LV///R

iTrader: (36)

You are very welcome!


Here's the Koni info:

Suggested Adjustment Procedure for Auto Cross Use

Adjusting the Compression (Bump) Damping Control

Bump damping controls the unsprung weight of the vehicle (wheels, axles, etc.). It controls the upward movement of the suspension such as hitting a bump in the track. It should not be used to control the downward movement of the vehicle when it encounters dips. Also, it should not be used to control roll or bottoming.

Depending on the vehicle, the ideal bump setting can occur at any point within the adjustment range. This setting will be reached when "side-hop" or "walking" in a bumpy turn is minimal and the ride is not uncomfortably harsh. At any point other than this ideal setting, the "side-hopping" condition will be more pronounced and the ride may be too harsh.

1. Set all four dampers on minimum bump and minimum rebound settings. Drive one or two laps to get the feel of the car.

NOTE: When driving the car during the bump adjustment phase, disregard body lean or roll and concentrate solely on how the car feels over bumps. Also, try to notice if the car "walks" or "side-hops" on a rough turn. Increase bump adjustment clockwise 3 clicks on all four dampers. Drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until a point is reached where the car starts to feel hard over bumpy surfaces. Back off the bump adjustment two clicks. The bump control is now set. NOTE:Â The back off point will likely be reached sooner on one end of the vehicle than the other. If this occurs, keep increasing the bump on the soft end until it too feels too hard. Then back that side off two clicks. The bump control is now set.


Adjusting the Rebound Damping Control
Once you have found what you feel to be the best bump setting on all four wheels, you are now ready to proceed with adjusting the rebound damping. The rebound damping controls the transitional roll (lean) as when entering a turn. It does not limit the total amount of roll; it does limit how fast this total roll angle is achieved. How much the vehicle actually leans is determined by other things such as spring rate, sway bars, roll center heights, etc.

It should be noted that too much rebound damping on either end of the vehicle will cause an initial loss of lateral acceleration (cornering power) at that end which will cause the vehicle to oversteer or understeer excessively when entering a turn. Too much rebound control in relation to spring rate will cause a condition known as "jacking down." This is a condition where, after hitting a bump and compressing the spring, the damper does not allow the spring to return to a neutral position before the next bump is encountered. This repeats with each subsequent bump until the car is actually lowered onto the bump stops. Contact with the bump stops causes a drastic increase in roll stiffness. If this condition occurs on the front, the car will understeer; if it occurs on the rear, the car will oversteer.

1. 1. With the rebound set on full soft and the bump control set from your testing, drive the car one or two laps, paying attention to how the car rolls when entering a turn.

2. 2. Increase rebound damping three sweeps or 3/4 of a turn on all four dampers and drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until the car enters the turns smoothly (no drastic attitude changes) and without leaning excessively. Any increase in the rebound stiffness beyond this point is unnecessary and may in fact be detrimental.

EXCEPTION: It may be desirable to have a car that assumes an oversteering or understeering attitude when entering a turn. This preference, of course, will vary from one driver to another depending on the individual driving style.





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Drag Racing Setup

STEP 1:

Prior to testing make certain that the wheelie bars are raised as high as possible while maintaining control and eliminating their influence as much as possible on damper settings.


STEP 2:

Place all damping controls on minimum. Make a pass in first and second gears in order to determine that the car goes straight. If not the alignment, tire pressure, etc. should be corrected before proceeding any further.

Pay close attention to what occurs during gear change. If the car wheelstands or violently proceed to step 3 and then to step 4. However, if there is rear tire shake, wheel hop or excessive body separation proceed first to Step 4 and then to Step 3.


STEP 3: FRONT DAMPER ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

Pay close attention to what is happening to the front end during launch and the first gear change. Your goal is to eliminate all jerking and/or bouncing movements so as to obtain smooth transitions at all times.

Too Light of a damper setting allows violent chassis separation and may even result in jerking the front wheels off the ground during initial launch. Too light a setting allows the car, during gear change to bounce off its front rebound travel limiter and then bottom out in a continually oscillating manner.

Too Firm of a damper setting will prevent the tires from easily lifting off the ground and thus providing sufficient weight transfer. During a gear change a firm setting will also cause the chassis to bounce off the tire when the chassis settles down.

Adjust the damper by increasing the rebound damping in 1/4 turn (90 degree) increments until a smooth transition from launch through gear change has been achieved. If double adjustable KONI's are used, adjust the bump damping in three click increments to control the amount and the rate at which your front end settles during gear change. Watch your ET's and your times start to get slower back off the rebound adjustment by 1/4 turn and the bump adjustments by 2 clicks.


STEP 4: REAR DAMPER ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

Pay close attention to the rear of the car as your goal is to dampen the tire movements as firm as track conditions permit. Remember that the damper controls the amount and the rate of weight transfer to the tire.

Too Light of a damper setting allows excessive separation between the body and the tire.

Too Firm of a hamper setting allows high tire shock and causes extreme flattening of the tire.

