i bought a set of rotor pro slotted rotors about 10k miles ago and now they are warped. when breaking at speeds of 60 mph or higher the car shacked very bad.

does anyone else have this problem??


rotors have no track day and only 1 autocross day. pads i'm useing are hawk hps

 

Are you sure they're warped and its not just a lot of pad transfer? They will/can have similar characteristics.

 

i bought mine 2 years ago from MAP and no issues yet

 

same thing happened to me. They are rubbish. Metallurgy sucks thats why its so cheap. Performance Friction 2pc rotors ftmfw. Lasted around 10 track days.

 

Before you can say the rotors are "rubbish". What pads are you using?

Poor pad choice (aka out of heat range / pad material transfer) is likely the cause.

 

Can you link me to info on what you speak of?

School me SmikeEvo! Bout to order some rotors and pads.

 

Nice article on it from StopTech:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

Too aggressive of a pad (racing pad heat range for ex: 300-2000F) will be really harsh on the rotor and not allow the pad to come to temp so it can do its job. Pad material deposits on the rotor surface will give that judder feeling. Most race pads might list 300F-2000F. But their highest effective stopping power could be from 600F-1700F within their max range.

Edit: What will the uses for the pads/rotors be? HDPE, AX, only DD?

 

i had my rotorpros slotted for about 2 years, daily driving and no problems yet. i use hawks pads

 

just saying

 

I used to think my rotors were warped. I was too lazy to get them machined or replaced and it went away after a little. Pretty sure mine was pad transfer.

 

Here are two good examples of total temperature range and uses:

EBC RedStuff: 200-1400F, .50 drag coefficient
EBC YellowStuff: 300-1750F, intermediate to high torque

Note, both seem to have very similar temp ranges. But each works differently within their range. Reds work more effectively in the lower end of their temp range. And Yellows are happiest at the mid to high end of their range.

Reds are for AX. Yellows are for HPDE.


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Going the other direction on pads. Pads that are overwhelmed by the car/event/driver will literally fall apart (melt, catch fire). Pad transfer there too.

 

Those look expensive!

 

Pad transfer issue for sure. I have had the same damn rotorpros slotted rotors on my EVO for over 80k miles. 3rd set of pads. Did put a small fresh cut on them once going to the second set of pads.

Never had any shake, shimmy, uneven pad where or cracking.

It's not the rotors

 

I'm on my second set of rotorpros in the front, still have the first set in the back. Never had an issue with them. Pads used with the rotors have been: Hawk HPS, HP+, Performance Friction PF97, PFZ. Tires: Advan A046, GoodYear Eagle GS-D3, Continental (don't remember the name), BFG R1.

You may want to rebed them. My first set lasted about 20K miles - could have lasted longer, but I had made the mistake of getting slotted and dimpled and finally got tired of hearing the buzzing noise from the dimples, so I swapped them for a set of slotted front rotors.

l8r)

 

Maybe i was too quick to judge. At the time i was on ST43 all around. It was bed in properly too. My experience with them was from track use. Lasted 2 days. Had to toss em after. Had spidercracks all the way to edge + highspeed brake shudder. I did the fingernail test. It failed.

I had a friend who was also a evo veteran that tracks his car, when he was braking....the steering wheel would just shudder left and right a good 1-2cm of movement. It got tiring for him to hold it steady, so he called it quits after 4th session. Same rotorpros. In fact, it was not slotted, but blanks.

Again, this is from my experience with real race pads on a real track at high speeds and not talking out of my butt. Your miles may vary i guess. I suppose for a DD rotors, it does what it suppose to do. I'll give it that much.

Btw, arent rotorspros from C-Tek, thats what it said on the box. They are not Centric premiums.