CT9A Chassis Weakpoints
Apr 28, 2011, 01:52 PM
#76
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In for a response from UR
I can't really imagine the UR would not include both, I don't see a listing for Left and right
Interesting observation on the potential to create rubbing issues
I can't really imagine the UR would not include both, I don't see a listing for Left and right
Interesting observation on the potential to create rubbing issues
Apr 28, 2011, 02:12 PM
#77
good catch! i didnt notice that. i can see it being effective but i wonder if it will be more effective than the triangulation of the UR piece? though the UR does seem to come into the wheel arch a good amount upon closer inspection...
opinions?
*** also, the nagisa requires an extra hole to be drilled into the fender
"After carefully removing the fenders, the braces bolt to the door hinges holes and the forward part of the brace bolts to the unibody about even with the shock tower using one existing hole and requiring that another hole must be drilled in the unibody at this point as well."
from http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...ke-system.aspx
opinions?
*** also, the nagisa requires an extra hole to be drilled into the fender
"After carefully removing the fenders, the braces bolt to the door hinges holes and the forward part of the brace bolts to the unibody about even with the shock tower using one existing hole and requiring that another hole must be drilled in the unibody at this point as well."
from http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...ke-system.aspx
Apr 28, 2011, 03:40 PM
#81
Turns out whichever you get 2 holes will need to be drilled. Also a very big warning to drill the holes while the car is on the ground/has been on the ground for some time in order to make sure the chassis will be set properly otherwise there could be some issues, chassis WILL flex enough while on a lift/jacks to not fit properly
Apr 28, 2011, 03:40 PM
#82
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i'm signing up for this one too. i may be placing an order for some of these fender braces asap. I have the cusco lower 4pt brace and i def didn't notice anything. for me it was more about clearing the 3" down pipe with a little less trouble
Apr 28, 2011, 03:50 PM
#83
I was just reading in another popular thread about spot welding the chassis of the EVO. Personally I got a kick out of it.
Here is a quote from Mitsubishi concerning the EVO7-8 comparing it to the EVO6 which was already substantially stiffer than the standard Lancer:
"The Evolution strengthened it further by adding some 200 spot welds to suspension attachment, sills, pillars, floorpan etc. - the result is 50% higher torsional stiffness than the outgoing Evo VI !"
My suggestion if you are at the point that you want to substantially stiffen the chassis and the car is being pushed hard enough that it's going to actually help you....weld in a proper cage.*
Here is a quote from Mitsubishi concerning the EVO7-8 comparing it to the EVO6 which was already substantially stiffer than the standard Lancer:
"The Evolution strengthened it further by adding some 200 spot welds to suspension attachment, sills, pillars, floorpan etc. - the result is 50% higher torsional stiffness than the outgoing Evo VI !"
My suggestion if you are at the point that you want to substantially stiffen the chassis and the car is being pushed hard enough that it's going to actually help you....weld in a proper cage.*
Apr 28, 2011, 03:56 PM
#84
Sorry, a few other very interesting points. Have you guys ever jacked up the EVO by any one jack point behind the front wheel or in front of the rear wheel? If you have you will notice that the same wheel on that side of the car will also leave the ground about the same time, this shows a VERY rigid chassis. I can tell you this is not possible on a new Mustang and by the time the front or rear corresponding tire leaves the ground you are wondering if the chassis is going to twist in half!
My brother just built that '41 *****'s, there are pictures and videos posted here. That car is built on a EVO chassis. The wrecked EVO he bought was cut off up around the strut towers, down to the rockers back to the rear strut towers and then cut off from there. Dan, my brother, commented that even after the entire top of the car was cut off he could not believe how stiff the chassis that was left was. He said cutting the entire top of the car off seemed to have very little effect on the stiffness. That's pretty impressive.
My brother just built that '41 *****'s, there are pictures and videos posted here. That car is built on a EVO chassis. The wrecked EVO he bought was cut off up around the strut towers, down to the rockers back to the rear strut towers and then cut off from there. Dan, my brother, commented that even after the entire top of the car was cut off he could not believe how stiff the chassis that was left was. He said cutting the entire top of the car off seemed to have very little effect on the stiffness. That's pretty impressive.
