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Coilover recomendations, HELP please.

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Old Jul 1, 2009, 01:23 AM
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Coilover recomendations, HELP please.

Wow, and I thought I understood suspension and chassis setups for AutoX when I used to run the Rockamaro(Camaro for you non rednecks)...lol. But after reading the suspension setups in some of these threads, I am baffled, confused, and could really use a little help.

Project specs: DD 400 WHP/AutoX/Canyon carving 2004 EVO 8 GSR

Current configuration:
Stock struts fitted with Espiller ASD Springs...
Issues I am noticing: On the freeway, at 65 MPH, if I try to stop fast, my *** wants to slide out... Do not know why... 85 degrees outside, sunny, no oil or water on road, and tires are inflated correctly, etc. Completly baffled? Felt like my rearend was on grease. Tires have 5000 miles on them, and are the Yokohama Avid V4s--> http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....&AID=10398365& note: I will use other tires for AutoX, this is just what I am running on the street.

I have new rotors, and brake pads. I am utilizing slotted/drilled rotors. 6 slots, and 4 cross drills between each slot per rotor. 2000 miles on new brake setup. Not a big brake kit, but upgraded rotors none the less. My stock rotors litterly have a raised outer edge, as though the brakes squeezed so tight as to dig into the inner surface of the rotors, or they have been heated way to much, and caused warpage, dont even think they can be turned. Came that way on the car.

Parts I am looking at:
Option A:
BC BR Coilovers
Perrin Stoutmounts
Cusco SubFrame(Lower Center Power Braces)

Option B:
Pillow Mounts for current config
Stoute Mount for current config
New Struts for current config(mine have 70K...yup... stockers)
Energy Suspension master kit
Cusco Subframes(Lower Center power braces)

Has any one heard of killabee from Austrailia? Reviews?

Has any one heard of D2? Reviews?

I also read in another thread that BC/BR are the same manufacturer of the Megan Coilovers? Any truth to this?

I understand that we are AWD, VS. the power of the RWD camaro...
Some recommend tuning the chassis for a FWD car.

Spring rates suggestions I have read are going with a stiffer in the rear, rather than front. I also realize that some of you dont think that coilovers are good for a DD car or street use.

BC utilizes the 8kg/6kg setup. If the stiffer in the rear holds true, have some of you had success switching the rear springs to the front, and visa versa? Does someone even know if it is possible?

If not, what other options do I have for coilovers that won't break the bank?

Thank you in advance for any suggestions or schooling you can provide.

Last edited by Raceghost; Jul 1, 2009 at 02:14 AM.
Old Jul 1, 2009, 06:03 AM
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1. Rotors do not warp. Its a misconception. You have pad material transfer. When rotors get thinner they heat up more. That can cause some pad material to stick to the rotor surface.

2. Subframe connectors do not do very much. We already have some down there.

3. Never heard of Killabee.

4. D2 are crap.

5. BC does make Megans.

6. The new BCs supposedly have an 7k / 8k spring rating. Which is better then the 8/6. But yes, you can swap them around if you got an older set.

7. There are no options for coil-overs. You get what you pay for. Go cheap/entry level - get cheap/entry level. The problem with them is that the valving is all over the place. The adjustments do not do very much (on the shock dynos that I have seen), and they are not rebuildable. These companies solution is to just send you a new part for X moneys.

---
Your symptoms sound more like your front struts are going out. Your options are to: get new struts and keep the springs, get stiffer springs and new struts, use a coil-over.
Old Jul 1, 2009, 06:07 AM
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Stance.
Old Jul 1, 2009, 09:12 AM
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6. The new BCs supposedly have an 7k / 8k spring rating. Which is better then the 8/6. But yes, you can swap them around if you got an older set.

7. There are no options for coil-overs. You get what you pay for. Go cheap/entry level - get cheap/entry level. The problem with them is that the valving is all over the place. The adjustments do not do very much (on the shock dynos that I have seen), and they are not rebuildable. These companies solution is to just send you a new part for X moneys.

---
Your symptoms sound more like your front struts are going out. Your options are to: get new struts and keep the springs, get stiffer springs and new struts, use a coil-over.
Thanks Smike, if I can, will you give me a little more of your advice please, lol?
Which BC's have the 7/8?

Reversing the old BC Spring rate, will do what exactly, in terms of sacrifice?

I know you get wha tyou pay for. There was a review written about the BC's being a $2G setup in a relatively inexpensive option. I was wondering if any one else had read about another company doing the same thing.

So knowing your bios on the whole Coilover on the street thing, what about my option B there instead?

Option B:
Pillow Mounts for current config
Stoute Mount for current config
New Struts for current config(mine have 70K...yup... stockers)
Energy Suspension master kit
Any recomendations for the Struts, to match with my Espillir ASD's? I searched for hours last night on line, and could not find a single like OEM replacment from any company.

Also, I thought the Espilirs were one of the stiffest springs for sport out there, with out going to coilovers?

Thanks again
Old Jul 1, 2009, 09:21 AM
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I remember a vendor stating they would be available with the 7/8k range. I know Megan has changed their street versions (same manufacture).

Reversing springs is fine in most cases.

BCs should be less than 2k, for 2k you can get some mid-high level coil-overs.

Option B:
There are some replacement options - used KYBs, used Bilstein MRs, and new Bilstein HDs.

I run Bilstein HDs and Swift Spec Rs:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-comments.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-reviewed.html

Swift Spec Rs are the stiffest you can get.
Old Jul 1, 2009, 10:08 AM
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A quick thing about your wandering....umm.....***....under braking. I would check your alignment, especially rear toe. Sounds like it's toed out a bit right now and it would be a little better at 0.

Could also be blown crappy old dampers, but I would lean towards alignment first.

I agree with Smike on pretty much everything else.

- Andrew

Last edited by GTWORX.com; Jul 1, 2009 at 04:31 PM.
Old Jul 1, 2009, 10:54 AM
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BCs should be less than 2k, for 2k you can get some mid-high level coil-overs.
Correct. I can get them for around 1G. In the review done on this forum about the BC's, it stated that they infact handle and are built like most of the midrange higher priced coilovers.
I was pretty convinced for my style, that they would be a good intermediate range coilover, that would give great benifits to both worlds.

I would check your alignment, especially rear toe. Sounds like it's toed out a bit right now and it would be a little better at 0.
I had it aligned about 7 months ago, and have not had any hard bumps or issues that I thought would cause the aligment to go...but deffinilty will be getting it aligned. Also,concidering that the stock struts are at 70k miles, I am pretty sure a replacement is needed.

Thanks again guys.

EDIT: Oh, one more thing. What would one expect to pay for the KYB's or Bilsteins for 4 corners?
And to get good handling, what else would I want to concider upgrading when going to the coilover setup? Expecially if I reverse the spring rate from front to rear, and visa versa?

Last edited by Raceghost; Jul 1, 2009 at 11:00 AM.
Old Jul 1, 2009, 11:09 AM
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200-400 For KYB or used MRs all four corners.

I would start there if going c/os then change parts one at a time (roll center kit), etc.
Old Jul 1, 2009, 11:20 AM
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I personally don't like the idea of buying used struts unless you reaaally know where they came from and the wear and tear on them. For what its worth, I really like my EnduraTech coilovers with 7k/9k springs. They are not unbearable on the street and have been great so far on the track. If you are looking to spend more than 1k and less than 2, I would look at EnduraTechs or I have been reading good things about Stance. Be prepared to spend an additional chunk of change to properly align and possibly corner balance your set up (like $400 for a good alignment and corner balance).
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