MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

More info on the rings. You have to run them
Your wheels are hub piloted & are designed to run on the hub vs the wheel studs. You stand the chance of wallowing out the stud holes in the wheels.
Add some lube to alum rings and drop them into the wheel (Keeps them from locking up)
More than likely you will need this size 73mm to 67.1mm (check it w/your wheel supplier)

Here's a pic of my suspension fully stroked during the tire clearancing. If you cant do this, then your wheel/tire combo doesnt fit.

wasFWDnowAWD

iTrader: (2)

awesome info fellas.

@minus previous: how did you go about doing your rearbumper bolt? as im sure with it full stroked like that it had to have hit. yea i dont want my paint cracking from rolling, but i also dont want my fender to buckle or crack from use and from a full stroke like that on the highway 4 deep. but yes more info on the bumper bolt. and about how much of an angle is your fender lip rolled to?

WRC-LVR

iTrader: (1)

Ludikraut.....true the EVO is heavier. However my intent was only to get people to think about things like release, torque, modulation ability. As an aid to improving your driving and driving style, all in search of better times.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Well the lip was originally 90 degrees (parallel to ground) I would say mine is at 20 degrees. It is certainly not fully rolled flat. It really depends on your wheel off-set (Did I read correctly your wheel is +34? If so, that will help in not having to perform so much fender work)

Also, the bumper bolt was removed & relocated further to the rear. Now, I had the work done by a suspension tuner & they used a large rivet to fasten. I think a nut & bolt w/ washer could have used as well.

Dont get me wrong, my set-up to fit the 275's required a serious fender pull which is done by a small "Porta-Pwr =(

bhmax

iTrader: (2)

I'll be doing some brake work soon myself. Also curious about the duplicolor engine enamel. I've used specific brake caliper paint in the past, brush on and spray, with good results. Thinking about flat black engine enamel, new sticker and clear on top. I liked the Porterfield r4-s pads on my last car(street use only). Good initial bite that I like. Was also thinking about the stoptech pads since they're cheaper. I had them on a car in the past, but sold it very soon after I put them on so I didn't get a good feel for them.

golgo13

iTrader: (134)

OP:

So before I delve into the meat of your post and try to help you, I have a much more important question that really has to preclude a huge list of performance parts.

Did you have any track time before picking up the evo?

wasFWDnowAWD

iTrader: (2)

@minusprevious: okay, so im very similair to you. mine are about 15-20 degrees rolled. but not pulled. yes ive got +34 ce28s. but i've heard that the clearance in the front with the calipers is extremely close. so i'm looking at either a 3mm or 5mm spacer to get someroom & to get my wheels and tire to sit more flush with the fender. that in combination with 265 tire. i'm hoping i dont need to roll it any more than it already is. i would rather have a little bit of wheel gap and the wheel sitting flush than slamming my car with sunken wheels.

wasFWDnowAWD

iTrader: (2)

@bhmax: thanks for you info on brake pads. and i'm still trying to figure out if the duplicolor engine enamel can hold up to braking. i want WHITE! and local oreilly's and autozone dont carry brake specific white paint

wasFWDnowAWD

iTrader: (2)

@golgo13: no track time prior. unless you want to count hours upon hours of granturismo with a standard controller tracktime. lol. but in all seriousness, no track time. i'm sure i've mentioned in my OP that i'm not looking to be the fastest or getting the best of the best. i just want something proven to be good and not garbage. something so i can begin taking it to the track and get practice. i wont be pushing it 100% as i'm inexperienced and don't wanna increase everyone elses insurance. and its more of a daily driver than track car. its just time to replace worn rotors and replace the autozone pads and old brake fluid for new stuff. and making the most out of my new wheels and suspension.

golgo13

iTrader: (134)

I would suggest you look into tires first. Track time is really what you need. Slowly start upgrading parts as you begin to feel that your car is holding you back. The stock evo is way more car than most people can handle at speed, you'd be surprised.

Getting into a car that's way beyond your skill level and then attempting to push its limits is not really a great idea.

It takes an excellent driver to be able to recover a car that starts to get away from them when things go awry. You're not going to know how the car is going to behave with those parts on it until it's too late.

