. Maybe it's a placebo effect but it's definitely there as I take the I-15 to work everday.
The fronts went from around 513 inch/lbs (90 Nm) -> 447 inch/lbs (8 kg/mm). The 60mm ID hypercoil springs are also 7" tall, so around 8 mm taller than the old springs. So I flopped them in, lowered the front perches around 6 mm and was good to go (ended up being the same ride height as the old setup per my yardstick).
I'm thinking about going to the mountains this weekend and will try them out in the twisties.
Last edited by funks; Jan 19, 2009 at 10:34 PM.
Jan 19, 2009, 06:18 PM
#14
cool.
Might be worthwhile increasing rebound on the fronts to see if your less floaty 
In general a soft rebound adjustment provides a comfortable ride at low vehicle speeds but the vehicle will have less stability at higher speeds, especially on the front axle (vehicle will tend to float at higher speeds). A hard rebound adjustment offers more stability but could reduce vehicle grip (i.e. the vehicle will tend to skip across road imperfections, reducing traction).