rotor pros rotors warped at 10k miles
Feb 10, 2011, 05:53 PM
#16
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Here are two good examples of total temperature range and uses:
EBC RedStuff: 200-1400F, .50 drag coefficient
EBC YellowStuff: 300-1750F, intermediate to high torque
Note, both seem to have very similar temp ranges. But each works differently within their range. Reds work more effectively in the lower end of their temp range. And Yellows are happiest at the mid to high end of their range.
Reds are for AX. Yellows are for HPDE.
--------------------
Going the other direction on pads. Pads that are overwhelmed by the car/event/driver will literally fall apart (melt, catch fire). Pad transfer there too.
EBC RedStuff: 200-1400F, .50 drag coefficient
EBC YellowStuff: 300-1750F, intermediate to high torque
Note, both seem to have very similar temp ranges. But each works differently within their range. Reds work more effectively in the lower end of their temp range. And Yellows are happiest at the mid to high end of their range.
Reds are for AX. Yellows are for HPDE.
--------------------
Going the other direction on pads. Pads that are overwhelmed by the car/event/driver will literally fall apart (melt, catch fire). Pad transfer there too.
Have you ran the Yellows on track? Two other evo's brought yellow's to the track and both smoked them within the first few sessions. We all have blue's now, and they are working much better - I didn't even know they offered something with less heat than the yellows. I used the yellow's autoxing all last year and they worked great, still tons of pad left and didn't eat rotors.
I have rotorpros black rotors up front too, and recently did 2 track days at Laguna Seca, nothing bad to report about the rotors or pads - I did get some spongy pedal at the end of the day but that is more due to poor ducting and fluid not holding up.
Feb 10, 2011, 09:52 PM
#17
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Maybe i was too quick to judge. At the time i was on ST43 all around. It was bed in properly too. My experience with them was from track use. Lasted 2 days. Had to toss em after. Had spidercracks all the way to edge + highspeed brake shudder. I did the fingernail test. It failed.
I had a friend who was also a evo veteran that tracks his car, when he was braking....the steering wheel would just shudder left and right a good 1-2cm of movement. It got tiring for him to hold it steady, so he called it quits after 4th session. Same rotorpros. In fact, it was not slotted, but blanks.
Again, this is from my experience with real race pads on a real track at high speeds and not talking out of my butt. Your miles may vary i guess. I suppose for a DD rotors, it does what it suppose to do. I'll give it that much.
Btw, arent rotorspros from C-Tek, thats what it said on the box. They are not Centric premiums.
I had a friend who was also a evo veteran that tracks his car, when he was braking....the steering wheel would just shudder left and right a good 1-2cm of movement. It got tiring for him to hold it steady, so he called it quits after 4th session. Same rotorpros. In fact, it was not slotted, but blanks.
Again, this is from my experience with real race pads on a real track at high speeds and not talking out of my butt. Your miles may vary i guess. I suppose for a DD rotors, it does what it suppose to do. I'll give it that much.
Btw, arent rotorspros from C-Tek, thats what it said on the box. They are not Centric premiums.
Centric explains the difference pretty well between the standards and premiums on there website.
http://www.centricparts.com/index.ph...d=51&Itemid=85
Feb 11, 2011, 04:14 AM
#18
Have you ran the Yellows on track? Two other evo's brought yellow's to the track and both smoked them within the first few sessions. We all have blue's now, and they are working much better - I didn't even know they offered something with less heat than the yellows. I used the yellow's autoxing all last year and they worked great, still tons of pad left and didn't eat rotors.
I have rotorpros black rotors up front too, and recently did 2 track days at Laguna Seca, nothing bad to report about the rotors or pads - I did get some spongy pedal at the end of the day but that is more due to poor ducting and fluid not holding up.
I have rotorpros black rotors up front too, and recently did 2 track days at Laguna Seca, nothing bad to report about the rotors or pads - I did get some spongy pedal at the end of the day but that is more due to poor ducting and fluid not holding up.
Blues are what an Evo needs. Heavier car that is known to be rough on brakes. I have a set Ill be testing at some point in my Mustang (heavier test car).
