casper980

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys I thought I would just share my experience so that others can be prepared, I don't know how many have experienced this. I live in Michigan and the car has seen several winters so that is probably the largest contributing factor. Anyway

So I needed to get the bump steer correction and roll center adjustment kits installed on my car. When it was time to change the ball joints out for the new units, for the second time, my drivers side FLCA arm, front bolt, has needed to be cut out to be removed. It bolts into a nut that is secured in place by a steel cage inside the sub-frame. How do I know this, because the sub-frame has been cut open twice now to put the nut back in place. The bolt is getting stuck on the bushing, then it pushes the nut through the cage. Two times drivers side both times. Well the nut was welded to the sub-frame and anti seize was used on everything to prevent this in the future. Getting the bolt out was not fun either, the bushing which was already a whiteline bushing had to be melted in order to get enough play to be able to get at the bolt to cut it. Moral of the story, if you have to remove the FLCA's have bolts and bushings on hand.

evremonde

iTrader: (7)

never heard of anything like this.

have you been in any accidents?

casper980

iTrader: (6)

Nope, no accidents.

Solo II Evo

iTrader: (29)

Interesting. After installing the bump-steer kit, the nut was a lot harder to get out AFTER installing that kit than before. My Evo is a new england, formerly daily driven evo and it was very easy getting that bolt off even after all that salt/snow.

Either way, did you lather on the anti-seize this time?

casper980

iTrader: (6)

Maybe this is an isolated incident, but I thought I would share

Sure did, Anti-seize ftw

antilag_200

iTrader: (49)

Nope it is not an isolated incident, I had to do the same thing with my car Had to cut the subframe to access that bolt... IT SUCKED big time./....I ended up using volkswagen beetle bolts ( which have a green coating on them, to prevent them from rusting to the bushings and sleeves...

Solo II Evo

iTrader: (29)

Wow, that's a really good idea!!

Do you have the PN#?

pshooter

iTrader: (8)

I would say not isolated.
I went to drop my drivers side LCA last winter to install the whiteline kit and the front bolt would not budge.
I was able to install the ball joints in-situ, but want to do bushings and PSSRS this winter.

Jerm__

ya those are a bastard on a lot of cars. best way to get them off is to heat it up. then you need new bushing though.

casper980

iTrader: (6)

Ok, so I am not the only one. Heads up guys and gals. +1 on part number, unfortunately I did not change over to the perrin PSRS at the same time, so they will be coming out again. If this happens a third time I would like to try those bolts.

Jerm__

The older the car, the more stuck they tend to get, due to rust buildup. My car is a 2005 and i had problems with it, so don't worry about it. Once you get it out though make sure to throw on some anti-seize so that next time they'll come off easily.

fatboyz39

I have this problem on the passenger side (gearbox side).

Bolts turns but doesnt come out (comes out about 3mm, bolt keep on spinning). I have tighten it back up and it torque up ok.

What would the best way to remove it?

casper980

iTrader: (6)

How much did you spin it before you noticed it not coming out? If you lost the nut thats in the subframe you have made the job harder and will have to cut open the frame to put the nut back. When, not if this happens, stop immediately and go and buy new bushings and LCA Bolts. Better yet if they have to come out, just buy the parts before you find out they are stuck. If you have stock bushings still you should be able to get enough play that you can access the bolt and cut it out. A sawzall works the best, but still not very well. So far my mechanic has not been able to find a cut tool that is aggressive enough to do the job in a timely fashion. You don't want to use a plasma cutter, cant remember why. I am honestly surprised that no one has done a write up on this with how many jobs require removing those bolts. I am sure that AMS, Buscher and the like, have seen this 100x. If your not comfortable or don't have the tools, I suggest taking it to someone knowledgeable.

fatboyz39

It was still tight when loosening, so its either cross threaded from previous removal and installation. Once i realised it wasnt gonna come out i just tighten it back up and it torque up.

I was gonna change the ball joint.

blkmkIII

iTrader: (34)

Did you try to shock the bolt?