In the end, it's your time and money so do whatever you want.

Just don't say you didn't hear someone say, "Seat time is king" at least once.

golgo13

iTrader: (134)

Also: Gran Turismo isn't seat time.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

No offense, but I thought you were going to provide some help. You noted you were going to delve into the meat of the post.

I see no beef here, just criticism

golgo13

iTrader: (134)

I think my post came out wrong. I don't want to sound like I'm some sort of expert, because I'm not. I'm still learning everyday, heck I still ask questions that I've heard the answers to more than once. I expect some of my information to unintentionally be wrong and get corrected by the community. That keeps me honest and up to speed with the latest info.

I can't help it if my advice seems like criticism. Sometimes the ones that care, give the toughest advice.

Look, if the guy wants to blow a bunch of money on parts before he's ready - I'm all for it. AFAIK, seat time is the most important thing you can do with your evo.

The Gran Turismo comment wasn't a flame or criticism, just a little ribbing.

OP first, read this:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ct-thread.html

For MinusPrevious:

The cone killers can give you better advice on setting up your car for Auto-x than I can, since I mostly run on the track. There is quite a bit of overlap in performance parts and theory, however. I won't be commenting on the cosmetic stuff, that's always taste and mine is rather boring.

Tires. You've already got the wheels, so you might as well look into some rubber. Lots of people swear by Hankook RS3 tires but the BMW guys I know in BMWCCA GG chapter swear by Nitto NT01 and Toyo RA1 for multipurpose DD/Track tires. These are guys that race in serious competitive events, so I take their advice pretty seriously. Volk CE28 18x9.5 +34 should not require a 10mm spacer to clear the caliper. Your rear fenders are rolled already, so you might as well stuff something in there. You may want to consider something around ~275/35/18. Also, send a PM to Smike on here, he's got a sh*t load of wheel, brake and suspension knowledge and is always willing to help out. Dunlop Direzza Star Spec Z1s aren't bad, that's what I'm running right now. I'll be getting NT01s in a different size next season, my 255/40/17 Z1s roll over pretty easy and chunk at hot operating temps between 38-40 psi. You will want to run your tires (these are psi ratings when cold) at 32 front and 36 rear for HPDE and 39 front and 39 rear for street use. Your mileage may vary, so you'll have to monitor and adjust your pressure when at the event.

Get some pads. Since you want to drive on the street, you will need to pay very close attention to the temperature range of the pads. To be safe, you want pads that will bite when cold so your 3k lbs will actually stop when you want it to. That means you will have to stay away from those aggressive race pads you thought would be perfect, since more is always better, right? Look into Performance Friction, EBC and Racing Brake. Those are the only three I trust, personally.

Upgrading the fluid isn't a bad idea, but if your brakes aren't heating up enough (do you have an IR thermometer?), then that super fancy ENDLESS or Motul RBF660 fluid is just money you're pissing down the drain. Match up your pads to your fluid. Match your pads to your skill level and needs. Check your temps after each session while at the event and then adjust accordingly.

Try running the car with your stock suspension. Those KYBs aren't horrible, there is a reason they were put on the evo (someone's going to mention cost, watch). Step up to a gently used set of MR bilsteins and get some springs for them. Those coilovers are going to rattle your teeth out of your head when ran on the street. Keep them boxed up until you feel your car is holding you back. You can adjust your stock suspension to give yourself some mild camber, too. That sh*t costs nothing. Try setting your stock fronts to -2 bolt selection and -1.5 rear. That should help you with corner rotation and entry. I'm not a huge fan of wheel toe, as I think it just wastes tires.

Stainless Steel brake lines are added safety and insurance. I say get them, more safety is never a bad thing.

To close, I still say just showing up with a stock evo and a helmet is the best mod you can do for your car.

Sorry, I got for a moment there...

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

The OP already stated that his stock suspension is shot. Can't really argue about the choice of Ohlins as a replacement. As long as he stays away from a large rear sway bar, the car should be safe enough to learn on.

l8r)

golgo13

iTrader: (134)

I must have missed that.

I think a great starting point would be some MR bilsteins and springs, but the OP already has the coilovers. Might as well throw them on and see how they feel.