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Aluminum vs steel lug nuts

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Old Jul 20, 2011, 09:37 AM
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Aluminum vs steel lug nuts

I'm trying to decide if its worth it to go to aluminum lug nuts but it seems the smaller open ended nuts I already have weigh almost the same.

All the aluminum ones seem to be around .85 oz.-
http://949racing.com/forged-alloy-lugs-black-12x15.aspx

I found that the ones I have are about .86 oz each.
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Good info here:
http://www.flcarforum.com/suspension...rformance.html
Lately we’ve been getting a lot of request for lightweight lug nuts for both performance and aesthetic reasons. After some thorough and careful research, Mike has come up with the best product available for your hard earned money.

I know there are a lot of these lug nuts already being offered by name brands such as Muteki, Rays, Mugen, Work and more. Of course we could’ve had just found a distributor and offered these same products to you, but we decided to go one step further and do some research on the materials that these lightweight lug nuts are being made from. We did this to see which product offered by these companies, offered the best weight to strength ratio. Of course price is always important as well.

Here’s what we found and it might surprise you:

- Standard steel lug nuts: This is the base line for all of our comparisons. A standard closed end steel lug nut weighs about 2 ounces or 56.7 grams. Some manufacturers who offer cool painted lug nuts made of steel try to pass this off as lightweight. Just be aware you’re getting nothing but a paint job. 2 ounces is not light. Aluminum lug nuts weigh about 0.8 ounces or 22.6 grams for a full size race lug nut.

- Aluminum lug nuts: Most of the lesser expensive lug nuts and even some of the name brands use the cheaper 6061 aluminum. This aluminum has the lowest yield strength of all the aluminums used to make lug nuts. As a matter of fact, 6061 has the lowest yield strength of any material used to make lug nuts. This is what you mostly find on eBay from private label vendors. I wouldn’t put these on my own vehicle.

* Buddy club uses a material they call “Forged Alumite” which by the way is not a type of aluminum. This is just advertising. We aren’t sure what specific alloy they are made from. It could be either the better 7075 or the common softer 6061. At the price of the Buddy clubs it is not worth the risk.
* Rays calls their product “DURA-NUT” which is made from Dura-aluminum, which is a trade name for 2024 series aluminum (look @ the chart below for the specs). It is one of the two aircraft grade aluminums, the other being 7075-T6.
Notes: Duralumin (also called duraluminum, duraluminium or dural) is the trade name of one of the earliest types of age-hardenable aluminium alloys. The main alloying constituents are copper, manganese, and magnesium. A commonly used modern equivalent of this alloy type is AA2024, which contains 4.4% copper, 1.5% magnesium, 0.6% manganese and 93.5% aluminium by weight. Typical yield strength is 450 MPa, with variations depending on the composition and temper. This information was extract from Wikipedia.
* Some companies offer forged aluminum lug nuts made from 7075-T6 aluminum. We feel this is the best material presently being used. It offers the best combination of weight vs. strength vs. price. Once again take a look at the property tables provided below to compare the yield strength to that of steel, titanium and other aluminum alloys. This is the material that our lug nuts will be made from. It has a high yield strength combined with a high hardness rating. It’s used extensively in aircraft construction along side titanium where weight and strength are the two primary concerns.

- Titanium lug nuts: Finally a few companies are making titanium lug nuts. These are very expensive, especially for true grade 5 (6AI-4V) Titanium products. While the yield strength for titanium is much higher than even 7075-T6 aluminum, titanium weighs more for the same given size. Therefore, if two lug nuts have the same dimensions (which they usually do) the titanium lug nut will weigh more than the aluminum counter part. So if weight is the main consideration, aluminum still has the advantage. It has more than enough yield strength (comparable to that of a steel lug nut), and weighs the least of all of the other materials. The one area that titanium has the advantage for this application is in race environments where wheels have to be taken off and on many times. It has better fatigue resistance than aluminum in this environment of reparative tightening and loosening. The thread area is also more resistant to wear form the constant threading and unthreading that the lug nut is subjected to. For most street applications, this is an unwarranted expense.
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Just verified the stock OEM lug nut is 2.2 oz.

-OEM Evo nut = 2.2oz each x 20 = 44oz = 2.75 lb total
-Open steel nut = .86oz each x 20 =17.2oz = 1.075 lb total
-Alum nut = .85oz each x 20 = 17oz = 1.0625 lb total

I agree Alum. looks better but the weight is about the same as the small open steel nuts. Not that you would notice a difference in performance with that little weight but I was only pointing out a cheap alternative to expensive alum lug nuts.

Again we're only talking about saving .4 lbs per wheel compared to the OEM nuts so the weight savings are very minimal. Lighter wheels and rotors would give you much better results performance wise.

If you go with alum, make sure to get the better 7075-T6 material.

I think for now I'll just keep the cheap chrome steel nuts.
Old Jul 20, 2011, 10:11 AM
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Interesting read, under high heat/stress conditions like track days there are definitely better areas for weight reduction than the lug nuts (rotors, wheels). I'll stick to my open steel lugs and not worry about aluminum ones failing.
Old Jul 20, 2011, 10:15 AM
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I run the CBRD titanium lug nuts. There is a huge weight difference VS stock
Old Jul 20, 2011, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Boostd4
Interesting read, under high heat/stress conditions like track days there are definitely better areas for weight reduction than the lug nuts (rotors, wheels). I'll stick to my open steel lugs and not worry about aluminum ones failing.
Totally agree.

