casper980

iTrader: (6)

My mechanic melted the whiteline bushing last time the control arm had to be removed. Maybe cut out the bushing or try melting it. Better to lose a bushing then a LCA

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Thanks for the response. I've been spraying it with Liquid Wrench and no luck thus far. I just ordered a can of Kroil per the recommendation of others on here so I will keep my fingers crossed that itll do the trick.

We choose to put my car back together as I am racing on Sunday and was not prepared to be without a car and dont want to miss out on this weekend should something significant happen.

I have replacement Whiteline LCA bushings so I dont care if I have to hack up the old ones as they will be replaced regardless. The problem though isnt really the rubber bushings but rather the metal sleeve. I need to figure out a way to unseize it from the bolt. I wish there were a way to cut up the sleeve but there is limited space so my mechanic thinks we need to hack up the LCAs.

What was your process as far as cutting out the old bushing? Even if I torch it, I will still have the issue of the seized sleeve.Was there enough clearance to burn and then cut the sleeve?

Piro Fyre

iTrader: (23)

Since no one I knew had a torch/plasma cutter (and I was quoted $60 from a shop to cut it off and didn't feel like paying him), I had to cut it out with an angle grinder.


What did I do next? I replaced the entire k member/subframe from a parted out Evo in Florida. Why Florida? Because no rust! Came with a steering rack too. Made my day when it came with a newer steering rack.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

I purchased a set of LCAs so if I have to cut something its gunna be them not my subframe. Im keeping my fingers crossed that I will somehow be able to hack up the bushing and bolt as opposed to needing to cut the LCA.

If I could just figure out a way to unseize the bolt and sleeve that would be ideal. I've read some comments about burning the bushing but that still doesnt solve the fact that the sleeve and bolt are stuck and its not like I can melt those.

chu

iTrader: (72)

My passenger side was seized also. I uses a sawzall to cut the bolt head off, and air hammer to punch the bolt through. cut every half inch or so until it came out. Took a long time, but worked out for me.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Thanks for chiming in bud. I can understand cutting off the bolt head however once you did that how were you able to cut the bolt? I feel like space is very limited...Also which way did you push the bolt? It seems like I would only be able to push the bolt inward but then I feel like its gunna get wedged in my subframe. I guess that is why you had to cut in every .5" but Im just not sure how you gained access to it. Did you use a sawzall for all of the cutting?

chu

iTrader: (72)

After I noticed the bolt was turning but not backing out, I knew it was pushing the nut off the "cage." I cut a small 1x2 inch hole on the subframe. The hole was just enough, and didn't hurt the structure of the subframe any. I used a sawzall; it was tight but I got it eventually. Lathered the new bolts up with anti-seize and it was a dandy.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

So if I am understanding you correctly you cut of the head of the bolt first. Then placed the sawzall blade through your "access hole" and cut off the end, pushed in in some cut the end again, pushed it in some more so on and so forth?

I havent been under the car in a couple of days so Im trying to visualize how the process would work. I just remember when looking at it originally both myself and my mechanic were pondering if it were possible to get at the bolt without hacking off the subframe tabs or hacking up the LCAs. I ordered new LCAs so if worst comes to worst I will cut up my old ones but ideally Id like to salvage my current ones and then sell the spares I just bought to recoupe some money.

ProPilot04

iTrader: (11)

Wow. It's shocking how many people are having this issue.

FWIW, my car is garaged for all inclement weather, and I still have this problem.

I cut the sub-frame open today, and tack welded the nut, but I'm having trouble balancing between penetration on the weld. Both of my welds have cracked. I'm nervous to put too much bead on it, because that will weld the bolt to the nut to the frame.

To compound, I can't get the flipping lower ball joint out anyhow (which is how I found myself in this situation). I have BFH, I... well, whatever. It won't come out.

I think tomorrow, I'm going to bolt everything back together, and try and drive it to it's winter storage facility (probably have it towed actually) because I do NOT see this getting sorted before the snow flies.

And my GD other car set itself on fire on Wednesday. So I've got my back in a corner.

Open to suggestions. Also... open to part numbers for the green bolts?

japspeceg7

This is common on the Honda civics as well. It is usually on the card from up north or cars near beaches. Heating up the bolt almost always does the trick.