chad99evo

iTrader: (24)

I installed the energy suspension master bushing set on my car yesterday, but i have yet to get the front LCA back in.

I can get the rearmost part in, but the front ihavent got to pop in yet.... its lined up and partially in there, i think i just need somebody with some muscle to help me out(im sick, not alot of strength, just laugh and get it out of the way if you must) PLUSi need somebody to either push the control arm in while the spindle is positioned out of the way or vise versa.

The front LCA bushings are identical and uniform per side, with no variations in bushing size etc per side or per half of bushing(except the big one goes in the rear, 2 smaller ones up front) i made sure the serrated sleeve is in the most forward bushing on the LCA on each side.

anybody else had issues getting the front LCA's in with this kit or have any helpful strategic tips to get them in?

thanks,
chad

chad99evo

iTrader: (24)

in fact im quite sure i just need somebody to muscle this in as it is a very tight fit but i didnt think it would hurt to ask of any other known strategy...that there could be any? lol

chu

iTrader: (72)

Tap the LCA in with a hammer. It has to fit tightly so that there is no movement, and no clunking in return. A few light taps works.

RUDEBOY77

iTrader: (5)

What was your method to get the large bushing into the arm? It's kicking my a$$ right now.

chad99evo

iTrader: (24)

okay so its exactly what i thought.......


remove the spindle from the cv axle.(no weight can be bearing down on it, and if you dont remove it, you might have to pop the axle back in...like somebody me lol)...if you dont know how:

take pliers and carefully remove cotter pin.
use a 1 1/4 in and impact spin off the large nut.
loosen and remove the bolts from the shock(2) and the balljoint. then pull, some tapping with a rubber mallet may be necessary.

The arm.

holding the arm level, parallel to ground, insert the rear most part first. it will be a little tight, but not nearly as bad as the front most part. ***dont thread the long bolt into it until the front bushing is in the subframe.

then get the front bushing started..... place a jack underneath the arm on the balljoint, to raise it up if/when necessary(this will help)

some very firm pushing and some nice good hits with the hammer and it will eventually go in there.

thread the front most bushing first, then, with some moving of the arm(level or up probably,) get the long bolt inserted. with more tapping and moving you will get it.

these 2 bolts can be torqued if you like, or if you prefer you can wait till the spindle is attached

re-assemble by placing spindle onto balljoint first, lining up the recessed notch with the bolt, then snug the bolt on, torque it later.

next move the spindle and the axle until it fits through the hole, we lined up the shock with this as well at the same time and fed the bolts through.(bolt with arrow goes on top, arrow out for more negative camber, arrow in for less negative, or about -1')

last things are snug everything up, put a jack underneath the balljoint, torque everything(specs) then spin the 1 1/4 in nut onto the axle, and snug it up till two adjacent holes line up for the cotter pin

chad99evo

iTrader: (24)

fyi, after my PITA dealing with NTB with dingus and dip**** the alignment boys who tried to joyride my valet mode evo set at 2500rpm...LOL, it drives great. my bushings may have been pretty well worn from all the dirt the car has seen before, but it drives tight now and i like it with the stock suspension too

mmm its so tight and good, i could be in it all night long

its only seeing ptp from now on. no more idiot ntb bs.