Feb 11, 2011, 10:38 AM
#20
Shouldn't you be getting more than 10 track days from uber-expensive rotors like those two-piece PF's you mentioned? That sounds like some expensive brake wear.
*edit* I should've read your other post - I also used ST43's all around on my rotor pros, I also had lame-but-somewhat-functional 2.5" brake ducts (gheeetttoooo) but still, I'm going to keep running these rotors this year. I did Monticello (145mph braking, 130mph braking, etc. per lap.. BIG course, hard on brakes!) on these rotors, too. I wonder why we had such difference experiences? FWIW, I'm basically stock engine.. if you are going a lot faster then me than that could be a reason.
I also have lots of seat-time, and real track speed driving experience. While I'm far from "pro" I certainly do well enough on course to do some damage
Last edited by Solo II Evo; Feb 11, 2011 at 10:44 AM.
Feb 11, 2011, 12:03 PM
#22
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I have 8 track days on my Rotor pros fronts - still going strong.
Shouldn't you be getting more than 10 track days from uber-expensive rotors like those two-piece PF's you mentioned? That sounds like some expensive brake wear.
*edit* I should've read your other post - I also used ST43's all around on my rotor pros, I also had lame-but-somewhat-functional 2.5" brake ducts (gheeetttoooo) but still, I'm going to keep running these rotors this year. I did Monticello (145mph braking, 130mph braking, etc. per lap.. BIG course, hard on brakes!) on these rotors, too. I wonder why we had such difference experiences? FWIW, I'm basically stock engine.. if you are going a lot faster then me than that could be a reason.
I also have lots of seat-time, and real track speed driving experience. While I'm far from "pro" I certainly do well enough on course to do some damage
Shouldn't you be getting more than 10 track days from uber-expensive rotors like those two-piece PF's you mentioned? That sounds like some expensive brake wear.
*edit* I should've read your other post - I also used ST43's all around on my rotor pros, I also had lame-but-somewhat-functional 2.5" brake ducts (gheeetttoooo) but still, I'm going to keep running these rotors this year. I did Monticello (145mph braking, 130mph braking, etc. per lap.. BIG course, hard on brakes!) on these rotors, too. I wonder why we had such difference experiences? FWIW, I'm basically stock engine.. if you are going a lot faster then me than that could be a reason.
I also have lots of seat-time, and real track speed driving experience. While I'm far from "pro" I certainly do well enough on course to do some damage
Like I said, im hard on brakes so there were spider/hairline cracks forming on the PF 2pc rotors. They took a good beating. Got them used for $320 shipped btw.
Unfortunately the cracks worked its way to the inside edge and touched the hats in 3 places. I didn't feel it was safe braking down from 120mph to 50 mph at Laguna Seca T2 (Adretti Hairpin), so i replaced the rotor rings.
Last edited by Pure EvoIX; Feb 11, 2011 at 12:08 PM.
Feb 11, 2011, 01:18 PM
#23
I guess my set of rotorpros was a dud. Btw, like to note that the black coating was fried at the track and was peeling/flaking off. Useless. Might as well have gotten raw no coating. I eat race pads in 3 full track days. If im lucky 4 days. This is all with properly routed AMS brake ducting, new fluid (Motul 600), girodisc ti shims, ss lines. I have also tried DTC-70 and PF01 pads too. Same results in pad wear. Race weight is about 3325-3350lbs . Im a real late braker, and trail brake certain turns. I don't drag on brakes. I spend the least amount of time on brakes (harder on brakes) enough to get it down to a speed i need to get through a corner as fast as i can. I guess my experience is an outlier. YMMV. Again, just my experience and it may not even come close to other people's experience on track or on street. Maybe im just doing it wrong for 20+ track days over the 3.5 years of doing this. Who knows. If the rotorpros work awesome for you, great! Cheap, affordable, long lasting rotors ftw. If i recall, aren't rotorpros pillar vane (stock is the same btw)? How's that for brake cooling and venting heat?
