Megan Racing Toe Control Arms?
#1
Megan Racing Toe Control Arms?
http://www.meganracing.com/products/...=927&catid=108
Just want to see if anyone has actually used this product yet? It says they have been track tested, but man I'd hate to have them fail at 100mph. Has anyone run these on your car? Report? You like 'em?
I DO like the fact that they are less than HALF the price of some of the Japanese units out there . . .
Thanks!
EVOlutionary
Just want to see if anyone has actually used this product yet? It says they have been track tested, but man I'd hate to have them fail at 100mph. Has anyone run these on your car? Report? You like 'em?
I DO like the fact that they are less than HALF the price of some of the Japanese units out there . . .
Thanks!
EVOlutionary
#4
Newbie
iTrader: (5)
I am interested in possibly getting these, myself. Any further reviews? Keepin' this thread alive! :-)
I possibly want them because it seems that it's difficult (impossible?) to simultaneously get the rear toe to 0 and get the rear camber where you want it. Please please PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong here. The shop doing my alignment can't seem to give me both -1.3 to -1.5 degrees rear camber AND zero toe. One will be off if they give me the other. Frustrating.
My current set-up consists of:
Bilstein HD struts
GT Worx springs
Stock sway bars front and rear
Stock bushings (no Whiteline or urethane pieces)
18X9+30 wheels
245/40/18 Bridgestone RE01-R's
I'm going for 0 toe front and rear, -1.5 degrees camber in front, and -1.3 to -1.5 degrees camber rear. This is mainly a street application that may see an occasional track day.
Thanks for any info!
~Steve
I possibly want them because it seems that it's difficult (impossible?) to simultaneously get the rear toe to 0 and get the rear camber where you want it. Please please PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong here. The shop doing my alignment can't seem to give me both -1.3 to -1.5 degrees rear camber AND zero toe. One will be off if they give me the other. Frustrating.
My current set-up consists of:
Bilstein HD struts
GT Worx springs
Stock sway bars front and rear
Stock bushings (no Whiteline or urethane pieces)
18X9+30 wheels
245/40/18 Bridgestone RE01-R's
I'm going for 0 toe front and rear, -1.5 degrees camber in front, and -1.3 to -1.5 degrees camber rear. This is mainly a street application that may see an occasional track day.
Thanks for any info!
~Steve
#7
Newbie
iTrader: (5)
I watched them do the alignment and the rear camber was at about -1.6 or -1.7 with a little toe-in. I don't have the exact results because they were unable to print it all out (sigh...) and I honetly don't remember. It may have ended up closer to -1.5 with some toe-in. They claimed that the rear toe would go to toe out while driving if it was set at zero, which I didn't buy. In the end, I don't really think that they gave me what I asked for. I'm ready to get toe plates and camber equipment and do this myself like the race guys at the track... :-( I saw that turning the camber bolt on the rear control arm affects toe. How would you set those independently? I have half a desire to get those rear toe links, but there isn't tons of info about them available. I don't know, I'm kinda frustrated. Maybe everything is "good enough". "Good enough" just isn't how I normally do things, though.
~Steve
~Steve
Last edited by Thomas Chagrin; May 27, 2009 at 10:26 AM.
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#8
The adjustable links allow you to pull the rear toe "IN" more to get it to zero. . .
I have the Unlimited Works (Cyber EVO) rear toe links and they are superbly crafted. Spherical bearings on each end, and you can even adjust the bump steer curves a bit with spacers. . .
EVOlutionary
#10
Rear Toe Control Rods
http://www.green.dti.ne.jp/unlimited...l/rod/rod.html
Front Tie Rod Ends
http://www.green.dti.ne.jp/unlimited...od/tierod.html
Got them from Eric @ Driveline. He is a vendor on here, and great to work with. . .
EVOlutionary
http://www.green.dti.ne.jp/unlimited...l/rod/rod.html
Front Tie Rod Ends
http://www.green.dti.ne.jp/unlimited...od/tierod.html
Got them from Eric @ Driveline. He is a vendor on here, and great to work with. . .
EVOlutionary
#11
Evolved Member
It IS hard to get the rear camber and toe to cooperate on an Evo. TRUST me, I've aligned tons of them. No two are the same though, which is the unusual thing about our cars. I'm going to get a set for mine.
#12
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Norwalk, CT
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I'm a total suspension newbie, but do lower control arms = Anti-roll Bar Endlinks?
If so, here are homemade ones and parts list:
http://www.cs.unm.edu/~donour/cars/evo_endlinks/
(pictures look similar to me anyway *shrugs*)
GL!
If so, here are homemade ones and parts list:
http://www.cs.unm.edu/~donour/cars/evo_endlinks/
(pictures look similar to me anyway *shrugs*)
GL!
#13
Looks similar - but two different animals. The ASB end links connect the end of the sway bar to the control arm. This transmits body roll forces from the control arm to the sway bar which is in essence a big spring. It helps to minimize body roll in corners. . .
The Toe Control arms I posted a link to above go between the chassis and the rear wheel. As the rear wheel moves up and down they guide it's path and tries to keep the wheel pointing straight ahead. If you make them longer you get more toe out. If you make them shorter you get more toe in. Changing the toe (the angle the tire points in or out relative to "straight ahead") can affect how the car reacts in corners and to bumps. . .
Hope that helps. . . .
The Toe Control arms I posted a link to above go between the chassis and the rear wheel. As the rear wheel moves up and down they guide it's path and tries to keep the wheel pointing straight ahead. If you make them longer you get more toe out. If you make them shorter you get more toe in. Changing the toe (the angle the tire points in or out relative to "straight ahead") can affect how the car reacts in corners and to bumps. . .
Hope that helps. . . .
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