Adjust the rear damper in 1/4 turn (90 degree) increments of rebound adjustment and if KONI double adjustable are used increase the bump adjuster by three clicks for each pass. Watch your ET's and if your times start to get slower reduce the amount of adjustment by 1/4 turn of rebound adjustment and 2 clicks of bump adjustment.

STEP 5:

When all adjustments have been completed reset your wheelie bars as low as possible without hurting your ET. Once you have completed this procedure only fine adjustments may be needed in the future due to varying track conditions.







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Suggested Adjustment Procedure for Road Course Use

Adjusting the Compression (Bump) Damping Control

Bump damping controls the unsprung weight of the vehicle (wheels, axles, etc.). It controls the upward movement of the suspension such as hitting a bump in the track. It should not be used to control the downward movement of the vehicle when it encounters dips. Also, it should not be used to control roll or bottoming.

Depending on the vehicle, the ideal bump setting can occur at any point within the adjustment range. This setting will be reached when "side-hop" or "walking" in a bumpy turn is minimal and the ride is not uncomfortably harsh. At any point other than this ideal setting, the "side-hopping" condition will be more pronounced and the ride may be too harsh.

1. Set all four dampers on minimum bump and minimum rebound settings.

2. Drive one or two laps to get the feel of the car.
NOTE: When driving the car during the bump adjustment phase, disregard body lean or roll and concentrate solely on how the car feels over bumps. Also, try to notice if the car "walks" or "side-hops" on a rough turn.

3. Increase bump adjustment clockwise 3 clicks on all four dampers. Drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until a point is reached where the car starts to feel hard over bumpy surfaces.

4. Back off the bump adjustment two clicks. The bump control is now set.

NOTE: The back off point will likely be reached sooner on one end of the vehicle than the other. If this occurs, keep increasing the bump on the soft end until it too feels too hard. Then back that side off two clicks. The bump control is now set.

Adjusting the Rebound Damping Control
Once you have found what you feel to be the best bump setting on all four wheels, you are now ready to proceed with adjusting the rebound damping. The rebound damping controls the transitional roll (lean) as when entering a turn. It does not limit the total amount of roll; it does limit how fast this total roll angle is achieved. How much the vehicle actually leans is determined by other things such as spring rate, sway bars, roll center heights, etc.

It should be noted that too much rebound damping on either end of the vehicle will cause an initial loss of lateral acceleration (cornering power) at that end which will cause the vehicle to oversteer or understeer excessively when entering a turn. Too much rebound control in relation to spring rate will cause a condition known as "jacking down." This is a condition where, after hitting a bump and compressing the spring, the damper does not allow the spring to return to a neutral position before the next bump is encountered. This repeats with each subsequent bump until the car is actually lowered onto the bump stops. Contact with the bump stops causes a drastic increase in roll stiffness. If this condition occurs on the front, the car will understeer; if it occurs on the rear, the car will oversteer.



1. With the rebound set on full soft and the bump control set from your testing, drive the car one or two laps, paying attention to how the car rolls when entering a turn.


2. Increase rebound damping three sweeps or 3/4 of a turn on all four dampers and drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until the car enters the turns smoothly (no drastic attitude changes) and without leaning excessively. Any increase in the rebound stiffness beyond this point is unnecessary and may in fact be detrimental.

EXCEPTION: It may be desirable to have a car that assumes an oversteering or understeering attitude when entering a turn. This preference, of course, will vary from one driver to another depending on the individual driving style.



There ya go.

Lancerguy'03

iTrader: (8)

wow that is a great read!! thank you... finally....and yes i know that my adjustments are different but the idea is the same....THANK YOU!!!

and if anyone else has anything to say please do...the more info the better.


so pretty much set everything to the softest settings and adjust the bump 1st then rebound till everything feels good to me. cool. that is kind of what the KW-set up instructions say (except they say go full stiff and turn it down, hrm), but the KW instructions dont explain it that well. but now that I have 2 sets of instructions i can finally get some work done.


just curious what do you have your car set at? like the ratio of bump to rebound?

LV///R

iTrader: (36)

Glad I can help; you are welcome! Enjoy 'em! I just got a set of robispec clubsports, and am itching for spring to roll around so I can dial them in for autox's!

Thoe99

iTrader: (25)

Generally speaking, does autocross use require more bump and rebound than road course?

Bassicfun

iTrader: (10)

I would say yes... IN GENERAL, always exceptions.

Thoe99

iTrader: (25)

Can someone clarify what it means to "side-hop" or "walk"?

Lancerguy'03

iTrader: (8)

i think he means Bump Steer....like when you are going around a turn that is bumpy and the car feels like its moving around, or the steering wheel moves.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bump_steer

GTWORX.com

iTrader: (35)

Bumpsteer is a different term that has to do with alignment/geometry changes through the range of motion of the suspension. It does not have to occur over what you would normally call bumps. It can feel similar, but is different than side-hop/walk. They are commonly mixed up terms.

Sidehop or walk or "skipping" occurs over sharper bumps or uneven pavement in a corner when a tire loses contact with the ground and there is a momentary loss of grip. This does not have to do with geometry, but is usually an issue with excessive high piston speed damping or spring rates that are too stiff, or a lack of travel.

- drew