Looking for input from Evo members with significant setup experience
Aug 7, 2010, 08:27 PM
#152
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My experience with the rear diff upgrade from TRE was very similar (and positive) to yours.
I am still dialing things in with the new setup, but I'm pretty certain the rear diff is making the car noticeably quicker. It was doing the same inside-rear wheelspin you were experiencing prior to the new diff. Now it just rotates. I was sideways through the finish lights on our last autox course at ~60mph. Never would've done that before the diff! And certainly not with any control.
Also a big +1 for the CBRD turbos. Our BBK-Full is absolutely awesome, peak torque is only delayed by ~150rpm over the stock unit (on the same dyno, 4th gear...) but the power difference is over 100whp @ 7000 rpm (and the gains are larger past that.) The stock turbo doesn't really seem bad until you experience a well-thought-out aftermarket unit.
Good luck with your continued progress!
I am still dialing things in with the new setup, but I'm pretty certain the rear diff is making the car noticeably quicker. It was doing the same inside-rear wheelspin you were experiencing prior to the new diff. Now it just rotates. I was sideways through the finish lights on our last autox course at ~60mph. Never would've done that before the diff! And certainly not with any control.
Also a big +1 for the CBRD turbos. Our BBK-Full is absolutely awesome, peak torque is only delayed by ~150rpm over the stock unit (on the same dyno, 4th gear...) but the power difference is over 100whp @ 7000 rpm (and the gains are larger past that.) The stock turbo doesn't really seem bad until you experience a well-thought-out aftermarket unit.
Good luck with your continued progress!
Aug 7, 2010, 10:00 PM
#153
I'm REALLY considering buying a CBRD turbo's versus the FP turbo's. I have a suspicion that the CBRD turbo's are going to have better response without leaving much power on the table.
I'd like to talk to chad about a Dual Ball Bearing version... with maybe a TiAL turbine wheel and a hollow titanium shaft....Billet compressor wheel...titanium locking nut. Go nuts.
I'd like to talk to chad about a Dual Ball Bearing version... with maybe a TiAL turbine wheel and a hollow titanium shaft....Billet compressor wheel...titanium locking nut. Go nuts.
Aug 7, 2010, 10:09 PM
#154
I'm REALLY considering buying a CBRD turbo's versus the FP turbo's. I have a suspicion that the CBRD turbo's are going to have better response without leaving much power on the table.
I'd like to talk to chad about a Dual Ball Bearing version... with maybe a TiAL turbine wheel and a hollow titanium shaft....Billet compressor wheel...titanium locking nut. Go nuts.
I'd like to talk to chad about a Dual Ball Bearing version... with maybe a TiAL turbine wheel and a hollow titanium shaft....Billet compressor wheel...titanium locking nut. Go nuts.
Aug 9, 2010, 07:43 AM
#155
Now I know what you mean when you were talking about the car wanting the push its way around the course. I did my first autox in my stock evo 8 (I won my class but that's besides the point :P) and the car was understeering EVERYWHERE. I was running 36f/39r which seemed to help alittle. I should have bumped the front to 39 also.
I haven't done any suspension mods yet either. Still on stock camber, springs, sway bars, etc with 235/45/17 RE050A's.
Bart
OAKOS Automotive
I haven't done any suspension mods yet either. Still on stock camber, springs, sway bars, etc with 235/45/17 RE050A's.
Bart
OAKOS Automotive
Aug 9, 2010, 09:37 AM
#156
Bart,
Get some springs at least to resist roll… you’re most likely close to running on the bumpstops. The swift springs are pretty nice without going to coilovers. Run as much camber as you can in the front… literally. Like -3 degrees in the front ~ 1.5 in the rear. And GET THE TRE DIFF.
Get some springs at least to resist roll… you’re most likely close to running on the bumpstops. The swift springs are pretty nice without going to coilovers. Run as much camber as you can in the front… literally. Like -3 degrees in the front ~ 1.5 in the rear. And GET THE TRE DIFF.
Aug 9, 2010, 09:40 AM
#157
New parts/service for the upcoming Event... zero of which are currently installed.
Recaro Seat + belts
Remove AC
Beatrush Differential bushings
**QM Aluminum 2pc Driveshaft**
Corner Balance
Alignment
Change Engine oil
Change Diff fluid
I'm shooting for 1:10:xx's and Scott's shooting for 1:07:9x's
Recaro Seat + belts
Remove AC
Beatrush Differential bushings
**QM Aluminum 2pc Driveshaft**
Corner Balance
Alignment
Change Engine oil
Change Diff fluid
I'm shooting for 1:10:xx's and Scott's shooting for 1:07:9x's
Aug 9, 2010, 10:00 AM
#158
Bart,
Get some springs at least to resist roll… you’re most likely close to running on the bumpstops. The swift springs are pretty nice without going to coilovers. Run as much camber as you can in the front… literally. Like -3 degrees in the front ~ 1.5 in the rear. And GET THE TRE DIFF.
Get some springs at least to resist roll… you’re most likely close to running on the bumpstops. The swift springs are pretty nice without going to coilovers. Run as much camber as you can in the front… literally. Like -3 degrees in the front ~ 1.5 in the rear. And GET THE TRE DIFF.
).I'll be getting a set of Swift Sports soon hopefully and I'll be doing the camber bolt flip mod for the next even. I don't want to do too much though because I want to see how much each mod actually affects handling.
To the bumpstops remark, I 100% agree. My friends who were watching me run said my front was basically at full compression during the first turn (sharp 90*)...
