j14mp

iTrader: (3)

My ferodos squeal SO BAD lol but I like it

radicalmarkSRT

Well it depends, sometimes you get some sand in there, or if the pads are running low you'll hit the little metal things that are there to tell you they're low (forgot what they're called) Did you recently install them?

Mr. Evo IX

iTrader: (5)

Vibration causes brake squeal. Properly greasing the backs of the pads, both sides of the shims, and the pins, and proper bedding makes them not squeal. My Ferrodo's rarely if ever squeal.

Gamble

iTrader: (11)

Or lots of brake dust.

sith_killer_99

iTrader: (2)

It's a common problem with Nissan brakes, my 240sx brakes squeal within 100 miles of install. lol

Proper install, and break in can help a lot as mentioned. There are also a few products out there designed to eliminate/reduce break squeal.

Smike

iTrader: (8)

Take the pads off and apply brake squeal silencing silicone. Its red or orange color at the auto parts store.

Apply it to the back of the pads and allow for it to dry. Reinstall and see what happens.

j14mp

iTrader: (3)

well they work great but I've read that some brands of pads can cause lots of squealing. I mean the pads are all brand new minus the fronts which had like 200 miles on them. I honestly dont mind it as long as it will stop me. Just wasnt sure if its the material or the pad or something fancy like that. The fronts dont squeal, its my rear ferodo pads that squeal, the fronts are OEM.

Girodisc Martin

iTrader: (71)

Most cars have a standard caged caliper which has a damper in it because there are only pistons on one side. EVOs have a fixed Brembo caliper which has no dampers.

The squeaking you are hearing is the pads itself vibrating as it makes contact with the rotor and the harmonic vibration is resonating though the caliper and making the noise.

There are many factors that make this vibration occur, a cretin amount of brake pressure, the pad material, poor fitment of the pad, etc...

There are many pads that have special anti-noise shims to help eliminate this vibration but its never a guarantee because every car is different. and ever rotor surface is different as well.

If you think of it as vibration it can help you determine what you need to do to get rid of it. If your rotor is grooved and shinny then you can assume that the rotor surface is not uniform and the pads have glazed over. This will make the it harder for the pad to dig into the rotor to apply friction so it will "skip" across the surface and you have vibration. You can try sanding your rotors and pads with some 120g sand paper to give the pad a fresh surface to dig into. If your rotors are really bad then having them turned or replacing them would be the next option. If you replace your rotors or have them turned make sure to look at your pads, if there are uneven ware marks have the pad cut flat or replace it. If you install an uneven pad the pad will ware the rotor unevenly and you will have the same marks in your new or turned set as you did in your old ones.

If you rotor looks fine and its still making noise look at the caliper and make sure its secure, also check to make sure the pad is fitting snug inside the caliper. If it is loose then the play in the caliper will promote the pad to jump around in the caliper body and make noise. Some pad makers use a laser to cut out their backing plates and thats the best way but some just press the shape out and sometime the backing plate can be a little to small or instead of a flat edge on the side it looks more like a pinch to the pad isn't seating into the caliper properly. You can grind the sides of the pad flat to help it fit better but not to much or it will be to loose in the caliper body.

You can also dampen the place where the pad contacts the caliper with anti-squeal goo and this will help get rid of the play in the pad. Make sure to put it on the sides of the pad where is runs inside the caliper because that is where most of the vibration will come from. You can also use an anti noise shim which unlike the thin metal tab found on the stock pads it is a larger thicker piece with a Teflon coating on both sides to help the pad basically stick that pad to the caliper piston and eliminate play.

There are many pads out there that will squeak no matter what you do. But there are also others that should squeak but don't for years and its all based on the these factors. Every car is different so you need to look at it that way, look at your own brakes to determine whats making this vibration because what might squeak on your car might not squeak on another.

Ferreira

I'm an engineer with a racing brake company and there's too many reasons to go in depth on here. Adding chanfers to the pad takes some noise away, same with a vertical slot right though the middle of the friction material. But in some pads noise is inherent because of the compounds and under layer material. And on the race compounds its going to be performance first. Also slotted disks will make more noise than dimpled. But what it comes down to is heat and transfer layer. What compound ferodo did you get 2500 or 3000?

Also, the poster above mentioned about the pad being snug vs lose. Well on a street only application you can get away with it, but in a race application you dont want the pad to be free and have enough tolerance for the heat expanssion rate differences between the pad backing plate and the caliper abutments. You definitely DONT want to have snug pad on the caliper.

Regards