Alignment questions
May 15, 2010, 03:53 AM
#1
Alignment questions
If I want to extend the life of my tires would it be a good idea to zero (0/0) my camber and toe? I'm not sure what my toe is set at currently but I know my camber is roughly -2/-3.
I'm trying to save money right now for the build in my sig, which is why I'm currently looking into the Sumitomo HTR Z II because they're really cheap, and I'd like to extend the life of those tires by pretty much zeroing my alignment specs.
Yay?/Nay?
I'm trying to save money right now for the build in my sig, which is why I'm currently looking into the Sumitomo HTR Z II because they're really cheap, and I'd like to extend the life of those tires by pretty much zeroing my alignment specs.
Yay?/Nay?
May 15, 2010, 04:58 AM
#3
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When I went in to get the alignment on my Evo when I was daily driving it I just told the tech that I wanted maximum tire life. I think he put very little toe (you will still want some but only 0.5 or something like that) and zero camber or maybe it was the other way around. Either way the car still handled very well and my tires have over 15k on them and show only the slightest wear. They are stock Evo X rims and tires just for comparison. They usually wear very quickly.
Josh
Josh
May 15, 2010, 04:27 PM
#5
When I went in to get the alignment on my Evo when I was daily driving it I just told the tech that I wanted maximum tire life. I think he put very little toe (you will still want some but only 0.5 or something like that) and zero camber or maybe it was the other way around. Either way the car still handled very well and my tires have over 15k on them and show only the slightest wear. They are stock Evo X rims and tires just for comparison. They usually wear very quickly.
Josh
Josh
May 15, 2010, 07:28 PM
#6
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May 16, 2010, 06:58 AM
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Pretty sure that they would so long as a knowledgable tech is there. When I had coilovers he set them however I asked. He would give me printout afterwards to show me where each whell was before and after.
May 17, 2010, 02:58 AM
#10
Haha, I would have never guessed Firestone has a good suspension tech. I'll see if they can hook me up when I get the tires.
What do you guys have to say about the Sumitomo HTR Z II? I'm not looking for a track tire. All I'm looking for is to get as many miles out of them as I can. Saving for my build is top priority right now. Thanks.
What do you guys have to say about the Sumitomo HTR Z II? I'm not looking for a track tire. All I'm looking for is to get as many miles out of them as I can. Saving for my build is top priority right now. Thanks.
May 18, 2010, 02:45 PM
#11
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Don't cheap out on tires. Remember that tires are the only things between you and the road. Why put a bunch of money into the "build" and then put crappy tires on the car?
Go 0 toe all around. Maybe a little rear toe-in if you're going to a high-speed track, for high-speed stability.
Factory camber should be fine for the street, which is around 1 degree. Flip the front strut bolt for 2 degrees if you're tracking or if you want a more aggressive street setup. The alignment tech should be able to square it up for you.
Can't adjust caster with the factory setup--if it's really out of spec, then something is bent, like a control arm.
Remember to check your tire pressures before the alignment. If you're going to buy new tires, do it before the alignment.
Go 0 toe all around. Maybe a little rear toe-in if you're going to a high-speed track, for high-speed stability.
Factory camber should be fine for the street, which is around 1 degree. Flip the front strut bolt for 2 degrees if you're tracking or if you want a more aggressive street setup. The alignment tech should be able to square it up for you.
Can't adjust caster with the factory setup--if it's really out of spec, then something is bent, like a control arm.
Remember to check your tire pressures before the alignment. If you're going to buy new tires, do it before the alignment.
May 18, 2010, 07:51 PM
#13
Don't cheap out on tires. Remember that tires are the only things between you and the road. Why put a bunch of money into the "build" and then put crappy tires on the car?
Go 0 toe all around. Maybe a little rear toe-in if you're going to a high-speed track, for high-speed stability.
Factory camber should be fine for the street, which is around 1 degree. Flip the front strut bolt for 2 degrees if you're tracking or if you want a more aggressive street setup. The alignment tech should be able to square it up for you.
Can't adjust caster with the factory setup--if it's really out of spec, then something is bent, like a control arm.
Remember to check your tire pressures before the alignment. If you're going to buy new tires, do it before the alignment.
Go 0 toe all around. Maybe a little rear toe-in if you're going to a high-speed track, for high-speed stability.
Factory camber should be fine for the street, which is around 1 degree. Flip the front strut bolt for 2 degrees if you're tracking or if you want a more aggressive street setup. The alignment tech should be able to square it up for you.
Can't adjust caster with the factory setup--if it's really out of spec, then something is bent, like a control arm.
Remember to check your tire pressures before the alignment. If you're going to buy new tires, do it before the alignment.
By no means is the build done yet. When I'm approaching completion then I'll save for decent tires. But for now I want cheap ones so I still have money for the build.
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