Just wondering if there are any electronic or mechanical reasons that the steering column needs to splined into the rack in any specific way. My column was splined incorrectly and the steering wheel was straightened with the tie rods, so I would like to center the tie rods and just take the wheel off and put it back on right side up. Will this be ok or will something be messed up by it.

 

Bump...

 

I'm not sure on the answer to this, so you might want to ask a tech at the dealer specifically for Mitsubishi. But when I was a tech on Porsche and Audi cars, in all the racks I've done on Audi 5000's and my own cars it didn't matter. I will say on the evo when I did my front sway bar I had to mess with that rack to column area. As you see the rack has a flat side to it on the male spline portion with no splines on that flat section, and that lines up with the open slot of the steering column female portion. That's how my cars was from the factory. I personally don't think the car will no any difference how it's lined up so long as it's a secure connection, for safety reasons obviously. Just my opinion on this though. To readjust it would I think involve lowering the rack to line it back up again since I couldn't figure out how to raise and/or shorten the column to take it off the rack. I don't think that column shaft is meant to collapse unless in an accident. You see the splines in that upper section that I mean? If those collapsed you could remove that connection, align it like I mentioned and bolt it back together. Not sure if lowering the rack just a bit is worth it in your case.

 

I've had the steering column out of the car when I had the dash apart. There is a clamp at the firewall that allows the column to come off the shaft. There are also stern warnings about not releasing the tilt mechanism while removing or replacing the column (anytime it is not installed). Dire things happen, I guess, if you do this.

Getting the column back on is a two person job, one to hold the column and one to pinch the clamp. I was alone so I substituted a worm drive clamp.

So, if doing this, I would adjust the toe to zero with the same number of threads on both sides, then eyeball the front wheels to the straight ahead position and install the column. Most likely you still will find the steering wheel somewhat off and this will require additional tie rod adjusting.

 

It's splined correctly as you stated, its just that the wheels were turned one way when I took it out and I guess a different way when I put it back. So the tie rods are the only thing out of place.

I didn't have a problem putting it back in by myself but everyone said that was the hardest part, I think I just got lucky. And the process you stated would absolutely be the right way to do this job and is what I planned on doing all along, but I don't have access to a lift or air tools that often and only have a few hours a week to work on the car so I'm just trying to find a way to get around this lol.

Thanks for the responses, good info.

 

I think the only concern is the airbag cable and then the wiper/flasher controls. The airbag cable wraps around the steering column kind of like a constant tension spring. If you turn the steering wheel while it's off, you can potentially move it enough that when you put it back on, it may damage the cable.

As for not releasing the tilt, I never noticed that warning and I am pretty sure I had the tilt released while I took it out.

I've got mine one spline off and the blinker never turns off automatically when turning one direction and then it never stays on when turning the other. It's annoying, but not enough that I'll take the 10 minutes to fix it.

 

Lol the same thing happened to me at first until I did an allignmet with the steering wheel locked straight. And as far as the air bag clock spring is concerned, I'm probably going after market soon anyway, so that shouldn't be an issue.