Like I said, im hard on brakes so there were spider/hairline cracks forming on the PF 2pc rotors. They took a good beating. Got them used for $320 shipped btw. Unfortunately the cracks worked its way to the inside edge and touched the hats in 3 places. I didn't feel it was safe braking down from 120mph to 50 mph at Laguna Seca T2 (Adretti Hairpin), so i replaced the rotor rings.
Like I said, im hard on brakes so there were spider/hairline cracks forming on the PF 2pc rotors. They took a good beating. Got them used for $320 shipped btw.
Unfortunately the cracks worked its way to the inside edge and touched the hats in 3 places. I didn't feel it was safe braking down from 120mph to 50 mph at Laguna Seca T2 (Adretti Hairpin), so i replaced the rotor rings.I hear you on pad wear. I ate through ST43's in 4 days (three Monitcello, one LIme Rock) my rotor pros are showing a lot of spider cracks, but they're not to the edges yet. Hmm - maybe I should consider tossing them.. but I think Smike Evo said they look OK and to keep going, just to watch them. I'll go dig up those pics and post back (car is on stands for the winter now). Also worth noting, I had mine zinc washed silver, and they weren't the black coating. I know rotorpros said that you shouldn't have the color coated hubs for track use. I doubt that'll make them warp, though. The zinc has held up surprisly well on the hubs. I correct myself too - i had 6 days on the rotorpros - I forgot I replaced them after my two-day event last year not before.
It also looks like you have 50hp more than I do. We have about the same torque, but you're definitely going faster than me.
$320 shipped on 2 piece rotors - wow. Lucky!!! And regarding brake ducts, I need to step up to 3". I'll post back with how my rotors look. But I will say they drive fine.
Feb 11, 2011, 06:04 PM
#25
FWIW
With rotors you generally get what you pay for. The rotorpros/c-tek rotors are great for direct replacement and are not "bad" for track use. Just don't expect them to last very long. Cooling is the main culprit. A quality curved vane rotor will always last longer on the track. Temps are lower, which also greatly extends the life of the pads. Temp is the enemy... By the way, don't pay much attention to published temp ranges or fiction numbers. There's no way a EBC pad will go to 1750F and work well or last very long. Nothing is going to last very long at those temps. By 1300F most pads are wearing so fast they are grinding rotors to a pulp, 1500F they are almost useless. I don't care what the box says.
Martin
With rotors you generally get what you pay for. The rotorpros/c-tek rotors are great for direct replacement and are not "bad" for track use. Just don't expect them to last very long. Cooling is the main culprit. A quality curved vane rotor will always last longer on the track. Temps are lower, which also greatly extends the life of the pads. Temp is the enemy... By the way, don't pay much attention to published temp ranges or fiction numbers. There's no way a EBC pad will go to 1750F and work well or last very long. Nothing is going to last very long at those temps. By 1300F most pads are wearing so fast they are grinding rotors to a pulp, 1500F they are almost useless. I don't care what the box says.
Martin
!!!!!
Feb 11, 2011, 07:40 PM
#29
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About 12 track days couple k street, used PFC pads and a set or 2 of raybestos pads. Yes AMS cooling ducts used. Replaced the disks had the new ones cryo treated and the same thing. Any body want to buy some really light *** hats cheap? Buy the cheaper disks use and dispose not worth the expense to get the best unless you're running a race team with a big budget. To the OP your disks aren't "warped", re-bed, sand whatever just use em an toss em.
Please notice there is no lip on these rotors.
Please notice there is no lip on these rotors.
Last edited by cfdfireman1; Feb 11, 2011 at 07:43 PM.
Feb 11, 2011, 09:17 PM
#30
About 12 track days couple k street, used PFC pads and a set or 2 of raybestos pads. Yes AMS cooling ducts used. Replaced the disks had the new ones cryo treated and the same thing. Any body want to buy some really light *** hats cheap? Buy the cheaper disks use and dispose not worth the expense to get the best unless you're running a race team with a big budget. To the OP your disks aren't "warped", re-bed, sand whatever just use em an toss em.
Please notice there is no lip on these rotors.
Please notice there is no lip on these rotors.
I do respect the people in this thread who haven't had success with cheap rotors, however I wouldn't say that is the case always, more like an exception.