golgo13

iTrader: (134)

Blanks > Slotted > Drilled

DBA is high quality without the high price. That's currently what I'm running on my track evo.

1UpMoto

iTrader: (14)

ive always used rotor pros, $240 shipped for all 4 corners drilled and slotted.

PatricksEvilEvo

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the imput. I'll probably go with slotted then. I dont track but stopping from 100+ with the stock rotors isnt the greatest brake fade is terrible the calipers are just too big way too much pad surface to use solid rotors. The set of zinc on ebay seem like the best bang for the buck

chu

iTrader: (72)

Rotors dont cause don't brake fade my friend. You're blaming the wrong thing. Rotor venting design can help control temperatures, and resist brake fade, but it has more to do with pads and fluids. If you're daily driving on the street, and braking from 100+ enough to build that much heat to fade yours brakes, which I have doubts about, then you need to look into better pads. I know guys that run stock rotors on the track without your issues.

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

Wat!

If you don't want brake fade then don't let Chu ride in your car. Ask me how I know...

chu

iTrader: (72)

I don't even know you dawg!

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

don't make me post the video foo!

chu

iTrader: (72)

Damn, there's footage?

grillpt

iTrader: (24)

Chu, doesn't need brakes. He just goes flat-out!


OP, you got it all wrong. Better pads, better fluid, Papa Johns!

chu

iTrader: (72)

Smike

iTrader: (8)

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ct-thread.html

Brake pads are what is the issue here.

OP - my thread is still relevant to your interest.

I would NOT get cheap ebay rotors. Their metal quality sucks. Get the Premium Centrics from vendors like MAP.

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

I ended up cheaping out and bought the non-centric versions of the oem blank rotors. They get the job done but Im sure the vibration issues Im starting to notice braking at high speeds on the track are due to the cheapo rotors. Its only very minor at this point and these rotors have worked flawlessly otherwise for 2 seasons of autox and some track events so I feel they have had their moneys worth, for me.

For the posts above talking about brake fade. stock calipers and oem sized rotors will work just fine for 90% of EVO owners that take their cars out to a hpde event. The deciding factor on how well they will perform is your selection of brake pads and fluid. If you guys are under 350 awhp and have zero to mild weight reduction, on street tires, I recommend carbotech xp8s with a good flush of brembo lcf 600 plus racing brake fluid. Having tried various fluids, for the price and performance this fluid cant be beat imo.


I dont hear many guys on here using this fluid, thats why I wanted to test it out. Its about similar in price to motul and has MUCH less compressibility. I seem to be the only guy on here who is dissatisfied with motul, but I do hear similar complaints as me (motul fluid becoming very compressible as it heats up)with various porsche club guys at the track, fwiw.

From my understanding fluid fade is different than its property of being compressible. The spongy pedal feel mid day after a few hot laps the pedal may be softer and have more travel, yet still braking fine, just requiring more travel. I guess from reading Motul has this tendency and it may not be air,moisture or fluid fade, just a property of the fluid's compressibilty. After the temps go down you may notice the pedal being firm again, that is until it heats up again..



**So this is what I been researching and reading up on. And so far has made sense from my own testing. Im not an expert and am just posting results from different setups to try and add to the knowledge pool on here. I really do hope someone could verify my info that knows a little more than me as I hope my understanding of this isnt flawed. Im always learning and dont like to post false info.