whitevo88

i just bought a evo 8 full built

here are the parts

-2.0 block

-Eagle H-Beam rods

-CP pistons.

-Balance shaft eliminator kit

-Bottom end blueprinted and balanced.

-Micropolished crank

-JUN 272 Cams.

-GT35R Turbo Kit

-Tial 38mm wastegate

-supertech +1mm valves, Bronze guides and locks

-Crower Ti Springs and Retainers

-ARP Head Studs, Rod Bolts

-AEM True Time Cam Gears (Clear Cover)

-HKS DLI II Ignition

-Equal Length Header into full 3" Exhaust with Resonated Test Pipe

-SMC Methanol Injection

-AEM EMS

-1000cc Injectors and Walboro 255 Fuel Pump

-Greddy Front Mount Intercooler, Dejon Tool 2.5" Upper Intercooler Pipe

-K&N Air Filter with 4" Intake Pipe

-Greddy Oil Catch Can

-AMS front motor mount

Transmission:

-TRE Racing Transmission

-Shep trans stage 3 transfer case with quaiffe lsd

-ACT XTSS clutch

-Stainless Steel Clutch Line

-Speed Source Solid Shifter Bushings

-Odyssey Lightweight Battery

-Hotchkis Springs

-Front Rotors Slotted and Drilled

im re doing the suspension for time attack racing and im coming from an evo x so the 8's are new to me and any and all input would be helpful. im also going to be doing drag racing as well but im more focused on time attack so with doing the suspension what should i be looking to do to protect the drive train parts and everything else. car has 515whp on pump and close to 600 on meth. thanks in advance

igo4bmx

iTrader: (17)

depends how low your car is.

blackevolution8

iTrader: (54)

Whate are you plans with time attack? To be competative? Evo suspension hardly allows for any lowering before the geometry is shot. A roll center kit would help this.

chu

iTrader: (72)

Suspensions must be observed as a total package, not like a bolt-on power mod that gets better and better each time. Everything has to be considered for the overall handling of the car. The Whiteline kit is not necessary if the car is not dumped for that hellaflushness. If you're seriously building a competitive car, you will need to read the rules of that organization is see what mods are allowed. Don't go wild with a build to find out you belong in a class running against you're not ready for.

whitevo88

more for fun and when ever their is a open time attack event i can make. Im a father of 2 little boys so time for myself is far and few but i do make it a point to go to the strip as much as i can but my real love is for time attack. its lowered now and seems to handle fine but not anywhere near what i need. im not going for the lower the better just over best handling. my budget is around 1500 all said and done so figure a grand on the coilovers and the rest for the supporting parts.

chu

iTrader: (72)

Sounds like this will be more for fun than to be competitive, so you're not really building to any rules. From what I've learned, the Whiteline kits only adds to handling, even on a car at stock ride height. I have Ohlins on my car set at the highest it will allow, and still benefited form the addition of the kit. As far as your budget though, $1500 isn't a lot for what you want to do. You probably heard this tons of times already, but the Bilstein/GT Worx combo will be my recommendation at this point. Add camber plates, possibly caster for the fornt, and pillow mounts on the rear. Get the Energy Suspension master bushing kit, and replace the trailing arm, front lower control arm, and sway bar bushings. This with the Whiteline kit will be an awesome "limited track" handling package. This should at least stay within your budget until you're faster, and the grow beyond the limitations of the package. One point though, no matter what you do, your ultimate limitation is still mechnical grip...so budget carefully for tires!

Boltz.

iTrader: (42)

Do you need the kit? No.

It helps, but doesn't make a huge difference.

Interesting that you mention you are more for time attack, but you list no mods that actually make the car turn better.

I recommend putting on a hotchkis rear sway bar and saving for a set of Ohlins from Chad @ CBRD.

03whitegsr

iTrader: (8)

The Whiteline kit is pretty mellow on effect. It only adds about 5/16" of an inch to the balljoint height. Compare that to some of the "balljoint extender" kits out there for other cars where it adds a 1.5" to the balljoint and it's pretty obvious it's not that signifigant of a change.