Apr 28, 2011, 04:01 PM
#85
I was just reading in another popular thread about spot welding the chassis of the EVO. Personally I got a kick out of it.
Here is a quote from Mitsubishi concerning the EVO7-8 comparing it to the EVO6 which was already substantially stiffer than the standard Lancer:
"The Evolution strengthened it further by adding some 200 spot welds to suspension attachment, sills, pillars, floorpan etc. - the result is 50% higher torsional stiffness than the outgoing Evo VI !"
My suggestion if you are at the point that you want to substantially stiffen the chassis and the car is being pushed hard enough that it's going to actually help you....weld in a proper cage.*
Here is a quote from Mitsubishi concerning the EVO7-8 comparing it to the EVO6 which was already substantially stiffer than the standard Lancer:
"The Evolution strengthened it further by adding some 200 spot welds to suspension attachment, sills, pillars, floorpan etc. - the result is 50% higher torsional stiffness than the outgoing Evo VI !"
My suggestion if you are at the point that you want to substantially stiffen the chassis and the car is being pushed hard enough that it's going to actually help you....weld in a proper cage.*
Apr 28, 2011, 04:35 PM
#88
A proper cage would include running a triangulated point into the back of the strut tower and I think that would be much more effective than the fender brace.
My personal opinion from doing a few years of racing, road racing and drag racing. There are a lot of things said to do a lot of things. At the end of the day most of those things show no improvement and you end up with less money in your pocket and a heavier car. IF Robi SWEARS by it then I'd say go for it. I'm guessing though that the fender brace or welding all over your cars chassis will be not noticeable to 99% of drivers. As for the spot welding I look at each one of those spots as a potential place for rust. For the brace I look at it as another extra few pounds to carry. I'm a weird guy....
My personal opinion from doing a few years of racing, road racing and drag racing. There are a lot of things said to do a lot of things. At the end of the day most of those things show no improvement and you end up with less money in your pocket and a heavier car. IF Robi SWEARS by it then I'd say go for it. I'm guessing though that the fender brace or welding all over your cars chassis will be not noticeable to 99% of drivers. As for the spot welding I look at each one of those spots as a potential place for rust. For the brace I look at it as another extra few pounds to carry. I'm a weird guy....
Apr 28, 2011, 04:44 PM
#89
A proper cage would include running a triangulated point into the back of the strut tower and I think that would be much more effective than the fender brace.
My personal opinion from doing a few years of racing, road racing and drag racing. There are a lot of things said to do a lot of things. At the end of the day most of those things show no improvement and you end up with less money in your pocket and a heavier car. IF Robi SWEARS by it then I'd say go for it. I'm guessing though that the fender brace or welding all over your cars chassis will be not noticeable to 99% of drivers. As for the spot welding I look at each one of those spots as a potential place for rust. For the brace I look at it as another extra few pounds to carry. I'm a weird guy....
My personal opinion from doing a few years of racing, road racing and drag racing. There are a lot of things said to do a lot of things. At the end of the day most of those things show no improvement and you end up with less money in your pocket and a heavier car. IF Robi SWEARS by it then I'd say go for it. I'm guessing though that the fender brace or welding all over your cars chassis will be not noticeable to 99% of drivers. As for the spot welding I look at each one of those spots as a potential place for rust. For the brace I look at it as another extra few pounds to carry. I'm a weird guy....
Lots of us are going to reluctantly find that rollcage at the end of our modding/racing paths anyways 
Apr 28, 2011, 04:52 PM
#90
and a cage requires a helmet any time you drive the car... if i had unlimited money i'd take apart the car and hit every spot in the chassis i could too..
otherwise this thread was really more to identify weakpoints if any, and then the modifications to resolve them. seems fender is the weakest, followed by perhaps the rear/trunk area. haven't been able to get much feedback on subframe bracing etc though. even though the chassis is strong it will bend, even on a lift
otherwise this thread was really more to identify weakpoints if any, and then the modifications to resolve them. seems fender is the weakest, followed by perhaps the rear/trunk area. haven't been able to get much feedback on subframe bracing etc though. even though the chassis is strong it will bend, even on a lift