Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Not as much fluid is pulled back as is pushed out. Somewhere on the order of 10:1 times as much fluid goes out as comes back in.

Ive done this for probably more than 5 years and it is great for flushing fluid out and quickly but has a bit of a draw back. When you release the pedal a small amount of air seems to always suck back in through the threads. For flushing it doesn't matter, but I always go back and do a single pump and hold with a buddy for the last bleed.

I also use this method on the clutch but dont need a buddy for the last pump since the clutch holds itself down.

sna08

iTrader: (3)

Dallas j, have you tried using Teflon tape or brake grease on thread to keep air out as you close?

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

No cause usually teflon tape works once then its already broken down. Id think the best way to bleed alone would be a cap with the ability to pressurize the reservoir. Then with the same tube method so you can see the bubbles, crack each line till its all clear.

Something like that is on my wishlist for the garage, but for now my method is cheap and easy enough to grab the GF or neighbor or who ever to pump it once for me.

sna08

iTrader: (3)

After about a week dealing with it I got around to making me A power bleeder. Bought it at home depot and real easy to make. I just used the original cap since the dealer wanted $17 for it. Modified it a little so that I can cap it off.

sna08

iTrader: (3)

Here's the link to the site I mainly used though there are many others.
http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed...eder/index.htm

evane

iTrader: (13)

You guys mention using teflon tape or grease around the fitting threads to stop air from entering the line but if air can enter why can't the brake fluid escape?

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Along the same lines as how a vacuum generator works. The bleeder has a big step before the bleed hole and around that step flow is effectively zero and pretty high right around the exit. This can generate a vacuum as that stagnant fluid gets pulled into the stream causing air to get pulled in with the thread. My description is a little crude, but its late and I'm tired

I know this thread is old, but my graduate adviser was having issues bleeding the brakes on his old bug (corvair swap'd) and this is what we theorized. He fixed the problem with some anti-seize on the threads to prevent air sucking in and that finally got rid of the spongy feel of his non-power assisted brakes.