Bart
OAKOS Automotive
Aug 9, 2010, 11:12 AM
#159
Remember too Bart. Your spring rate depends on your grip level. So if you STAY with 235's those swifts will work well. If you jump to an R comp that's 255 or wider you're going to need a LOT more spring and a LOT more damper.
With an alignment and better springs... you will feel a bit better on slow speed turns, but running flat out you're going to still push like before... but you may be able to wallow in understeer a little less.
Your roll stiffness in the front isn't even close. You have at LEAST 900 pounds on each of the front tires (unsprung mass) Your left front is going to be higher than the right front as well.
Idk how far the swift kit lowers the front, but I would advise getting the Whiteline Roll center/bump steer correct kit. By raising your roll center you increase your effective roll stiffness (allows your springs to become more effective once you're lowered)
On the autocrosses I like running retarded amounts of toe out in the front. I ran almost a .400"of toe out last event. If you want to try it out...i recommend running at LEAST 1/4" toe out (combined L&F)
Without the diff you'll need to run less camber in the rear and maybe a RCH of toe out.
I would honestly buy the diff first and then tune yoursetup around it. Otherwise you're starting down a path that you'll have to double back on later on.
With an alignment and better springs... you will feel a bit better on slow speed turns, but running flat out you're going to still push like before... but you may be able to wallow in understeer a little less.
Your roll stiffness in the front isn't even close. You have at LEAST 900 pounds on each of the front tires (unsprung mass) Your left front is going to be higher than the right front as well.
Idk how far the swift kit lowers the front, but I would advise getting the Whiteline Roll center/bump steer correct kit. By raising your roll center you increase your effective roll stiffness (allows your springs to become more effective once you're lowered)
On the autocrosses I like running retarded amounts of toe out in the front. I ran almost a .400"of toe out last event. If you want to try it out...i recommend running at LEAST 1/4" toe out (combined L&F)
Without the diff you'll need to run less camber in the rear and maybe a RCH of toe out.
I would honestly buy the diff first and then tune yoursetup around it. Otherwise you're starting down a path that you'll have to double back on later on.
Last edited by R/TErnie; Aug 9, 2010 at 11:14 AM.
Aug 9, 2010, 12:21 PM
#160
Remember too Bart. Your spring rate depends on your grip level. So if you STAY with 235's those swifts will work well. If you jump to an R comp that's 255 or wider you're going to need a LOT more spring and a LOT more damper.
It's my DD, the widest I'll be getting is 245/40/17 (no 18's or R Comp for me). Should I look into SWIFT Sports instead?
With an alignment and better springs... you will feel a bit better on slow speed turns, but running flat out you're going to still push like before... but you may be able to wallow in understeer a little less.
As long as it reduces the amount of understeer I was getting, I'll be satisfied.
Your roll stiffness in the front isn't even close. You have at LEAST 900 pounds on each of the front tires (unsprung mass) Your left front is going to be higher than the right front as well.
Idk how far the swift kit lowers the front, but I would advise getting the Whiteline Roll center/bump steer correct kit. By raising your roll center you increase your effective roll stiffness (allows your springs to become more effective once you're lowered)
I believe they lower 1.5f/.8r respectively.
On the autocrosses I like running retarded amounts of toe out in the front. I ran almost a .400"of toe out last event. If you want to try it out...i recommend running at LEAST 1/4" toe out (combined L&F)
I'm trying to make my tires last here
Without the diff you'll need to run less camber in the rear and maybe a RCH of toe out.
I would honestly buy the diff first and then tune yoursetup around it. Otherwise you're starting down a path that you'll have to double back on later on.
How much does the rear diff cost?
It's my DD, the widest I'll be getting is 245/40/17 (no 18's or R Comp for me). Should I look into SWIFT Sports instead?
With an alignment and better springs... you will feel a bit better on slow speed turns, but running flat out you're going to still push like before... but you may be able to wallow in understeer a little less.
As long as it reduces the amount of understeer I was getting, I'll be satisfied.
Your roll stiffness in the front isn't even close. You have at LEAST 900 pounds on each of the front tires (unsprung mass) Your left front is going to be higher than the right front as well.
Idk how far the swift kit lowers the front, but I would advise getting the Whiteline Roll center/bump steer correct kit. By raising your roll center you increase your effective roll stiffness (allows your springs to become more effective once you're lowered)
I believe they lower 1.5f/.8r respectively.
On the autocrosses I like running retarded amounts of toe out in the front. I ran almost a .400"of toe out last event. If you want to try it out...i recommend running at LEAST 1/4" toe out (combined L&F)
I'm trying to make my tires last here
Without the diff you'll need to run less camber in the rear and maybe a RCH of toe out.
I would honestly buy the diff first and then tune yoursetup around it. Otherwise you're starting down a path that you'll have to double back on later on.
How much does the rear diff cost?
Thank you for the tips!
Bart
OAKOS Automotive
Aug 9, 2010, 01:28 PM
#161
Evolved Member
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: 41° 59' N, 87° 54' W
Posts: 6,224
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I run Swift Spec-R springs with a bigger front sway bar and have tracked 265/35R18 BFG R1 r-comps and did not feel like the car was undersprung. Still makes for a very nice ride as a DD, too.
Rear diff rebuild should cost in the neighborhood of $400.
l8r)
Rear diff rebuild should cost in the neighborhood of $400.
l8r)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AutoMotoSports
Automotosports - Illinois
13
Nov 30, 2009 09:22 PM
