Brembo Brake Problem...
#1
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
Brembo Brake Problem...
Hi Guys,
currently my brake seems only biting on the rear part and the front doesnt seem biting at all or much...
The rust on the front rotors still present after even 2 days of driving.
This happen after ive changed my rotors (Front & Rear) and brake pads for front only.
Today ive changed the brake fluid dot 4.0 bosch and hope it will be fine after few days of running the new front brake pads...
Say,if after few days the problem still the same, then what area should i need to focus on (Brake pump, Brembo service kit, Etc)???
Thanks
currently my brake seems only biting on the rear part and the front doesnt seem biting at all or much...
The rust on the front rotors still present after even 2 days of driving.
This happen after ive changed my rotors (Front & Rear) and brake pads for front only.
Today ive changed the brake fluid dot 4.0 bosch and hope it will be fine after few days of running the new front brake pads...
Say,if after few days the problem still the same, then what area should i need to focus on (Brake pump, Brembo service kit, Etc)???
Thanks
Last edited by jameswwt; Oct 29, 2010 at 03:46 AM.
#2
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
check to make sure that the pads are able to move and something didn't get dropped into the calipers that will prevent their movement. Check to make sure that the pistons have not seized up. It is extremely dangerous to drive without your front brakes. They do most of your braking! Any surface rust on your brakes should be gone within the first couple of times that you apply your brakes!
#4
Evolved Member
iTrader: (28)
Also when you opened each bleeder valve to bleed them did the fluid easily get pumped out in spurts or did it just slowly drip out? I've seen cars where the bleeder valve was completely rusted over on the inner part of it so it wouldn't bleed and had the piston in the caliper seized
#5
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
Also when you opened each bleeder valve to bleed them did the fluid easily get pumped out in spurts or did it just slowly drip out? I've seen cars where the bleeder valve was completely rusted over on the inner part of it so it wouldn't bleed and had the piston in the caliper seized
yes, my mech have bleed the 4 valve and yes, everything is normal while bleeding...
No entrap air or slow dripping.
Will it be the master pump problem? Ive checked the front 2 caliper pistons and when we press on the brake the pistons will come out each at a time...This is mainly to check whether is it a jam pump.
Everything just seems to goes a bit hairwire after my complete rebuilt.
Will it caused by faulty sensors or faulty AYC?
What should i do now?
Last edited by jameswwt; Oct 29, 2010 at 11:40 PM.
#7
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
yes ive tried braking hard during 100ish but confirmed the front brake is not biting...
The curious part is,when we remove the front pads earlier and checked on the pistons it did work when we pedal the brake.
But the pistons just come out one at a time...
Will it be a brake pump problem and can i try putting in a new service kit for the front brembo's???
Please advise
Trending Topics
#11
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
To rule out the possibility of it being an air-in-fluid problem, how does the brake pedal feel when driving? Is it soft? Firm? is the pedal inconsistent in pressure?
If its firm, and the pedal provides constant 'feel' then it's time to look into those calipers. A Master Cylinder leak can easily be spotted by inspecting the cylinder itself, and the hard line connections, etc. Any internal leak in the cylinder would be accompanied by a squishy pedal, so if again your pedal is firm, I would start checking out those calipers.
Another thought too, is your brake line where it bolts to the strut kinked at all? Inspect the lines themselves throughly in the wheel wells.
If its firm, and the pedal provides constant 'feel' then it's time to look into those calipers. A Master Cylinder leak can easily be spotted by inspecting the cylinder itself, and the hard line connections, etc. Any internal leak in the cylinder would be accompanied by a squishy pedal, so if again your pedal is firm, I would start checking out those calipers.
Another thought too, is your brake line where it bolts to the strut kinked at all? Inspect the lines themselves throughly in the wheel wells.
#12
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Solo
To rule out the possibility of it being an air-in-fluid problem, how does the brake pedal feel when driving? Is it soft? Firm? is the pedal inconsistent in pressure?
If its firm, and the pedal provides constant 'feel' then it's time to look into those calipers. A Master Cylinder leak can easily be spotted by inspecting the cylinder itself, and the hard line connections, etc. Any internal leak in the cylinder would be accompanied by a squishy pedal, so if again your pedal is firm, I would start checking out those calipers.
Another thought too, is your brake line where it bolts to the strut kinked at all? Inspect the lines themselves throughly in the wheel wells.
If its firm, and the pedal provides constant 'feel' then it's time to look into those calipers. A Master Cylinder leak can easily be spotted by inspecting the cylinder itself, and the hard line connections, etc. Any internal leak in the cylinder would be accompanied by a squishy pedal, so if again your pedal is firm, I would start checking out those calipers.
Another thought too, is your brake line where it bolts to the strut kinked at all? Inspect the lines themselves throughly in the wheel wells.
#14
Newbie
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kansas
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When the pressure in the system rises because you put you foot on the brake, a bad master cylinder will allow leakage past the seal and limit the pressure so the pistons won't apply much force. This will not show up when testing piston movement with the caliper off the rotor as there is no pressure to cause the leak back. In short, get a new master cylinder.
#15
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
When the pressure in the system rises because you put you foot on the brake, a bad master cylinder will allow leakage past the seal and limit the pressure so the pistons won't apply much force. This will not show up when testing piston movement with the caliper off the rotor as there is no pressure to cause the leak back. In short, get a new master cylinder.