rgonyer

iTrader: (16)

2006 Evo MR, stock dampers, GTWorx springs. I also have about every product Whiteline makes for the car (front bar, ball joints, steering rack bushings, bump steer correction kit, etc).

What specs are recommended for a 95% daily driver, 5% track day car? I don't want to replace tires every 6k miles, nor do I want to have to take them off the rims and have them flipped because the inside wear is horrible.

I bought the lifetime alignment through Firestone.... I think I'll be making use of that! Suggestions welcome.

Current settings are :

Left Front:
Camber -1.8
Caster 2.7
Toe .01
SAI 15.3
Included Angle 13.5

Right Front:
Camber -1.3
Caster 3.6
Toe 0.00
SAI 15.2
Included Angle 13.9

Front:
Cross Camber -.4
Cross Caster -1.0
Cross SAI 0.0
Total Toe .01

Left Rear:
Camber -1.2
Toe .01

Right Rear
Camber -1.1
Toe .01

Rear:
Cross Camber -.1
Total Toe .02
Thrust Angle 0.00

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

Only thing I would change is to even up the front camber bring the right side up to match the left. You may have to flip the camber bolt so the arrow points out.

GG06MR

iTrader: (9)

^^^^^ What he said, and I even recommend running slightly more camber on the passenger side when having the alignment done, because as soon as you sit in the car(assuming left had drive) the camber will increase even more negative on the driver side.

rgonyer

iTrader: (16)

More negative camber on the passenger, or positive?

GG06MR

iTrader: (9)

More negative.

Bassicfun

iTrader: (10)

no sense doing an alignment w/o you/driver in the car..... that is how any good race alignment shop will do it as well (or at minimum use ballast same as expected driver, in driver seat).

Keep toe at zero front and rear to help with the daily tire wear, no problem to add a quick 1/2 turn of toe out at an event/track day to get some improved turn in, then return it for the drive home.

brenner

iTrader: (14)

-2/-2 front camber 0 toe

-1 to -1.5/-1 to -1.5 rear camber 0 toe

Sly Moose

Just go with stock settings, its not much camber. you need to watch out for toe, thats the tire killer

rgonyer

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the advice. -2 toe in the front isn't going to cause extra wear?

Another question - apparently the shop broke my rear bolt that adjusts rear toe on the drivers side. It's the bolt that goes through my Whiteline rear camber correction (the part that attaches up to the frame). Anyone know the part # for that bolt?? I can't seem to locate it.

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

1.8 2.0 won't make a difference.

Not sure there is such a thing. Stock camber and toe bolts are known for stripping, use plenty of anti-seize when you install the new bolts.

rgonyer

iTrader: (16)

Here's the diagram...

Rear suspension diagram link

Maybe #6 or #22??

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

I meant there is no such thing as "Whiteline rear camber correction". #22 is toe correction they strip all the time , don't attempt an alignment without a few on hand for toe and camber. Just tell the Mitsu dealer you want eccentric bolts for rear toe and camber they order them all the time.

0 for toe 2.0 for camber in the front.

rgonyer

iTrader: (16)

Sorry, I meant toe correction. I think they call it the rear bump steer correction kit.

Thanks for the info I really appreciate the help.

rgonyer

iTrader: (16)

Oh, and isn't that diagram missing something?? Shouldn't there be eccentric washers shown on either side of bolt 22?

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

you are correct sir.