Originally Posted by evodan2004
I run the CBRD titanium lug nuts. There is a huge weight difference VS stock
I'd be curious how much they really weigh. Any chance you can weigh one lug on an accurate postal scale?

Edit:
These titanium lugs are 24 grams each.
http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/me...tegory_Code=L1
24 grams = 0.85 oz
Looks to be almost the same as aluminum.

Last edited by rodent; Jul 20, 2011 at 10:38 AM.
Old Jul 20, 2011, 09:01 PM
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.085 vs. 086? I would say save your cash and smash around on the ones you have already. Unless you are buying them to change up the way it looks...
Old Jul 20, 2011, 09:51 PM
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Just get mcgards and call it a day.... save the $9000 you wanna spend on lug nuts and use it for something that actually makes the car go faster or hit turns better.

And I think the TS numbers are off for your t6 7075 alum.... I've never seen it "advertised" that high; It's always around 75k, +/- 3k

Last edited by Stormin Norman; Jul 20, 2011 at 09:54 PM.
Old Jul 20, 2011, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Arctic Silver
.085 vs. 086? I would say save your cash and smash around on the ones you have already. Unless you are buying them to change up the way it looks...
Don't really care about looks just posting the weights I found.

Originally Posted by Stormin Norman
Just get mcgards and call it a day.... save the $9000 you wanna spend on lug nuts and use it for something that actually makes the car go faster or hit turns better.

And I think the TS numbers are off for your t6 7075 alum.... I've never seen it "advertised" that high; It's always around 75k, +/- 3k
I was only sharing the info I found and as mentioned earlier, I'm keeping my cheap nuts since they weigh the same. I don't think McGard carries the smaller open end nuts which are required since I have ARP studs and have limited socket space with my Kosei wheels.

As for the TS, thats the info I got from the link above.
Old Jul 21, 2011, 08:29 AM
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ours are 20 grams each, I just weighed them (and that was one coated in antiseize and dirt hee he)...

they are aircraft grade Ti... we dont heat them up to give them that flame look.

the purpose of our lugs WAS NOT for looks, it was to be run on an extended stud and be able to be used multiple times without being stripped internally or externally (aka road race use)

the drop about 2 lbs total over stock lugs (I think is the figure)

we could do aluminum (which would be lighter but weaker) and we could do steel (heavier and ugly)... but we dont-

form follows function.

Cheers

CB

CB
Old Jul 21, 2011, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by CBRD
ours are 20 grams each, I just weighed them (and that was one coated in antiseize and dirt hee he)...

they are aircraft grade Ti... we dont heat them up to give them that flame look.

the purpose of our lugs WAS NOT for looks, it was to be run on an extended stud and be able to be used multiple times without being stripped internally or externally (aka road race use)

the drop about 2 lbs total over stock lugs (I think is the figure)

we could do aluminum (which would be lighter but weaker) and we could do steel (heavier and ugly)... but we dont-

form follows function.

Cheers

CB

CB
Thanks!

20 grams = 0.705 oz
times 20 lugs =14.11 oz
Total weight = .88 lbs
Savings = 1.87 lbs over factory OEM nuts (.476 lb each wheel).

0.155 lb total difference between the cheaper open steel nuts (.04 lb each wheel)

Last edited by rodent; Jul 21, 2011 at 09:24 AM.
Old Jul 21, 2011, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by rodent
Don't really care about looks just posting the weights I found.


I was only sharing the info I found and as mentioned earlier, I'm keeping my cheap nuts since they weigh the same. I don't think McGard carries the smaller open end nuts which are required since I have ARP studs and have limited socket space with my Kosei wheels.

As for the TS, thats the info I got from the link above.
They actually do and are the nuts I use, similar to the ones above labelled at 1.24 and 0.86 oz respectively. It sucks because they're only chrome and I hate chrome nuts. I run ARPs on my POS as well.
Old Jul 21, 2011, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Stormin Norman
They actually do and are the nuts I use, similar to the ones above labelled at 1.24 and 0.86 oz respectively. It sucks because they're only chrome and I hate chrome nuts. I run ARPs on my POS as well.
Good to know. I wasn't sure who makes the lighter steel nuts.
Old Jul 21, 2011, 10:44 AM
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Very cool read!
Old Jul 21, 2011, 07:03 PM
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no info on how chromoly lugnuts compare with these others?
Old Jul 21, 2011, 07:27 PM
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What is with the fascination of cutting minimal weight at a point that is both under the cog and close to the cor? I can understand the need for stronger material...but cutting 1.8 lbs on an EVO isn't going to net any noticeable gains.
Old Jul 21, 2011, 07:40 PM
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Hope you got'em in stock...just ordered a set!


Originally Posted by CBRD
ours are 20 grams each, I just weighed them (and that was one coated in antiseize and dirt hee he)...

they are aircraft grade Ti... we dont heat them up to give them that flame look.

the purpose of our lugs WAS NOT for looks, it was to be run on an extended stud and be able to be used multiple times without being stripped internally or externally (aka road race use)

the drop about 2 lbs total over stock lugs (I think is the figure)

we could do aluminum (which would be lighter but weaker) and we could do steel (heavier and ugly)... but we dont-

form follows function.

Cheers

CB

CB


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