I wish somebody would come out with a balljoint extender kit that got it up around the 1.5" range and allowed bumpsteer adjustment...

chu

iTrader: (72)

I respectfully disagree.

CBRD

iTrader: (60)

It depends on rideheight and so forth for how much you feel it.

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

Looks like a typical backwards approach (I'm guilty of it too) to road racing. Power first, everything else second. Some thoughts:

First of all, if you don't already have track experience (and even if you do), whatever else you do, detune your power for your first couple of track days. 20-23 psi boost max. Even better if you can do your first track day on all-season or similar crappy tires. This will not only teach you what to expect from your car more safely, it will also allow you see how things hold up under extended abuse.

Secondly, I didn't see any mention of the two most critical areas of road racing - tires and BRAKES. Need to budget and think about these two before suspension mods. You'll want better brake fluid, SS brake lines and ditch the drilled/slotted rotors.

As to suspension/handling mods, here's a few to think about:

- rear diff - this is THE #1 handling improvement you can make to your otherwise stock(ish) Evo, IMO. It certainly was on mine.
- Flip the camber bolt up front to get an extra degree of camber, bias slop to max camber. Alignment, Set rear camber to about 1/2 front camber and 0 toe. Tires for your environment (If you spend 8 months a year with rain, maybe the tire should match that )
- Rear trailing arm bushings and rear bumpsteer correction kit. This will help braking stability. A lot less tail wagging under heavy braking on my '03.
- Swift Spec-R Springs/stock struts if you're on a budget - Hotchkis won't cut it. Good coilovers ($2-3K) if you've got some wiggle room budget-wise
- front roll center adjustment kit, Perrin PSRS
- Larger front sway, you will probably not need to ugrade the rear sway if you get the upgraded rear diff
- Front LSD

l8r)

golgo13

iTrader: (134)

I think it's hilarious that the OP posted this MASSIVE mod list that has almost no handling mods and then asked about a roll center adjustment kit.



OP: If your ride height is lower than stock, there is a pretty good chance your geometry has changed and would stand to benefit from a roll center kit.

-Golgs

SmurfZilla

iTrader: (33)

I was confused by that as well. All power mods and nothing really about suspension. I had to double check the title. LOL.

deeman101

iTrader: (34)

I totally went forwards! Only thing left to be addressed on my car is the stock power.

+1. Big difference will be noted when your car sees more than 1inch of lowering. On my hotchkis springs it made a huge difference to turn in roll. Made the car more eager to turn in with a tendency to oversteer (the origin of my tail happy evo ). Although I did a better alignment which probably contributed a lot too.

I was road racing this summer on my hotchkis springs/stock bilsteins/stock roll bar/whiteline RCA and rear toe bushing setup and the car performed well, I liked it. Except in big sweepers where the low spring rate really hurt me. So if you run swift springs you will definitely enjoy your car.

EDIT: This is what my car looked like on a fast sweeper with the hotchkis springs. No amount of roll center adjuster will over come the soft springs!

meckert

iTrader: (11)

Sounds like you still need to determine if you need the roll kit.. or not. A basic way to make this determination is to look at the lower a-arms with the car on the ground. If the arms are slanted slightly downwards towards the tires from their mouning point--then you should be ok. Like this / \, not to this extreme but you get the idea.
If the opposite is true-- ie, the arms are slanting from their mounts upwards toward the tires then you would benefit from the roll kit as you would be experiencing bump steer. If the arms are basically parallel to the ground you should be ok, but then again depending on other geometry you may benefit from the kit.( this would be a neutrol position, or the lowest the car should be taken without a bumpsteer kit installed).
So in a nut shell, if the cars too low you need the kit, if parallel your ok, and if stock ride height you wont need it either. As stated earlier, the Evo geometry is very close to rt on at stock, so even taking it down a little 3/4-1" could put you in a position to need the kit. This is all a VERY basic discription/explaination, but it works.