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How do I stop tripodding/3 wheeling at autox?

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Old Aug 29, 2011, 10:05 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by chu
I find it funny that some of the advice is for the OP is add more parts as a fix.
Im all ears Chu.

if you have a better idea/solution i would love to hear it!

thanks man!
Old Aug 29, 2011, 10:58 AM
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Old Aug 29, 2011, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by luckybull
Im all ears Chu.

if you have a better idea/solution i would love to hear it!

thanks man!
I already gave my advice. I honestly think the rear sway bar is too stiff, and causing the inside tire to lift. I had the same issues before, when I ran a Robispec 27mm in the softest setting, with a spring and shock combo. When I swapped to the Paul Gerrard Ohlins, the car was uncontrollably loose, even national level drivers couldn't handle my car. Took out the sway bar, and all was good again.

What has been said in prior post needs some attention. Sway bars are used too often in this forum as a patch fix for certain handling characteristics...like car understeers, add sway. Take the sway bar out, find out your spring rate, and use the dampenign/rebound to get the car handling down. Sway bars should be added later to balance the setup, not make or break the break the setup. ITs not as a costly repair as adding the TRE rear diff, imo. So why not try it?
Old Aug 29, 2011, 11:21 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by chu
I already gave my advice. I honestly think the rear sway bar is too stiff, and causing the inside tire to lift. I had the same issues before, when I ran a Robispec 27mm in the softest setting, with a spring and shock combo. When I swapped to the Paul Gerrard Ohlins, the car was uncontrollably loose, even national level drivers couldn't handle my car. Took out the sway bar, and all was good again.

What has been said in prior post needs some attention. Sway bars are used too often in this forum as a patch fix for certain handling characteristics...like car understeers, add sway. Take the sway bar out, find out your spring rate, and use the dampenign/rebound to get the car handling down. Sway bars should be added later to balance the setup, not make or break the break the setup. ITs not as a costly repair as adding the TRE rear diff, imo. So why not try it?

gotcha.
i dont know what my current spring rates are, but i know if i go too stiff it will take the dd comfort out of the car.
I know i am asking a lot when i want a car that doesnt rattle your kidneys and teeth loose, but still performs well. i could go up in spring rates, but like i said, i want it to still ride decent. maybe i could turn down the dampening when dd'ing to get it to ride a bit smoother?
then removing the sway or atleast loosening as far as it goes wouldnt be a big deal. i am running the robi bar. on sat i ran the bar on the 3rd stiffest setting. on sunday i changed it to the 2nd stiffest, and it seemed to help, but required a LOT of tire pressure to get the rear to follow me and the fronts not to roll over. i was at 41psi in front and 43psi in the rear and the front was still rolling over a bit!

what rates would you recommend?
Old Aug 29, 2011, 11:27 AM
  #50  
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I also dd my car, and have 130k to prove it. I'm running 10k/12k, with tire pressure around 36/34 on the street. I set the shocks to full soft when driving around, and adjust accordingly when autox'ing or doing hdpe. Something around 10k/10k would be the least I would do for a good street/track balance. If you have the stock Ohlins rats, they're not that high.
Old Aug 29, 2011, 11:41 AM
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Do your springs have any markings on them? I would never, ever buy a suspension without knowing the spring rates.

There's nothing magical working here, it's information needed to help solve your issue. Otherwise you end up asking a forum full of strangers for advice who can't really help you anyway since they don't have all the information.

Also, I agree with chu....as I said before, the 27mm rear bar is too big. But it's difficult to give you any real advice without knowing exactly what you have.

What are your alignment specs?

- drew
Old Aug 29, 2011, 03:13 PM
  #52  
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Alignment is -3 up front. -2 rear.
zero toe in front
rear tow is 1/32nd or something like that. whatever the factory recommends on the minimum level. cant remember exactly. can find the spec sheet.
Old Oct 23, 2013, 01:35 PM
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any update on this?
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