EVOlutionary

iTrader: (38)

http://www.meganracing.com/products/...=927&catid=108

Just want to see if anyone has actually used this product yet? It says they have been track tested, but man I'd hate to have them fail at 100mph. Has anyone run these on your car? Report? You like 'em?

I DO like the fact that they are less than HALF the price of some of the Japanese units out there . . .

Thanks!

EVOlutionary

donour

iTrader: (6)

They are probably plenty strong for that application. That link doesn't see as much stress as, for example, the trailing arm.

You could probably make your own for cheaper. Just do the same thing I did with endlinks but get the crazy big 10k lb heim joints.

donour

fixem2

iTrader: (30)

Anyone have a good parts list to make your own? Could be a good project.

Thomas Chagrin

iTrader: (5)

I am interested in possibly getting these, myself. Any further reviews? Keepin' this thread alive! :-)

I possibly want them because it seems that it's difficult (impossible?) to simultaneously get the rear toe to 0 and get the rear camber where you want it. Please please PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong here. The shop doing my alignment can't seem to give me both -1.3 to -1.5 degrees rear camber AND zero toe. One will be off if they give me the other. Frustrating.

My current set-up consists of:

Bilstein HD struts
GT Worx springs
Stock sway bars front and rear
Stock bushings (no Whiteline or urethane pieces)
18X9+30 wheels
245/40/18 Bridgestone RE01-R's

I'm going for 0 toe front and rear, -1.5 degrees camber in front, and -1.3 to -1.5 degrees camber rear. This is mainly a street application that may see an occasional track day.

Thanks for any info!

~Steve

Zeus

iTrader: (66)

I'll try and remember to ask WHO is racing on them next time I talk with Megan. I will say this, they do a lot of drift competitions, but I'm not sure what else.

GTWORX.com

iTrader: (35)

Steve/Thomas,

How much camber do you get when you have zero toe?

- Andrew

Thomas Chagrin

iTrader: (5)

I watched them do the alignment and the rear camber was at about -1.6 or -1.7 with a little toe-in. I don't have the exact results because they were unable to print it all out (sigh...) and I honetly don't remember. It may have ended up closer to -1.5 with some toe-in. They claimed that the rear toe would go to toe out while driving if it was set at zero, which I didn't buy. In the end, I don't really think that they gave me what I asked for. I'm ready to get toe plates and camber equipment and do this myself like the race guys at the track... :-( I saw that turning the camber bolt on the rear control arm affects toe. How would you set those independently? I have half a desire to get those rear toe links, but there isn't tons of info about them available. I don't know, I'm kinda frustrated. Maybe everything is "good enough". "Good enough" just isn't how I normally do things, though.

~Steve

EVOlutionary

iTrader: (38)

Exactly. On a car that is lowered much, if you try to run less than ~1.75" neg camber in the rear, you run out of toe adjustment before you get to Zero toe. For example (and every car will be a bit different) if you try to run -1.0* rear camber you may be stuck with a minimum of 1" toe out!

The adjustable links allow you to pull the rear toe "IN" more to get it to zero. . .

I have the Unlimited Works (Cyber EVO) rear toe links and they are superbly crafted. Spherical bearings on each end, and you can even adjust the bump steer curves a bit with spacers. . .

EVOlutionary

Thomas Chagrin

iTrader: (5)

Thank you for the information! I really appreciate it. Are the Unlimited Works links available somewhere? I'm assuming that they are of Japanese origin...

Thanks for any info you can provide!

~Steve

EVOlutionary

iTrader: (38)

Rear Toe Control Rods
http://www.green.dti.ne.jp/unlimited...l/rod/rod.html

Front Tie Rod Ends
http://www.green.dti.ne.jp/unlimited...od/tierod.html

Got them from Eric @ Driveline. He is a vendor on here, and great to work with. . .

EVOlutionary

nightwalker

It IS hard to get the rear camber and toe to cooperate on an Evo. TRUST me, I've aligned tons of them. No two are the same though, which is the unusual thing about our cars. I'm going to get a set for mine.

Bster13

iTrader: (2)

I'm a total suspension newbie, but do lower control arms = Anti-roll Bar Endlinks?

If so, here are homemade ones and parts list:

http://www.cs.unm.edu/~donour/cars/evo_endlinks/

(pictures look similar to me anyway *shrugs*)


GL!

EVOlutionary

iTrader: (38)

Looks similar - but two different animals. The ASB end links connect the end of the sway bar to the control arm. This transmits body roll forces from the control arm to the sway bar which is in essence a big spring. It helps to minimize body roll in corners. . .

The Toe Control arms I posted a link to above go between the chassis and the rear wheel. As the rear wheel moves up and down they guide it's path and tries to keep the wheel pointing straight ahead. If you make them longer you get more toe out. If you make them shorter you get more toe in. Changing the toe (the angle the tire points in or out relative to "straight ahead") can affect how the car reacts in corners and to bumps. . .

Hope that helps. . . .

Bster13

iTrader: (2)

thx for the explanation....perhaps the link I sent will give u some ideas to build your own like donour stated.