w2pac12345

iTrader: (8)

THis is a letter I sent to the place I bought it from. If they dont refund I will go to the manafacture

Dear _______

Installed your Perrin ADj. sway bar end links for the evo 8. Went under the car to find out that they are completely loose. I tried tightening it, but no success. Looked closer and the nuts they gave me actually stripped the thread off the bolt and stripped the nut as well making it impossible to loosen and tighten. I then had to go out and buy a dremel and cut off each bolt. AS you know the bolt is attached to the end link. So basically I just threw them away and I put the stock ones back on which have way better quality nuts and bolts. The bolts supplied were a grade 3 hardly acceptable for cars which should have nothing less than grade 8 hardware which was on their from factory. I am not asking for a new set as I don't want the same problem as I know it will happen again as the hardware used on the end links are substandard. I would like some sort of compensation for the hours fixing something that should have never broke and the fact that I had to go out and buy a dremel to fix the crappie unit and hopefully you can get a refund from the manufacture. I have enclosed pics of the bad pieces and the nuts I had to cut off

AS you can see in the pics. The nut is stripped completely and the bolts is too.

alex_alex

iTrader: (7)

Perrin sucks. so far, i hear their endlinks suck, their test pipe with CEL sucks (doesn't work), and their FMIC sucks (rumor)

evolutionist

You have one opinion, an you are welcomed to it. I have the endlinks along with the sway bar. Great looking quality. They didn't strip. Striping a nut is usually user error. That Cusco bar tied in with the end links in the picture looks like it has some pretty good damage on it. Strange.
I have the test pipe with several thousand miles on it, no cel. I believe when they first came out they had some problems with the resistor, but that got fixed a while ago.

QuickEvo

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I've have my Perrin Test pipe for about 5K miles and no CEL. Did you torque to nuts to proper specs or did you just strong-arm it?

w2pac12345

iTrader: (8)

The damage on the sway bar. You mean the chipped paint. Thats from the grinder(too big to do any good), then the dremel. I guess I have a shakey hand, but no actual "damage" is done to it. There is no room for error when puttin on a bolt. AS the letter states they provided me with very low quality hardware including the bolt on the end link. When putting parts on a car that endure a lot of stress nothing but grade 8 hardware should be used. If you dont know the higher the grade the better the quality. MY friend is a hardware distrubutor so I took the nut that stripped over to him and he said those bolts are I think he said grade 3 which are meant for stuff like wood working. Go to any hardware store and ask them if it is a smart thing to do to put grade 3 hardware on ANY car.

w2pac12345

iTrader: (8)

I always torque everything to the proper specs. Even have a torque wrench instead of going by feel as a lot of people do

EvilBlueEvo8

iTrader: (26)

this thread is being brought back from the dead for one reason. to document the fact that i've had some trouble with the endlinks as well (and I've had them on for at least a year). one: they were missing a nut and washer from the get go. nothing a quick trip to home depot didn't solve. two: the adjusting sleeve on the passenger side loosened a bit over the summer/fall. and three (which was the big problem): the nut that holds the endlink to the control arm on the passenger side backed off almost a half inch. yes i torqued it properly. yes i used a lock washer. and no it is not the connection with the home depot hardware. that is this same particular endlink to the swaybar and is holding (cross my fingers) particularly well. i just figured i'd add this info here. oh and i'm not bashing perrin. i have other perrin stuff too (catch can, short shifter) and haven't really had any problems with those.